Buying my son a '05...

U

Uncle Meat

Banned
Jun 13, 2002
0
1
0
Prattville, Alabama
#1
Okay... it's pretty much a "done deal" and it looks like my son will be the proud owner of a '05 redfire V6 Stang as his first car. It currently has 5300 miles on the odo and plenty of warranty left. It's not quite a "stripped" model, it does have cruise control, power drivers seat, and premium wheels. (God I HATE those rims! Why couldn't it have come with the bullet style?)

Wondering if there's anything specific problem-wise or troublesome areas I need to look for on the S197 platform or the 4.0 V6? I've read through the TSB's (SSM's) and will check for those documented problems... but is there any other areas I need to pay special attention to?

Thanks!

U.M.
 
#2
I'd love to have had something like that for my first car. Just jealous. The biggest problem I know of is with the Shaker 500. CDs skip, jam, etc.
I have had no other problems with my 2005. (I'm 53 and my first car was a used 1965 Mustang 2 + 2 with 65,000 miles. I wish I still had it.)
I hope your son realizes how lucky he is. Good luck also with insurance. It's got to be a bear. My daughter at age 23 and no tickets, accidents, etc. got rid of her Mustang because of insurance costs. (She pays her own bills.)
 
#3
Uncle Meat said:
... but is there any other areas I need to pay special attention to?

Thanks!

U.M.
Click to expand...
refer to this post :D

rygenstormlocke said:
I put this thread up on another site and it was well received, so I thought I would put it up here as well.

The topic comes up on what it takes to get a 4.0L into the performance of some V8 cars at the track. Mid 13’s with the potential to later go to 12’s is my baseline here.

After learning from my mistakes and others mistakes, I think I have come up with a cost effective list of modifications to get there. Please respond with any corrections/inclusions.

Engine

• Power adder
o Nitrous Race Setup w/Intake, Tune & Install: $2000.00
o Turbo Setup w/Intercooler, Tune & Install: $6000.00
o SC Setup w/Intercooler, Tune & Install: $5000.00

Suspension

• LCA’s: $130
• UCA’s: $100
• Take off GT tire/wheel package (shipped): $450

Drivetrain

• LSD & gears w/Install: $700

Exhaust

• Single Bolt on Muffler: $300

Summary

• 13 second Nitrous Rig on streets: $3680.00
• 13 second Turbo Rig on streets: $7680.00
• 13 second SC Rig on streets: $6680.00


Now, keep in mind that this is on street tires and assumes you have the base model V6. Those of you with the pony package can save $450 on these packages. Also keep in mind you will need a Snell 2005 Helmet@$250 for track events.

Not all of these packages are created equal, with equal potential to 12’s and for some of you nuts, 11’s. But the purpose of this thread is to provide you a cheat sheet of what it will take to reach V8 track performance, and I have seen a lot of perceived “fast” V8’s at the track run low 13’s to mid 14’s.

Some people may look at this list and want to trade in for a GT. LOL. But I wanted to show that now that people are getting these 4.0’s for a good price used or new, 13-20K, that an investment of 3-7K turns theses cars into real monsters!!! Also keep in mind that these poweradder kits come with tunes, and for those of you that want to do the install yourself and use the canned tunes, subtract $1K from them.

So please provide any input and thoughts. I am working on an optional section of this cheat sheet that includes DS w/loop, shifters, more suspension goodies, tuning costs for upping the boost, places to get engines (LOL), DR’s, etc. But that will take a bit.
Click to expand...


:lol: :rlaugh: i know thats not what you wanted, but i had to throw it in there for you. :p
 
#6
UNCLE MEAT! Nice to see you come this way from the "Land of Make Believe". Nice choice on the Stang. It may not be da 'Bra, Dad, but it is a Stang. So he is creaping out of his comfort zone in the sky to drive with all the nuts and berrys. ALRIGHT!!!

No concerns mechanically UM. As for redesigns it is pretty darn clean considering.

My first car was a 1970 Ford Maverick with an inline 6. I hope you school him in the fundamentals. WOOT!

Good Job Dad!

~J~
 
#7
stanmckinney said:
I'd love to have had something like that for my first car. Just jealous. The biggest problem I know of is with the Shaker 500. CDs skip, jam, etc.
I have had no other problems with my 2005. (I'm 53 and my first car was a used 1965 Mustang 2 + 2 with 65,000 miles. I wish I still had it.)
I hope your son realizes how lucky he is. Good luck also with insurance. It's got to be a bear. My daughter at age 23 and no tickets, accidents, etc. got rid of her Mustang because of insurance costs. (She pays her own bills.)
Click to expand...
The one we're looking at has the basic AM/FM single disc player, not the Shaker system so that's not going to be a problem. As for insurance it's pretty cheap... around $250 for 6 months liability only. I'm paying cash for the car and my son gets some good discounts for being an honor student and having completed both drivers education and State Farms' youth driver program.

U.M.
 
#9
Congrats!

I would check the gas tank and drive shaft TSB. Especially the gas tank, cause if you go duals without checking it, you may find yourself cutting out pipe, unbolting, etc so Ford can fix it.

Here is the most thorough list I could find on TSB's for this car. Don't be alarmed when you read it, just save it in case you run into any of these.

http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Articles/S197-Technical-Service-Bulletins-060923.html EDIT: There is one here at Stangnet, link updated.

The Redfire is a great color! Put some black bullits on it and a duck tail spoiler! Oh, and they are sluggish from the factory thanks to fords throttle management system. Get a good CAI/Tune and a after market muffler and you will be shocked its a six!!!

Here is a list of CAI/Tune's out there that are considered the best for the 4.0.

• Doug/Bamachips: XCAL2 and your choice of TI or C&L CAI. (When I switched to his tune for my old TI, it shaved off 3/10ths on my time, his daily driver is an auto as well, though I think he has several test mules/test customer cars at his disposal)
• Evolution: XCAL2 and C&L (lot of guys use them, they have a good rep, actually met them at FFW, good bunch of guys)
• AZDynoChip: XCAL2 and ? (don't know if they do the internet thing, they will tune any CAI and produce some of the highest dyno numbers)
• Lidio/Alternative Auto: XCAL2 and CAI (I did some research and several shops referred me to him for Automatics, his personal daily driver is an auto)
• Brenspeed: XCAL2 and C&L (another highly reputable shop)
• Justin/VMP Tuning: XCAL2 and ? (Considered one of the top dogs for the V6 stang community and collaborates with Doug on occasion to my knowledge, he’s also tested more CAI’s on the same dyno session than anyone I’ve seen so far, read about it here: http://www.v6power.net/vb/showthread.php?t=25551 )

Stick with any of the above and you will be fine.
 
#13
my first car as well was an 05 new v6 (some reason it had 170 miles on it) 23655 on sticker...17 with 1.9 for 60

i got abs and side airbags..compare that to any other car for under 20. They'll weigh half as much and have front wheel drive, and not have side airbags, not be cool, and abs will be an option also.

My dad also figured that if i were to go out and buy some used car, it would break and he'd have to drop thousands on new stuff for it (transmission, etc). Also insurance isnt bad at all. They get you with the GT though

Good luck with the car..your son will love it

(make sure he keeps it clean)
 
#14
Charcoal interior? Thats what my 05 Redfire V6 has, along with GT bumpers, GT dual exhaust, GT premium wheels.

I love mine, the only other Stang I would rather have right now is the same car in a vert with the parchment interior, but mine is also paid for and no car payments are a joy.
 
#15
rygenstormlocke said:
I would check the gas tank and drive shaft TSB. Especially the gas tank, cause if you go duals without checking it, you may find yourself cutting out pipe, unbolting, etc so Ford can fix it.
Click to expand...
Since we (or should I say I) may very well be putting an exhaust system on it some day I'll be sure to check this prior. Thanks for the heads up!
rygenstormlocke said:
The Redfire is a great color! Put some black bullits on it and a duck tail spoiler! Oh, and they are sluggish from the factory thanks to fords throttle management system. Get a good CAI/Tune and a after market muffler and you will be shocked its a six!!!
Click to expand...
I love the Redfire myself... In fact the first '03 Cobra that was sold out from under me was a Redfire and I had to settle for Oxford White. Different wheels are a must because I can't stand those premium rims with the knock offs.
rygenstormlocke said:
Here is a list of CAI/Tune's out there that are considered the best for the 4.0.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the recommendations, but I'll probably go with James at RWTD when the time comes. CAI, exhaust system, & a custom tune will probably be the extent of the performance mods this car will ever see. I'm curious though as to why so many recommend a new MAF housing (C&L) on the V6? I'm hard pressed to believe the stock MAF is inadequate with only basic engine mods like CAI & exhaust on a N/A car. I've found that a larger MAF is normally not warranted until the engine mods exceed the stock MAF sensor count.

LIZARDKING said:
Charcoal interior? Thats what my 05 Redfire V6 has, along with GT bumpers, GT dual exhaust, GT premium wheels.

I love mine, the only other Stang I would rather have right now is the same car in a vert with the parchment interior, but mine is also paid for and no car payments are a joy.
Click to expand...
The interior in this V6 is not charcoal grey... It's lighter than that. I have the charcoal grey & parchment interior in my Cobra and I like that combo too!

U.M.
 
#16
I'm hard pressed to believe the stock MAF is inadequate with only basic engine mods like CAI & exhaust on a N/A car. I've found that a larger MAF is normally not warranted until the engine mods exceed the stock MAF sensor count.
Click to expand...

Believe it!
You got a lucky kid there and he sounds like he's got a head on his shoulders but it is a mustang so reinerate to be careful. Its a sound, safe and good looking car with minor problems so you sould be ok.
 
#17
rmays06 said:
Believe it!
Click to expand...
Can you provide and data logs that support this? I just find it hard to believe the stock MAF housing is a restriction. What is the diameter of the stock housing? What about the C&L housing? I can't even find a listing on C&L's website for a 4.0 (V6) specific MAF. Are they using the stock electronics (MAF sensor) in the newer housing? Doesn't that cause a lean condition? Questions, questions, questions... :D

U.M.
 
#18
Uncle Meat said:
Can you provide and data logs that support this? I just find it hard to believe the stock MAF housing is a restriction. What is the diameter of the stock housing? What about the C&L housing? I can't even find a listing on C&L's website for a 4.0 (V6) specific MAF. Are they using the stock electronics (MAF sensor) in the newer housing? Doesn't that cause a lean condition? Questions, questions, questions... :D

U.M.
Click to expand...

With the AFE I was at 188RWHP.
With the TI (includes new MAF tube) I was at 193RWHP.
 
#19
rygenstormlocke said:
With the AFE I was at 188RWHP.
With the TI (includes new MAF tube) I was at 193RWHP.
Click to expand...
What were your respective A/F ratios with each? I've found that many oversized aftermarket MAF housings that utilize the stock sensor only fool the ECM by allowing more air in than what the sensor is calibrated to read. This in turn causes the A/F ratio to lean out and that's where the extra HP gain comes from. Not the best or safest way to make power IMO. You can get the same effect by drilling a couple holes in the intake tract somewhere after the MAF sensor thus letting unmetered air into the engine.

U.M.
 
#20
bamachips.com

Doug is one of the most knowledgable on the 05+ 4.0.

UM, without rehashing what you already know.... The MAF and TB are matched, changing out the MAF and keeping the same TB is pointless. I think a retune with the oem airbox, TB, and MAF is fine. The $300+ for a CAI will only net you a few rwhp. Most dyno shops will also tell you the 4.0 doesnt need dual exhaust.

I recommend you call Doug at bamatunes, he is a great guy who will state the facts and let you draw your own conclusions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Forums
Menu