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Bypassing the clutch safety switch...

  • Thread starter Thread starter 302GTS
  • Start date Start date Jan 6, 2010
3

302GTS

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Apr 20, 2009
481
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Largo, FL
Jan 6, 2010
#1
  • Jan 6, 2010
  • #1
I had an issue with my previous clutch in the car because it grabbed at the very top of the pedal, and I would still push the pedal ALL the way down. I was told this is not good on the pressure plate or the throwout bearing, as it's just overstressing the parts. With the new Mongoose clutch in there, I've been careful to only push the pedal down however much is necessary to get it into gear, which is working nicely.

HOWEVER, the problem came up with the clutch safety switch... The safety switch doesn't engage up top obviously, and still doesn't complete the circuit with the little plunger until the pedal's about halfway in. I understand that it won't cause enough stress to actually damage anything, but I'd still really like to cover all my bases and bypass it. I know what's needed to do so, and I understand that it 'isn't safe since I could start the car and have it roll forward or lurch from stalling', however I always shift into neutral before starting (so I can release the clutch right after startup), my parking brake is ALWAYS applied, and my right foot is always on the brake upon startup.

I was wondering if bypassing the safety switch would somehow cause issues with cruise control? Since cruise can be turned off by just applying the clutch, would bypassing the safety switch cause any issues with that? I use cruise control 90% of the time I drive, and don't want any issues with it.
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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0
Burlington, NJ
Jan 7, 2010
#2
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #2
its bypassed on my focus... and i think it still turns of the cruise... just put a jumper wire across it... the last 3 cars i have bought had all had it by passed... i usually hook them back up because im neurotic about things like that...
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Jan 7, 2010
#3
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #3
Agreed. Cruise has its own switch as I recall. The CSS only has a cranking signal going through it.

If you let someone else drive the car (friend, a shop, etc) you might want to put a note on the steering wheel about the lack of the switch.

I'd leave it in place or consider modifying the switch so it still functions.......
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jan 7, 2010
#4
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #4
Even when u think u ALWAYS apply the brake.....the 1 time u forget could be 1 time u regret. Trust me. I know from experience. Bypass it and put it on a momentary switch perhaps that u have to press or something just to test if its causing any issues. I wouldnt trust myself. I had the same thinking u did...i didnt do it one time and i saw how far the car can literally leap (5-10ft easily). Just not worth the risk IMO.
 
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Jan 7, 2010
#5
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #5
nmcgrawj said:
Even when u think u ALWAYS apply the brake.....the 1 time u forget could be 1 time u regret. Trust me. I know from experience. Bypass it and put it on a momentary switch perhaps that u have to press or something just to test if its causing any issues. I wouldnt trust myself. I had the same thinking u did...i didnt do it one time and i saw how far the car can literally leap (5-10ft easily). Just not worth the risk IMO.
Click to expand...
It's either make damn sure I apply the brakes before starting, and start in neutral like I ALWAYS have for the past 4 years of driving, or I risk damaging yet another clutch. I can't afford it, and IMO I'd rather take the risk of not doing something I normally do by habit.

JT, already thought about that too. My mechanic was the one who suggested it to me in the first place. I'm literally the only one who drives my car minus a shop owner, so friends driving it is definitely not an issue. For shop owners, like you said, a sticky note will work just fine.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jan 7, 2010
#6
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #6
302GTS said:
It's either make damn sure I apply the brakes before starting, and start in neutral like I ALWAYS have for the past 4 years of driving, or I risk damaging yet another clutch. I can't afford it, and IMO I'd rather take the risk of not doing something I normally do by habit.

JT, already thought about that too. My mechanic was the one who suggested it to me in the first place. I'm literally the only one who drives my car minus a shop owner, so friends driving it is definitely not an issue. For shop owners, like you said, a sticky note will work just fine.
Click to expand...

How is bypassing an electrical switch saving a clutch?

And for $5, u can add a switch to replace it that u can manually hit.



Better safe than sorry.
 
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
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18
Largo, FL
Jan 7, 2010
#7
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #7
nmcgrawj said:
How is bypassing an electrical switch saving a clutch?

And for $5, u can add a switch to replace it that u can manually hit.



Better safe than sorry.
Click to expand...
Because the CSS doesn't complete its circuit until the pedals more than halfway down or so, and my clutch is disengaged at the VERY top of the pedal, so I'm causing it to push even more where it's already disengaged.

Explain more on this switch... Instead of pressing the clutch, I would press a button? While still turning the key to the crank position? That'd be cool to have. I don't care what goes in there, just so long as I don't need to complete the CSS circuit to start up.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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Jan 7, 2010
#8
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #8
The cruise control is turned off by a vacuum switch on the brake pedal. It's seperate from the clutch safety switch.

Kurt
 
3

302GTS

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Apr 20, 2009
481
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Largo, FL
Jan 7, 2010
#9
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #9
Yeah, I got all under the dash today after work braving the 'cold' Florida weather. I got everything figured out, but whoever installed the alarm system on my car years ago REALLY did a 'bang up' job on the wire consolidation... It's like a massive glob of wires that just fall down right infront of the clutch pedal, completely blocking the switch... Now, I'm not 100% on how to wire the 4 wire setup on the SN95's... I was sure there were only 2 on Foxes, and you just jumped those two, and that was it - I assumed there were only 2 on the SN95's till I got under there today. I'm considering going REALLY ghetto here, and removing the CSS from the pedal cluster, moving the plunger all the way down to complete the circuit, and sticking it there, via zip ties, tape, jb weld, whatever.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
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Jan 7, 2010
#10
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #10
There's a jumper on the wiring harness a bit above the large harness block behind the driver's kick panel. On AODE's there's a jumper in the plug; manuals are missing the plug. Put a jumper in there and you can start the car without pushing the clutch pedal in. I ran into that when swapping in the Cobra drivetrain.
 
3

302GTS

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Apr 20, 2009
481
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18
Largo, FL
Jan 7, 2010
#11
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #11
Chythar said:
There's a jumper on the wiring harness a bit above the large harness block behind the driver's kick panel. On AODE's there's a jumper in the plug; manuals are missing the plug. Put a jumper in there and you can start the car without pushing the clutch pedal in. I ran into that when swapping in the Cobra drivetrain.
Click to expand...
Do you happen to have any pictures of this, Chythar? The kick panel area is an absolute wiring nightmare in my car, due to a 10 year old alarm system that's in there. I think I may have an idea of what you're talking about, though already.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
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113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Jan 7, 2010
#12
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #12
Sure, here you go:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/769594-neutral-safety-switch-photos.html#post7722503

Sroll down a couple of posts to see a photo of the actual jumper.
 
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Jan 7, 2010
#13
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #13
Chythar said:
Sure, here you go:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/769594-neutral-safety-switch-photos.html#post7722503

Sroll down a couple of posts to see a photo of the actual jumper.
Click to expand...
That's exactly the part I was thinking of! Thanks a lot! Now, I thought that the part I should be messing with was the actual CLUTCH safety switch, the one with the little plunger attachment that goes in when the pedal is pushed down? I should leave that alone, and just add in a little jumper wire to that small harness piece, and that will work??
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Jan 7, 2010
#14
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #14
Exactly right. That jumper bypasses the clutch safety switch in the harness. The dash harness is identical for all 94-95 models, irregardless of engine or transmission type. That jumper was Ford's way of saving cash and stocking different harnesses.
 
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Jan 7, 2010
#15
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #15
Perfect, I appreciate it. Anything in particular I should do for the jumper, or will a piece of fresh wire with exposed ends work? Just shove the ends of the wire into each terminal?
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Jan 7, 2010
#16
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #16
Nothing special, just connect the two terminals.
 
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Jan 7, 2010
#17
  • Jan 7, 2010
  • #17
Got it, thanks. Funny, I looked through your thread before making my own, but didn't take the time to scroll down enough to the pictures...

Mods, if you want you close this now, I'm all set. Thanks Chythar - I'll take care of it tomorrow.
 
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