cam question 95 5.0

[vladasap]

bolt-on 95 5.0 + GT40 u/l manifolds

what gains will i see from a cam swap and which cam do you guys recommend for a street car??

 

[JJ95GTID]

The stock cam is fine until you do some other mods first.

Gears, heads, full exhaust would be some other mods to do first before a cam.

Also, would be good to know if you are running a manual or automatic tranny.

 

[vladasap]

its a manual
i have 4.10's, headers n exhaust done, pullies, cai, msd ignition, blaster ................and so on

i'm kind of set on doing a cam, as i wanted to do heads and cam but something came up and i cant afford to do heads as well

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

Sticking with the stock cam, you'd see more benefit from picking up a set of 1.7 rockers. We're not trying to discourage you, but it's just an awful lot of work to realize almost no gain.

 

[final5-0]

I gotta agree with Matt about all that work for such a small gain

The 1.7 rockers would pick things up ... but don't expect anything
other than a subtle change ... like maybe 5rwhp.

I've seen data showing you can pick up nice gains from a cam with E7's
when using one that works at its optimum with the rest of the combo
A fellow by the name of Buddy Rawls (spelling ) has done some
interesting stuff along those lines

I've also seen data showing using other OEM stuff such as the intake with
porting can be effective as well. You can look at the impressive results Tom
Moss has been able to achieve on this site btw.

As long as you remember you are gonna most likely end up in a range of
about 15 to 25% less rwhp than if you went after market ... that is one thing

But ... are you gonna find 300 or better with that method

Chances are you will not
and
You gotta be careful
or
You'll have considerable money/time invested for only 240 to 280rwhp

Those parts are not gonna be suitable to go the the next level of 300 to
325 NA rwhp.

You can have a lot of fun on the cheap ... and ... if you are careful, you can
get back most of your money from those parts

I did all that and found I was not gonna be satisfied with the results
and
I say if you think you will want the higher output NA combo ........

Just start off with that purpose in mind and skip the OEM stuff

Just my attempt to have you think a good ways down the road here

Lastly ... I'd not do ... just a cam ... or ... just a set of heads
Too much work not to do both together at the same time
and
You end up having to buy gaskets, oil, oil filter, etc ... twice

Grady

 

[vladasap]

im sort of a newbie so please fill in with the roller rockers idea
i heard talks of goin with the 1.7 instead of the stock 1.6 (i think)
whats the $$$ involved for parts n labor n do they have clearance issues
+ in case i do the cam any improvements with the two combined???

 

[vladasap]

btw my plans are not too extreme at all
its a daily driver so im just tryin to have fun with it with a college student budget which f***ing sucks =( but i still love the stang lol

 

[JJ95GTID]

im sort of a newbie so please fill in with the roller rockers idea
i heard talks of goin with the 1.7 instead of the stock 1.6 (i think)
whats the $$$ involved for parts n labor n do they have clearance issues
+ in case i do the cam any improvements with the two combined???

Going to a 1.7:1 roller rocker will increase lift of the intake and exhaust valves.
This changes the stock lift of .444" to .471".

On your setup you might see a tenth or two gain at the track.

Since you have 4.10s already I guess going with a Steeda #19 cam with the stock rocker arms would work with what you have now. $200 from Steeda directly.

Or, you could go with 1.7:1 roller rocker arms and the Steeda #19 cam. It will increase the lift from .480" to .512". If you go this route you will need to replace the valve springs at the same time though which add to the cost. If you don't then you'll most likely experience valve float at higher rpms which is very very very bad.

Blueovalindustries.com have the rocker arms for $199.
With a 1/2" socket and a torque wrench you can do it yourself with the instructions that come with the roller rocker arms.
If you choose to have someone do it then I would say no more than 2 hours labor tops for rocker arm replacement.

 

[final5-0]

I understand about priorities and you seem to have yours in line

I looked at what you've already done and it appears you've already
done the simple stuff.

I found a few oem head based combos with parts similar to what
you are considering that may give you some ideas

Please keep in mind I just found this info off the net and I have no
details other than what you see and I don't have a clue if these
values are standard or sae


heads e7
intake cobra
cam oem
tb oem
maf 76
inj's 19
rockers 1.6
headers oem
mid pipe bbk or h
catback 2.5 flows
rwhp 231
rwtq 285

heads e7
intake edel perf
cam e-cam
tb oem
maf 73
inj's 19
rockers 1.7
headers mac shortys
mid pipe mac or h
catback flow mufflers
rwhp 245
rwtq 272

heads e7
intake gt 40
cam oem
tb oem
maf oem
inj's 24
rockers 1.6
headers lt's
mid pipe ?
catback 2.5
rwhp 245
rwtq 292

heads e7
intake tfs street
cam e cam
tb 70
maf 76
inj's ?
rockers 1.6
headers shorty
mid pipe or h
catback flows dumpped
rwhp 255
rwtq 302

Grady

 

[vladasap]

thanks a lot grady thats actually very helpful as to give me an idea of what others have done since i cant seem to find anyone with the E7's

and to respond to J95GTID, valve float is deff not what im aiming at... but what would you suggest getting as a good combo while having no safety concerns???

oh n i cant forget:SNSign: guys kick ass

 

[JJ95GTID]

You could run the Steeda #19 with the stock rockers w/o valve float since it only has a .480" lift.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

my first trip to the dyno i made 230.2/293.2 to the wheels.....this was with:

gt40 intake/ported lower
heads/cam/rockers/maf/injectors all stock
bbk 70mm trottle body
bbk shoties
bbk o/r h-pipe
flowmasters
mac cold air kit
asp underdrive pullies

just to give you another basis for comparison.