Can a engine issue sound like an exhaust leak on 1 side ?

TSB 03-25-6

There is a TSB regarding an engine tick. This may not apply to you as the TSB deals with a tick at idle. It is interesting as it gives other things to check that could cause a valve tick. Anyway, including the TSB for your reference (look at #7 on the list).

Low oil pressure can cause valve noise. Are you using the recommened weight oil?

My Son's 2005 F150 had a slight tick while crusing. It dropped a valve on the way to the dealer.

>>>TSB 03-25-6
Article No.
03-25-6

12/22/03

ENGINE - ROMEO BUILT 4.6L 2V - TICK NOISE FROM ENGINE - ENGINES BUILT BEFORE 9/17/2003

FORD:
2001-2004 CROWN VICTORIA, MUSTANG, E SERIES, EXPEDITION, F-150
2002-2004 EXPLORER

LINCOLN:
2001-2004 TOWN CAR

MERCURY:
2001-2004 GRAND MARQUIS
2002-2004 MOUNTAINEER

This article supersedes TSB 03-16-4 to update the engine, engine build date and part numbers.

ISSUE
Some vehicles, equipped with the Romeo built 4.6L 2V engine, with an "ENGINE BUILD DATE" prior to 9/17/2003 may exhibit an engine tick noise that is present at all temperatures during idle. The noise may be emanating from the valve guide area in the cylinder head. The noise may be more prevalent in the front wheel well area and may not be heard with the hood open.

ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure listed in this article to properly evaluate/diagnose the vehicle condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE THIS ARTICLE APPLIES ONLY TO VEHICLES WITH A "ROMEO ENGINE" BUILT BEFORE 9/17/2003 (ENGINE BUILD DATE NOT VEHICLE BUILD DATE). THE ENGINE BUILD DATE IS TYPICALLY FOUND ON THE ENGINE LABEL LOCATED ON THE VALVE COVER.

1. Verify the source of the noise by placing a stethoscope on the back of the cylinder head near the exhaust ports.

2. Verify that the noise is heard in the exhaust system (in the wheel well or catalytic converter area, from underneath the vehicle).

3. Verify that there are no exhaust manifold leaks.

4. Verify that the tick noise is still present when canceling each cylinder, by unplugging the injectors one at a time.

5. Check to make sure that the camshaft spacers are in place. If not, install cam spacers (per Workshop Manual Section 303-01) and retest vehicle.

6. Check for proper cam sprocket bolt torque, re-torque to specification (per Workshop Manual Section 303-01).

7. Check hydraulic lash adjusters for a possible "spongy" condition (refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-00).

8. Verify that the timing chain tensioner pin has been removed.

If the above diagnostics do not eliminate the noise while the cylinders are cancelled, replace the cylinder head and cam assembly with Part Number 4L3Z-6049-AA (RH) or 4L3Z-6049-BA (LH). Refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-01 for cylinder head replacement procedures.

NOTE THE REPLACEMENT CYLINDER HEAD WILL NOT IMPROVE OR REDUCE PERFORMANCE.

Any time I hear of a 4.6L 2V making sounds like an "exhaust leak" I immediately think "Check your spark plugs..."

Make sure they're all tight. Such a sound may indicate a plug that's backed out and is holding on by just a thread or two.

the gasket on that side is bad for going out id you have an aftermarket x pipe

as stated above check your plugs too

+1million on checking spark plugs for blow out and the pass exhaust gasket (the one from the manifold to the mid pipe, not the one on the block/manifold).

If you swapped mid pipes and put the factory gasket back in then theres a 90% chance that your leaking there.







(ps 99% of all statistics are made up. )

I was having a seal issue on one side of my H pipe. It was very obvious at lower rpms and high loads when I was next to retaining walls.

I blew an exhaust gasket on my 2004, had an off road prochamber and borla stingers. always sounded like a dumpy boat on the right side.

what kind of exhaust are you running... i have bbk l/t's with an o/r bbk x-pipe, and flows... before i put cats on my x pipe, at half throttle it sounded like it had an exhaust leak. i think it had something to do with the exhaust gas flow bouncing around in the chambered x-pipe.