Iwashmycar, no that is not right, if you wire it up that way your are still going to have to turn the key, but at the same time you are going to have to push the button. Im sure you can figure it out if you think about it.
maybe u should just get an alarm dude if ur worried about people breaking into ur car...
dunno much about electrics or ignition setups, but just a thought.... what if he spliced the accesory circuit, one going to the button/starter and the other going to accesories, that way when he starts the car the accesories would temporarily go out just like stock? just a roush draft idea... somebody work the kinks out
i was also thinking of something like this, but with the activation switch to say a ZEX nitrous kit, the red cover flip switch. I was thinking about running it to the wire to the stater solenoid so that i would have to flip the switch before turning the key, but i would still have to turn the key. Its just something that i can kinda hide away for safty and cool factor.
i had not considered this as an anti-theft feature. gettin to the solenoid is not all too difficult - any kill switch on the starter solenoid trigger wire is goin to slow someone down about 2 seconds. jumping the solenoid lugs is a very well known method - no big secret there.
I just started almost the same thread a day or so ago over in 94-95 section. Did anyone follow up on this and if so, how did it go? I'm going after work today to pick up the switch, a zener diode, and some 12 gauge. I'm plan on going from the clutch safety switch to the button to the starter solenoid wire.
just put a toggle on your fuel pump BEFORE the relay so your inertia switch and junk still works. Leave the toggle "on" most of the time when you're not worried about your car getting messed with - it would be just like normal. When you're in a shady area, flip the switch, which cuts power to the relay, no fuel, no start. I'm going to do this, but I haven't gotten around to it. I had my fuel pump wired directly to a toggle...that gets old turning a toggle on all the time for a fuel pump, plus my inertia switch and junk wasn't active
that would be a good security feature, but I'm just going for the cool factor of flipping up the ashstray and firing the car up with a passenger in the car. As for the update, nether radio shack near my house, there are 2, had momentary switches rated for a high enough current. 50 mA would melt in about 4 seconds. I'm gonna keep looking around to find something before I resort to buying a Miata switch.
Update: I was fishing around the test lab at work (I'm an electrical engineer) and I happened to find two 3A, push button momentary switches, one's red and one's black. I just need to get some wiring and borrow a soldering iron and I will be ready to rock. I plan on doing the install on Saturday, it is my daily driver and I don't want to be without a car in case I blow it up. I'll post again with results that night.
let us know how it goes. im thinkin about the cool factor now. that would be pretty cool. can you write down what wire you cut into so i can do the same ??? whats the deal w/ the high current. thats what i would need is a 3A??? not to big on wiring stuff.
yeah I would assume that would work, everyone runs off a 12volt battery so I don't see why not. However, my entire setup is going to cost roughy 5 dollars total. Also, since I plan on mounting this guy in the console ashtray compartment, I don't want anything that big. I think I'm gonna use a piece of plexi-glass to mount it in there for now until I can snag some machine time at work and fab up an aluminum piece.
As to why you need a high current rating, you're running a 12 volt source and the only resistance your going to encounter on the way to the solenoid is the native resistance in the wiring and that of the switch. All told this is will probably be something like 5-6 ohms. (Guess, no scientific evidence to back this up, just experience.) If Voltage = Current x Resistance, then Current = Voltage / Resistance. 12v / 4 ohms = 3 amps. That is a lot of current. Wattage = Voltage x Current, so 4 x 12 = 48 Watts, all on that little switch! That is a fair amount of heat, and the last thing I need is burning wires in my car. Thats also why I'm definately gonna use blocking Zener diodes to prevent backlash.
I'm actually gonna be a senior in college next year, so I guess calling myself a full out engineer was a lie... so I kinda have to sneak around to do things like this.