can i run a 100 shot with a stock tune/computer?

I did for 2 runs on mine and I was ****tin' bricks the whole like 10 seconds. They were just test runs on the strret.

For a 75 shot you don't need to retard timing, but you do need to check the a/f ratio.

For even a 50 shot I would check my a/f.

If you want to run a 100 shot or more I would definatly retard the timing. I'm pulling 2* static with an a/f of 11.5:1 with my shot.

Just get that a/f checked and run colder plugs, a "tune" is not necessary.

yea gotta remember that "tuning" for n20 is nearly impossible because of the inconsistency of it...as you lose bottle pressure, you lose hp.... so right when you hit the gas you may be at 125hp, but say 2 secs later, the pressure is dropping and you may only be pushing 100hp..so if you have a tune for 125hp, once you get down to 100hp you're running pig ass rich and losing power...
the only thing you can do is retart base timing, which in itself is also nearly useless because of the same principle as i stated above...its fine for the initial shot, but is useless after a few seconds


and for the record, my dealer is 40yrs old, has been using n20 in his cars since he was 16 and has NEVER blown an engine...

I may be totally off here since I don't use the funny gas But I think n2o basiclly expands causing more air volume into the engine which would allow you to lean it out with a tune to get more HP. I would think a 100 shot with no tune you would just run a little rich not allowing the full potential of the n2o. I would think most cars with n2o would have problems when 1. the system has been tuned for the n20 and the n2o doesn't initiate causing detonation due to a lean condition. or 2. There is more air expansion caused by the n2o than the engine can handle(not going to be the case with a 100 shot on a mod V-8). I would think that the quality of the n2o set up and the application it was created for would be key in having the best results with no problems. I would really due my homework by seing which kits have had the most success with your set up and go from there.

Theres a few things that I have learned to keep in mind while using nitrous.

1. If your car has traction control make sure it is turned off. If the traction control limits your fuel it can cause a lean condition .... BOOM

2. Nitrous burnouts are a bad idea in EFI cars. This can cause buildup of fuel in the intake .... BOOM

3. Get a tune if you plan to go over 75 at the wheels or 100 at the crank. Pay mind to the fact that some manufacturers advertise their HP at the wheels and others at the flywheel.

4. With regards to wet kits. This one is the most important as it is variable and rarely have I seen it mentioned by manufacturers or on forums. BOTTLE PRESSURE IS KEY. Do not use nitrous w/o a pressure gauge. Normal pressure is about 850-950 psi. The fuel jets are designed for this pressure. Say you go out to your car an its been sitting in the sun all day with a nearly full tank. You will see pressures of over 1300 psi. Under these conditions you will get a lot more nitrous coming out of the nitrous jet while you will still have the same amount of fuel. This can cause a lean condition and again .... BOOM

Just thought I would throw out a few things I have learned ....