Cant seem to Make the WHP WHY??

Manewaymja2 · Aug 22, 2010

Hey guys,
I have been working on a build, its a 347 SBF 9:1 Comp, Brodix 195 cc heads with custom solid roller Cam 588/613 244-255, 1.6 Rockers with 2inch Kooks headers along with a D1 Blower that saw some good levels of boost 13 and up to 17 but its droping off due to some blow off at the rubber fittings at the intake. Belt slipage was also a factor that we resolved (its eight rib and 3.25 Pullied) and then the fittings started to blow off. We saw into mid 500's and high 500's at some point. Will have the air escape issue resolved shortly, but what im looking for in advice and maybe from experience is with the set up tuned on race gas (SCT) shouldnt this see 600-700 to the tires once the boost stays in? By the way it will be running through a TH400 with a 3200 stall so i realize there will be some lost.

Also wondering if its the Tuner or the build that was speced out by him that may be failing.Thanks

All opinions, addvice and knowledge would be appreciated.
Thanks Guys.

1991notchbackLX · Aug 22, 2010

First, are those numbers on an engine dyno or chassis dyno? Boost leak may be your issue if you're having fittings and elbows blow off left and right. Is the setup intercooled? Expect a sizeable boost pressure drop across a large race intercooler if you are using one. Automatics and high stall converters steal a ton of horsepower as well. We need more info on the setup...

Cobra912 · Aug 22, 2010

yes. My buddy made something around 640-650 to the wheels I believe with a 347 and a D1SC through a 5 speed, mild tune on pump gas.

Watcha ya using for clamps?

Manewaymja2 · Aug 22, 2010

Its a Chasi Dyno, this is wheel HP. The Intercooler is a Race 3 core. The Blow off leaks were killing me yes i know i need to fix them. The stall is 3200 on the Th400 I know there is some HP lost through these items.

The Clamps are Tbolt Turbonautics.

Well what i am doing is eliminating as much Rubber boots and clamps where i can and using the Aluminum Tubing. Also know that there is one area i need to roll the lips on the Tubing for better clamping.

Thanks guys any other info needed.
This is on Race fuel 118, Plugs gaped .028 and timing in the 21 degree area i think.

bentley429isBAC · Aug 22, 2010

i lost 110 rwhp going from a 3550 to a th400.

Manewaymja2 · Aug 22, 2010

Wow thats alot, did the auto help when it came down to the track?
I have a 3350 here as well. But looking to be drag car didnt want to Stick it out. Thanks

bentley429isBAC · Aug 22, 2010

Put c16 in it. You should be able to get away with around 24-26 degrees and fix your boost leaks that is hurting more then you think. As for the TH400 I put it in because I had a turbo, because of that yes it helped. If you can drive there is no reason the stick cant be as fast as the auto.

Manewaymja2 · Aug 22, 2010

C16? better than the 118 octane?????

bentley429isBAC · Aug 22, 2010

there is more to it then octane.

Manewaymja2 · Aug 22, 2010

Gotcha

1991notchbackLX · Aug 22, 2010

th400s are notorious power robbers, they make up for it in strength and reliability, though...

Manewaymja2 · Aug 22, 2010

Thanks guys and yes the TH400 was only for strength and lasting.

fiveohwblow · Aug 22, 2010

Send it to me and I will be sure to get all the power you ever dreamed of out of it

Manewaymja2 · Aug 24, 2010

Ok after doing some online research (google) i have found that The TH400 is obviously a bit more of a HP robber but is obviously stronger. OK from what i have found with guys running similar set ups, say they saw 650 WHP with a Gear Box then they saw like high 500's (580) to closer 600's that counts for a 50-70 HP loss, thats like 10-12% in some cases more or less. so if i saw 580 whp that adds up to like almost 650 considering the power lost.

Does this sound right? If so maybe a bigger blower is needed. But then i would need a Dbl key way crank or at least Crank suppoet or both. Does the
F1 run in serpintine well or would it have to be cog? also i have been told that it takes like 100HP to spin a Procharger????? Sounds a bit high

Thanks

S&B · Aug 24, 2010

that sounds right, a good indicator of power is how much fuel your using. I was amazed at the power levels I was getting on the dyno with my vortech YSI, then the tuner remined me about parcidic drag from the blower, he said that at 17-20lbs of boost it took about 100HP just to turn the blower, so your right on there. Dyno slips are great for a car show but im sure you'll have great luck out on the track. I assume you have an aftermarket block and all other supporting mods, (ie return style fuel system) to sustain that power.

I wouldn't worry that much about the power levels get it running good, and start making some passes. then you can monkey around with it. Your 3550 will go up in smoke if you try putting 500+ to it. If you leaving the auto in a cog setup is not a bad way to make sure you getting all the boost you can.

castine917 · Aug 24, 2010

what type of dyno? i see it is chassis dyno but which type? that is a difference. just a weather change can cost 50 horsepower at your power range. dyno is more for before versus after and tuning so don't get to caught up in the he made more power on his dyno. you may still be a second faster at track due to all the other variables. btw is e85 an option for you? here it is cheap as pump gas and near race gas power capable.

Manewaymja2 · Aug 25, 2010

Well thanks guys, the block is a Dart Iron Eagle 4 Bolt mains all forged internals etc. Heads are Brodix 195 and yes i know this car should be fast on the track. I took it for a spin just a quick punch and oh yeah she does get out. Im in the process of fixing all boost leaks and then its one final tune and to the tracks.

Thanks Guys

Shaolin Crane · Aug 25, 2010

just spin that F1 cog to 28lbs and you'll make all the power you want

Cant seem to Make the WHP WHY??

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