Car Cranks And Turns Over But Won't Start After Overheating

chapters707

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Jul 13, 2014
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A couple of weeks ago my 96 4.6 overheated on the freeway and shut itself down. It was ticking when i gave it gas and losing power and the whole engine was smoking for a while after it shut off. I had it towed home and tried to start it that night but it only cranked over and over but wouldn't start. I have since gotten a new battery, changed the plugs and wires (plugs looked okay, just had some oil on them, wires on the driver side were apparently very heat damaged and basically fell apart in my hands.) Wires from passenger side seemed better but I replaced them all. My buddy and I confirmed I am getting spark and the fuel pump primes each time i turn the key. Also the oil looks okay, and there appeared to be no coolant on the plugs and the cylinders looked dry and relatively clean so I am not thinking it's a blown headgasket.

The anti theft light sometimes flashes when i take the key out, and it sometimes flashes while I am cranking the engine. However, the anti theft light comes on for 3 seconds and then turns off when i put the key to the "on" position, which I have read means it has accepted my keys transponder and will allow the engine to start. I also read that in the 96-98 cars the car will not even crank or turn over if the anti theft system is enabled, so I am thinking anti theft is not the issue. It still concerns me that the light flashes sometimes though.

Today I was looking at the battery cables and the negative cable had a lot of corrosion on it. I trimmed it back and it is looking a lot better now but still somewhat corroded. I will replace the whole cable later on if needed. I pulled all fuses and looked at them closely with a flashlight and they looked okay. I checked relays too and I think they were okay as well. (although I've never checked relays before but was told they would look burned up if they were bad.) Could it be a fuse or relay even if they look okay? The last thing I checked today was the crankshaft position sensor, and I was not getting any power to the harness. I could not reach the sensor itself to check resistance and didn't have time to take off the ac compressor to pull it out today.

Anyway I am pretty stumped here guys. My next moves are to pull the crankshaft position sensor and check it for resistance and then do the same to the camshaft position sensor. Also I need to do a compression test (been saving that for last because I am pretty scared that I may have cracked the head or something and essentially toasted my engine.) Any idea why I wouldn't be getting power to the crankshaft position sensor harness? Is there a way to check fuses with a voltmeter? Any advice or ideas are welcome and thank you if you read this all the way through. I am giving as much info as possible so you guys know the whole situation.
 
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If you melted plug wires you need to check the entire engine harness to ensure they didn't get too hot. Also do a compression check sooner than later. None of the rest matters at this point if it'll never make compression anyway.

The way you describe the event I'd be saving my pennies for a junk yard motor or rebuild.
 
Okay where should I start as far as checking the engine harness? Is that just all the wiring that runs throughout the engine compartment? Do I use a voltmeter to check somehow? Yeah I'm going to get a compression test gauge soon. Do I just put it in one of the spark plug holes at a time and have someone crank the engine while I observe the pressure? Yeah that's what I am afraid of...although the guy at O'Reilly's today told me his friend is selling a 4.6 svt engine with about 100k on it. Could probably get it for 1-1.5k so that's an option I guess haha. Anyway thanks for the quick reply. I'm crossing my fingers that it's just electrical gremlins acting up...
 
A couple of weeks ago my 96 4.6 overheated on the freeway and shut itself down. It was ticking when i gave it gas and losing power and the whole engine was smoking for a while after it shut off.
I have to agree about the real possibility the motor is toast. Why? Because the 96 PCM doesn't have enough smarts to shut off the motor to prevent damage. Also anytime the PCM shuts off a motor for what ever reason a DTC code would be set. The odds favor some reason WHY the motor shut off. Likely something failed causing the motor to shut off.

I'm a big believer in following the BASICS before doing heavy lifting. WHY did the motor overheat in the first place?

OBTW, there isn't power to the CKP sensor. The sensor generates it's own power towards the PCM. Does the RPM (tach) bounce or move slightly during cranking? If so, likely the PCM is seeing a good CKP sensor signal. Also possible to monitor RPM's during cranking. If the RPM's change, then the CKP sensor is likely good.
 
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Thanks for the input. I got the gauge in the mail today so I can find out for sure before work tomorrow. The reason it overheated is that there's a leak in the cooling system, I think it's from the radiator. Assuming I can get the car to run I plan to replace the radiator and overflow tank as well as hoses. Maybe water pump and fan as well just for good measure. The trouble is getting it to start in the first place...if it turns out the engine is beyond repair how difficult is swapping a 96-98 cobra motor into a gt? Does it bolt right up? Again I'll report back with cylinder pressure readings tomorrow.
 
I went to test the cylinders today. The first one I tried had only ~60 psi. I didn't even bother checking the other ones because obviously the engine can't create compression so i'm guessing it's new engine time...
 
I tested the rest of the cylinders today and they are as follows:
1 - 60 psi
2 - 10 psi
3 - 10 psi
4 - 50 psi
5 - 30 psi
6 - 5 psi
7 - 5 psi
8 - 45 psi

Do these numbers shed any light on the situation?
 
You should be 120-150 per cylinder.

If they are all that low I'd guess you have blown both gaskets and likely warped the heads and or block from heat.

Find a motor from a mountaineer or explorer. Usually not beat on like mustang motors and have the wap aluminum block. Swap over your front cover and sensors etc and you only have to run a heater hose line or tap the intake for the core return. I've done it with good success.