car not warming up ?

First I would check the gauge to make sure it is working. As long as it stays in the normal range it is fine. Is it stock clutch fan or electrics?

It sounds like your thermostat could be stuck open. Try letting the car come to temperature and then run the heat and then the air conditioning full blast. Operating temperature for our cars is 195-200 degrees, so if your car is running much too cool, it's going to affect performance and efficiency. If it won't warm up just take off the water neck and replace the thermostat with a 195* one. For all you know the previous owner could have put a 165* tstat in there and that's your problem. You could also try burping the coolant system by jacking the front of the car up as far as you (safely) can with the radiator cap off and the car running.

To be completely honest with you, the stock temperature gauge is pretty unreliable and more than likely highly inaccurate. I'd invest in some good gauges to monitor your engine if you plan on keeping it for a while. Water temperature and oil pressure is a good place to start. Good luck

Agreed on getting a gauge and checking the t-stat (since you have no idea what's in there).

+2 for the tstat and gauges

It's arguable that mechanical are more accurate. I prefer their larger sweep (full sweep electric gauges are expensive).
A mech temp gauge is limited in that the capillary tubing controls where you can mount the gauge (it's only X feet long). And you need to get the large bulbous head through the firewall.

E -gauges are easier to intall and about as accurate. It's your call on which way to go.

niteninja87 said:

ok thanks, how hard is it to do the tstat?

Click to expand...

Takes like what, half an hour, the first time you do one. Getting the bolts out is the toughest part (ratcheting box wrenches are really helpful when I do them).

Your main challenge will be getting the wiring or capillary tube through the firewall. Do not use the steering column exit path for any wiring or gauge plumbing. Make sure you seal any hole you drill in the firewall with high temp red silicone sealer.

Keep in mind that the capillary tube on mechanical temp gauges cannot be cut, shorted severely kinked or damaged in any way. It is one piece from the gauge to the temp bulb that goes in the engine coolant. Curl the excess capillary tube up somewhere so that it will not snag things or get damaged.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender: This will allow you to keep the stock gauge for looks. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.