Car stalls after engine warms up - HELP!!!!

dan_bhfd · Nov 7, 2004

Ok, I am new here but I can't find any info on the web other than other people having the same problem with no solution posted. I am in dire need of help as this is my only car and I need to get to work. Anyway, the problem I am having is the car runs fine from a cold start and as the car warms the choke opens as it is supposed to but as soon as it is fully open it begins to sputter. I have held the choke closed manually for longer thinking maybe the choke is out of adjustment. That was one problem down but it still isn't fixed. It runs like a champ at high idle but when you give it throttle to kick it down from High Idle it sputters then dies. It is driving me crazy. I did have a small leak in the exhaust manifold due to a faulty gasket which I have also replaced. I will be replacing the PCV Valve and spark plugs/wires tonight. I have checked all the vacumme hoses for leaks and there is none. I have adjusted the Idle, the Air/Fuel Mixture, checked the float in the carb, changed the fuel filter, and cleaned the net inside the carb. I have added a Pertronix Electronic Ignition with a Petronix 45,000 volt coil, and an electronic choke. So that rules out the timing, points, and dwell. Is there something I am overlooking? Does anyone have any suggestions? The car is a 1966 Mustang Conv. with an I6 200ci engine with an automatic transmission. HELP!!!!

Thanks,
Dan

Route666 · Nov 7, 2004

I had a sputtering problem, it was lean. My carb only has adjustment for idle mixture though, so it has troubles when your foot has the primary wide open but not yet touching the secondary. It sputters like heck until it gets up in the rpms, and even then is crappy. Once you put the foot to the floor the engine hesitates for a split second then goes like a scalded monkey on speed.

Does it sputter when you put your foot to the floor, only softly, or part throttle?

Check for leaks around the carb base and manifold to head junction.

EDIT: I fixed my sputtering by making it rather rich at idle.

Ozsum2 · Nov 8, 2004

I think you are having some internal carb issues and may need a rebuild. The 1 barrles came from the factory with issues, and Pony Carbs can rebuild it better than new.

WORTH · Nov 8, 2004

How slow can you make it run with the idle screw?

Does the fuel mixture screw make a difference when you adjust it?

Max Power · Nov 8, 2004

Sounds like your leaning out, which could be a vacuum leak you can't find or internal carb issues.

thehueypilot · Nov 8, 2004

Maybe the needle and seat are sticking open causing the engine to run too rich at idle. It may be that the choke has nothing to do with it except that it allows it to run during fast idle. Check to make sure it is not wet looking down inside the carb. Did this just happen suddenly? Did you do anything to the carb. lately? Need more info.

MrBobMarley · Nov 8, 2004

Mine was doing the same thing, left me stranded once and that was all it took. I needed a quick on the spot fix, so I got a napa rebuild kit, like 16 bucks, and she has had zero issues since, and it's been over five months of daily hard driving, at least till september. This was an autolite 2 barrel on a stock 289.

I say go for the rebuild.

VictorII · Nov 8, 2004

dan_bhfd said:
Ok, I am new here but I can't find any info on the web other than other people having the same problem with no solution posted. I am in dire need of help as this is my only car and I need to get to work. Anyway, the problem I am having is the car runs fine from a cold start and as the car warms the choke opens as it is supposed to but as soon as it is fully open it begins to sputter. I have held the choke closed manually for longer thinking maybe the choke is out of adjustment. That was one problem down but it still isn't fixed. It runs like a champ at high idle but when you give it throttle to kick it down from High Idle it sputters then dies. It is driving me crazy. I did have a small leak in the exhaust manifold due to a faulty gasket which I have also replaced. I will be replacing the PCV Valve and spark plugs/wires tonight. I have checked all the vacumme hoses for leaks and there is none. I have adjusted the Idle, the Air/Fuel Mixture, checked the float in the carb, changed the fuel filter, and cleaned the net inside the carb. I have added a Pertronix Electronic Ignition with a Petronix 45,000 volt coil, and an electronic choke. So that rules out the timing, points, and dwell. Is there something I am overlooking? Does anyone have any suggestions? The car is a 1966 Mustang Conv. with an I6 200ci engine with an automatic transmission. HELP!!!!

Thanks,
Dan

How close is your gas line to the block or head? If the gas gets too hot it will perculate and you'll have a case of vaporlock. It only happens when the line is too, or touching, the heat source. Give it about an inch and you should be good. Running at fast idle could provide a gap that will allow it too cool enough. It is free to check it and fix, so that is good. A bad coil or condensor could also open up when the temp. goes up. But please check the gas line first. Failing this, do you have access to another carb. to try? That would certainly nail it down. If it works with the borrowed carb, then you know. Those 6 cyl carbs will sometimes loosen up and then you will need to remove it to tighten the bolts on the underside. That would be a vacuum leak IIRC.

Car stalls after engine warms up - HELP!!!!

dan_bhfd

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Route666

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Ozsum2

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WORTH

Max Power

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thehueypilot

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MrBobMarley

VictorII

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