car stumbles

Did you pull the codes?

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

ninety1gt said:

it only acts up when it gets hot

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You still really need to pull codes.
Good luck.

I figured this would be the best place to put this as I am having trouble pulling codes using the method posted by jrichker (a method I have used successfully many times in the past and I just used on my 1995 F 150). I have a 1991 LX 5.0 Convertible and I the specific problem that I am having is that it shuts off when I push in the clutch or come to a stop, not always just most of the time. When following the aforementioned method to pull codes I get nothing, but I believe something is amiss and here is why. When using this method, http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/, on my truck I get codes. The difference is that when the analog meter is hooked to my truck it reads 12 volts until the key is turned on and then it drops to 0 to begin the code sweep sequence. On my Mustang, it reads 12 volts when connected but it does not drop to 0 when the key is turned on and never sweeps the needle at all.

Please help!

Thanks

the acting up when it gets hot sounds like TFI module, the intake popping could be vacuum leak. Just some suggestions, dont get replacing parts yet!

mr.p said:

I figured this would be the best place to put this as I am having trouble pulling codes using the method posted by jrichker (a method I have used successfully many times in the past and I just used on my 1995 F 150). I have a 1991 LX 5.0 Convertible and I the specific problem that I am having is that it shuts off when I push in the clutch or come to a stop, not always just most of the time. When following the aforementioned method to pull codes I get nothing, but I believe something is amiss and here is why. When using this method, http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/, on my truck I get codes. The difference is that when the analog meter is hooked to my truck it reads 12 volts until the key is turned on and then it drops to 0 to begin the code sweep sequence. On my Mustang, it reads 12 volts when connected but it does not drop to 0 when the key is turned on and never sweeps the needle at all.

Please help!

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See http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=608084 for help.

You are welcome to start your own thread, and I will be glad to help you. Please do not take away from the process of getting ninety1gt's problems solved or confused with yours.

ninety1gt said:

my car was stumbling, when i try to give it gas it hesitates and back fires threw intake and pops from exhaust

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Going back and reading his post, I'm not sure he's getting any codes. If you have a code stored, it'll pop your check engine light. Is your check engine light on?

I had this exact problem on my '93GT and it was the MAF. Inside the MAF there are 2 wires that are used to sense air flow. Particularly if you put on an oil air filter (K&N etc.), these wires will pick up oil from an over oiled (even from the factory with no additional oil added) filter. This oil will prevent the wires from sensing the air correctly and give the computer a false reading. The computer uses that reading to set the air/fuel mix.

Take the MAF off, and look inside. Up at the top, you'll see the two small wires. VERY GENTLY, with a Q-tip and some intake cleaner, wipe down the two wires. You should get a good bit of residue off of them. Put her back together and you should find the 20hp you've been missing.

Good luck!

Dave

GTRocks said:

Going back and reading his post, I'm not sure he's getting any codes. If you have a code stored, it'll pop your check engine light. Is your check engine light on?

Take the MAF off, and look inside. Up at the top, you'll see the two small wires. VERY GENTLY, with a Q-tip and some intake cleaner, wipe down the two wires. You should get a good bit of residue off of them. Put her back together and you should find the 20hp you've been missing.

Dave

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A common misconception is that if the cel is not on then the computer is not throwing any codes. The cel does not always get triggered, so it is a good idea to always start with the codes.

The advice on the MAF is very good, and it should be done periodically. Personally though I prefer to use brake cleaner, and not touch the wires with anything. Brake cleaner is cool because it does not leave a residue behind. What ever cranks your motor.

jason