my car was stumbling, when i try to give it gas it hesitates and back fires threw intake and pops from exhaust
You still really need to pull codes.ninety1gt said:it only acts up when it gets hot
mr.p said:I figured this would be the best place to put this as I am having trouble pulling codes using the method posted by jrichker (a method I have used successfully many times in the past and I just used on my 1995 F 150). I have a 1991 LX 5.0 Convertible and I the specific problem that I am having is that it shuts off when I push in the clutch or come to a stop, not always just most of the time. When following the aforementioned method to pull codes I get nothing, but I believe something is amiss and here is why. When using this method, http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/, on my truck I get codes. The difference is that when the analog meter is hooked to my truck it reads 12 volts until the key is turned on and then it drops to 0 to begin the code sweep sequence. On my Mustang, it reads 12 volts when connected but it does not drop to 0 when the key is turned on and never sweeps the needle at all.
Please help!
ninety1gt said:my car was stumbling, when i try to give it gas it hesitates and back fires threw intake and pops from exhaust
GTRocks said:Going back and reading his post, I'm not sure he's getting any codes. If you have a code stored, it'll pop your check engine light. Is your check engine light on?
Take the MAF off, and look inside. Up at the top, you'll see the two small wires. VERY GENTLY, with a Q-tip and some intake cleaner, wipe down the two wires. You should get a good bit of residue off of them. Put her back together and you should find the 20hp you've been missing.
Dave