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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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car wanting to overheat

  • Thread starter Thread starter bdub
  • Start date Start date Jun 5, 2008
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B

bdub

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Sep 21, 2007
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kinston
Jun 5, 2008
#1
  • Jun 5, 2008
  • #1
i dunno what seems to be the problem with my car, its starting to get hot here. sunday i changed out my thermostat, drained and flushed out my radiator, and checked all my hoses, car was starting to run warmer so i done all that, i have messed around and burped my system for 30 minutes tonight and now the car still wants to get hot really quick, what should the next thing i try to do to eliminate this problem?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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#2
  • Jun 6, 2008
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What temps are you actually seeing?
 
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bdub

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  • Jun 6, 2008
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it would increase from 180 to 210/215 in no time at all, all in about 45 seconds, and that was last night with the air temp around 70.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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#4
  • Jun 6, 2008
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bdub said:
it would increase from 180 to 210/215 in no time at all, all in about 45 seconds, and that was last night with the air temp around 70.
Click to expand...

Was this while idling or at speed?
 

Scott W

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Jun 6, 2008
#5
  • Jun 6, 2008
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make sure the fan is working. Other than that you've pretty much checked everything. Maybe the water pump is going bad - although you should notice a leak in the pump if thats the problem.
 

Scott W

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I did a quick search online and found a couple things. Its possible it might be your rad cap - if its old just replace it. My rad cap wouldn't seal properly so I bought one that has an extra red lever on it which helps it seal.

the fan, as i mentioned earlier. the clutch may not be engaging. make sure the fan spins.

lastly what temp t-stat are you running?
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
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Miami, Ok
Jun 6, 2008
#7
  • Jun 6, 2008
  • #7
did you burp the system with the front end jacked up
? (cap above engine)

earlier this week i had a small cooling issue and burping the system with the car level didnt work. but i got alot of air out when i jacked it up and it cured my problem..
 

JKidd

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Aug 21, 2007
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Suffield, CT
Jun 6, 2008
#8
  • Jun 6, 2008
  • #8
I'd go with air in the system as well....unless, of course, you installed the thermostat backwards

Either that or it's a bad thermostat. Gotta be something you just did since it started acting up after you changed the stat.

Bad stat? Installed incorrcectly? Air in the system? Nothing else has changed.
 
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bdub

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its doing it at idle and and speed, i cant seem to see any leaks around the WP, i took it today and drained all the coolant and hooked up a tool we have at work that pulls a vaccum on the system and fills the coolant for you, that didnt seem to help any at all either
 

Scott W

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Jun 6, 2008
#10
  • Jun 6, 2008
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Is the upper rad hose hot? If so the water pump wouldn't be the problem. You had this problem before doing the work correct?

Did you make sure the fan is spinning? Also make sure the rad isn't super dirty. If theres alot of junk up front then airflow might not be getting through the rad to cool off the coolant.

like I said earlier, a faulty rad-cap could cause issues also. Don't discount it. the rad cap is more than just a cap - it holds pressure and releases it as needed.

keep us posted on the progress.
 
B

bdub

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  • Jun 6, 2008
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Scott W said:
Is the upper rad hose hot? If so the water pump wouldn't be the problem. You had this problem before doing the work correct?

Did you make sure the fan is spinning? Also make sure the rad isn't super dirty. If theres alot of junk up front then airflow might not be getting through the rad to cool off the coolant.

like I said earlier, a faulty rad-cap could cause issues also. Don't discount it. the rad cap is more than just a cap - it holds pressure and releases it as needed.

keep us posted on the progress.
Click to expand...

yes the upper rad. hose is hot, and yeah the problem was going on, so i started doing this work to figure out what was up, i tried another cap off a car that we had at work and it didnt seem to help. my rad seems to be super clean and i do still have the air dam under the car
 

Scott W

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#12
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Is the fan still spinning? some fans have a clutch in them, which engages and disengages depending on the condition. IF the fan is spinning and the engine is still getting hot I have no idea what's going on. sorry I couldnt' be more help

When you do finally get it fixed make sure to post back so that others can see how you resolved your problem.

P.S. underdrive pulleys can cause overheating - but not as fast as you said.
 
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bdub

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i have an electric fan, and its working good, this thing has really got my clueless this time
 

Scott W

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I have an electric fan too. Is yours the black magic?
 

Scott W

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#15
  • Jun 6, 2008
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bdub, i looked at your mods again and I pretty much have the same thing. the reason I was asking if you had the black magic fan is that it is adjustable, as you probably already know. the setting isn't completly consistent. 2-3 times this year I have had to adjust the knob (the engine was getting hotter and hotter and the fan wasn't kicking on until it got much hotter than I was comfortable with. It takes some playing with until you get it right - and even then it will almost certainly have to be adjusted again in the not-so-distant future.
 

LiquidGT

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Jun 7, 2008
#16
  • Jun 7, 2008
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I had a mystery cooling problem a long time ago, anyway it turned out to be a warped radiator cap mounting flange. I would buy new caps and they would work for a while, then they would eventually warp and cause mystery cooling problems.

I even used one of those cooling system pressure testers on the car and it seemed ok, but naturally the pressure tester didnt stay on radiator long enough or go through the heat cycles to let it warp.

If your fan is a Black magic, did you mount the temp probe near the upper radiator hose? It gets the best temp readings in that spot.
 
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bdub

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#17
  • Jun 7, 2008
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Scott W said:
bdub, i looked at your mods again and I pretty much have the same thing. the reason I was asking if you had the black magic fan is that it is adjustable, as you probably already know. the setting isn't completly consistent. 2-3 times this year I have had to adjust the knob (the engine was getting hotter and hotter and the fan wasn't kicking on until it got much hotter than I was comfortable with. It takes some playing with until you get it right - and even then it will almost certainly have to be adjusted again in the not-so-distant future.
Click to expand...

i had the proform fan which i could adjust, but it went out, now i have the ol taurus fan
 
B

bdub

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  • Jun 7, 2008
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LiquidGT said:
I had a mystery cooling problem a long time ago, anyway it turned out to be a warped radiator cap mounting flange. I would buy new caps and they would work for a while, then they would eventually warp and cause mystery cooling problems.

I even used one of those cooling system pressure testers on the car and it seemed ok, but naturally the pressure tester didnt stay on radiator long enough or go through the heat cycles to let it warp.

If your fan is a Black magic, did you mount the temp probe near the upper radiator hose? It gets the best temp readings in that spot.
Click to expand...

the radiator is about a year old and never had a problem with it at all, the car ran perfect all last summer and the winter, but now that is getting hot again is startin to act up. its stumpin me hard this time. got all weekend to fix it, but dunno where to restart at now
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Jun 7, 2008
#19
  • Jun 7, 2008
  • #19
This is per an aftermarket gauge?

Did you happen to use a turkey thermometer in the rad neck while burping the system? This can help check a gauge's calibration (one has to be very careful of being scalded with hot coolant however).

Since it occurs at idle and speed, to me that suggests either a gauge or t-stat issue as being most likely. If you haven't, try going with a balanced t-stat (the balanced part means they open more consistantly).
 
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bdub

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  • Jun 7, 2008
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HISSIN50 said:
This is per an aftermarket gauge?

Did you happen to use a turkey thermometer in the rad neck while burping the system? This can help check a gauge's calibration (one has to be very careful of being scalded with hot coolant however).

Since it occurs at idle and speed, to me that suggests either a gauge or t-stat issue as being most likely. If you haven't, try going with a balanced t-stat (the balanced part means they open more consistantly).
Click to expand...

yes this is per an autometer phantom guage, i havent tried the turkey thermometer. the thermostat that i have been using is a mr gasket 180, those are balanced correct?
 
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