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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Car won't start...

  • Thread starter Thread starter BAD67FUN
  • Start date Start date May 31, 2004
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BAD67FUN

Founding Member
Oct 31, 2001
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Wisconsin
May 31, 2004
#1
  • May 31, 2004
  • #1
What are symptoms of the ignition going bad. I turn the key and nothing happens. The lights go dim and out. Nothing. It's kind of like there is a short in there or something. Maybe something is grounding out? I even noticed the positive post on the battery is very warm.

The battery is fine. Had it checked out at the battery place.

Any ideas?
 

Irv

Founding Member
Apr 26, 2000
118
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0
KS
May 31, 2004
#2
  • May 31, 2004
  • #2
loose connection, check your grounds
 

BAD67FUN

Founding Member
Oct 31, 2001
589
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Wisconsin
May 31, 2004
#3
  • May 31, 2004
  • #3
okay... i'm not that intuitive... could you narrow that down a little?
 
S

streetgrande69

Founding Member
Nov 2, 2002
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Splendora, Tx
May 31, 2004
#4
  • May 31, 2004
  • #4
sounds like a loose connetion between the battery (cable and solinoid) i'd just start checking everything around the alternator, solinoid, and at the fire wall.

have you done any work on anything lately that would cause a prob?
 

BAD67FUN

Founding Member
Oct 31, 2001
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Wisconsin
Jun 1, 2004
#5
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #5
Could it possibly be the solenoid itself?

The connections seem fine?

I've been removing items not needed. The heating system, windshield wiper fluid stuff.

Do ignition modules go bad?

I'm thinking that I should just start going thru all the wires, label things, and move on. I don't know? Why would the positive post on the battery get hot?

Something obvious feels wrong... I just don't know what.
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
1
36
St Paul
Jun 1, 2004
#6
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #6
Sure ignition modules can go bad, like everything else, but they have nothing to do with the engine cranking over. I was assuming by your initial post that the engine will not crank.

Is this true?
 

Pakrat

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Aug 6, 2000
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Currently: NH Originally: Rhode Island (and all po
Jun 1, 2004
#7
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #7
OK, first check the ground from the battery to the engine block. Lay on your back in front of the car, reach up and try to wiggle it back and forth a few times, that may be all it is. If you do not get a start still, then go out and buy yourself a mutitester to shake it down or you will go nuts without any faith in your abitilities. The tester will have a complete diagnosis tutorial in it giving you possible scenarios at each connection point depending on the results you get fromt he tests. It'll be the best $20 bucks you spend, trust me.
 

BAD67FUN

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Oct 31, 2001
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Jun 1, 2004
#8
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #8
It's like power isn't even getting to the starter to turn the engine. As soon as I turn the key, the interior lights go OUT and nothing happens.

Again, the battery is good.

Something must be shorting?

Is there a way to check if the solenoid is bad?





Max Power said:
Sure ignition modules can go bad, like everything else, but they have nothing to do with the engine cranking over. I was assuming by your initial post that the engine will not crank.

Is this true?
Click to expand...
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
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St Paul
Jun 1, 2004
#9
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #9
If it is not cranking, it has nothing to do with your ignition or module. You either have a shorted battery, bad solonoid, bad starter, or poor connections among any of the three.
 
V

vrooom

New Member
Apr 17, 2003
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Midwest
Jun 1, 2004
#10
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #10
BAD67FUN said:
It's like power isn't even getting to the starter to turn the engine. As soon as I turn the key, the interior lights go OUT and nothing happens.

Again, the battery is good.

Something must be shorting?

Is there a way to check if the solenoid is bad?
Click to expand...


Sure jump the solenoid. If the car turns over then yes you have a bad solenoid, assuming you have power coming to the "start" post.

To jump the solenoid. Connect the two large post with a piece of wire or something metal.
 

Pakrat

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Jun 1, 2004
#11
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #11
You don't have to believe it, but I am telling you where I am 90% sure your problem lies. It is almost assuredly a ground problem. Lights and radios will work until you try to start and then it all drains or fades. Suit yourself though.
 

69PaleHorse

Member
Feb 3, 2004
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Ventura County, CA
Jun 1, 2004
#12
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #12
Going to agree with Pak on this - I'm almost positive (pardon the pun) that the issue is related to a ground problem.

I recently had a very similar experience and it was bad/missing grounds.
 

Hack

15 Year Member
Mar 23, 2004
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69
Minneapolis
Jun 1, 2004
#13
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #13
I agree with the last two posts. I've had the exact same thing as well... bad ground. The ground can carry a little current, but when it tries to run the starter, it's too much and the interior lights even go out.
 

BAD67FUN

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Oct 31, 2001
589
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Wisconsin
Jun 1, 2004
#14
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #14
Hey Pak... you snuck your response in just as I put mine in. I completely agree with you... I just didn't see it until after I posted. Sorry.

I'm going to try all the free stuff first.... then I'll invest the $20 later if I can't narrow it down.

At least now with peoples responses I have a place to start.


thanks...

Pakrat said:
You don't have to believe it, but I am telling you where I am 90% sure your problem lies. It is almost assuredly a ground problem. Lights and radios will work until you try to start and then it all drains or fades. Suit yourself though.
Click to expand...
 

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
3,870
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109
Pensacola FL
Jun 1, 2004
#15
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #15
You have a loose connection on one of the battery cables... (or corroded)
Start at the battery and make sure both cables are clean and tight. Then follow both cables to the other end and make sure that connection is clean and tight.
Check all 4 connections, then start.
If this doesn't work, get back with us.
Dave

Edit:
Check both cables themselves while you are at it!
If the cables are old and corroded, you should just replace them. It will be obvious, they will have a powdery substance coming out the ends of the cable itself. The copper inside can be brittle along with the corrosion. Another thing to look for is the cable being swollen and very flimsy. This can happen if the cables are corroded along with exposure to oil, grease, or gas. The insulation almost feels like it is melting (without heat). If any end of the cable is a bolt on type, where the wire is put into the connector then bolts are tightened to hold it in place... The connections could be corroded or loose without the wires and/or connectors being bad. Think of these as just another connection that must be cleaned, tightened, and checked occaisionally just like the battery post connections themselves.
 

BAD67FUN

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Jun 1, 2004
#16
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #16
Okay, I'm being greedy now...

Does someone care to itemize what order they'd check things?

I'm going to try the ground from the battery to the block first. What other grounds are there for me to check?

I know I'm trying to get off cheap by not buying a multitester... but I'm one of the guys who puts things together without reading the instructions. It's a bad habit of mine.

You know.. .while I'm at it.... I never did fix my brake light problems. There are NO wire connections on the brake light switch attached to the brake pedal. Nowhere to be found. Really pizzes me off...
 

BAD67FUN

Founding Member
Oct 31, 2001
589
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Wisconsin
Jun 1, 2004
#17
  • Jun 1, 2004
  • #17
Thanks... I'll try that tonight....




ratio411 said:
You have a loose connection on one of the battery cables... (or corroded)
Start at the battery and make sure both cables are clean and tight. Then follow both cables to the other end and make sure that connection is clean and tight.
Check all 4 connections, then start.
If this doesn't work, get back with us.
Dave
Click to expand...
 

Pakrat

Founding Member
Aug 6, 2000
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56
Currently: NH Originally: Rhode Island (and all po
Jun 3, 2004
#18
  • Jun 3, 2004
  • #18
So what's the verdict you Badboy, you up and running yet or what? The suspense is killing us.
 

J-Scratch

Member
Apr 23, 2004
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Jun 3, 2004
#19
  • Jun 3, 2004
  • #19
get a new selonoid make sure it is bolted to the firewall firmly. I'm almost positive that is the problem I just went thorugh the same symptoms you did over a month ago. Stressful to figure (what's wrong) but but easy to fix. I doubt it is your starter. You can tell when a starter is givingup on life.
 

BAD67FUN

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Oct 31, 2001
589
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Wisconsin
Jun 4, 2004
#20
  • Jun 4, 2004
  • #20
Oh yeah, sorry Pak. Well I pulled the negative cable off the engin block and it was split. So it probably was't giving me a good ground. I went to the store and bought both cables right away and put it all in last night. Fires up just fine. Although like mentioned above..... I still wouldn't be surprised if I find out eventually my ignition coil is going. But as long as it starts now... I'm not worried about it.

The thing about my brakes is still a hot topic with me. I pulled my gauge pod out and went searching for the wires to mount to my brake light switch. No success. I did get a look at another guys 67 and now know what the plug looks like though. I tried to find the wires, thinking maybe the PO for some reason cut off the dang thing. I'm not sure I found them. I'm going to see if I can get the plug someplace and use a wiring diagram to tell me exactly what color wires I'm looking for to reattach the plug.

Pain in my azz....
 
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