Car won't start...

Great news, glad you are in business again. I knew it was that damn ground. I found that one out the hard way myself once. I had the top and radio working until I tried to start, then nothing at all. I replaced the starter motor (which did bench test less than perfect anyway) and a solenoid that was just fine before I decided to buy a tester and really get to the root of the problem. Someone from here helped point me in the right direction to though. I would have been much better off buying the damn tester to begin with, you really should get around to adding one to your tool collection, it's a great friend to have.

Your brake problem has me completely baffled, mostly because you say they did previously work, that just makes no sense at all. Are you sure about that? Did you ever have it inspected before? If so, the only thing that could possibly make sense to me is if at one time the original switch gave out and somewhere higher up on the brake pedal he fabbed in a crude refrigirator type switch that set the lights on when pressed and now that switch has gone too. The only reason I would suspect this is I have in fact done the same thing once to my backup lights just to pass a test until I could find the proper part and do it right.

just an idea, maybe the po had probs, removed the one behind the dash and put in a in-line switc.??? i know you can get them for streetrods........it would be plumbed into the brakes somewhere. other then that the plug shouldn't be far away.......

maybe start tracing out your brake lines. see if there is anything with wires comming out of it.

BAD67FUN said:

...I still wouldn't be surprised if I find out eventually my ignition coil is going.

Click to expand...

Coils usually show symptoms when warm and running.
When it gets really bad, it will shut the car off when you get to operating temp. It will not work again until it has cooled off. So cold/cool starts will not be a problem. Now getting home from your errands might be a different story.
Dave

I had the same thing happen to me.. it was a bad ground connection for me... one day car is fine.. next it isn't... id try that

If you did not clean the + terminal, I would. Heat = resistance. They make a cool wire brush for it, but coarse sand paper will do it too.

You 1st need to check to see if you are getting power to the solenoid in the start position. Grab yourself a test light. You can by a cheap one for 10-20 dollars at tour local parts house. Connect the clamp end to the neg. bat. cable and the probe end to the wire going to the small terminal on the solenoid and have a helper turn the key to start.If you have power there then connect your probe end to the starter and do the same thing.If you have power at both locations you have either a bad starter or you may have a bad negative cable or just a faulty connection on the negative cable.