Car won't stop turning over

TC00GT · Jun 16, 2008

I've been having an issue with the ignition switch, and I can't figure out what the problem is. The first problem was the ignition cylinder would come out when I pulled the key out. I couldn't get it to lock into the ignition switch. So I bought a new ignition cylinder. Same problem, it just slides in and out, but won't lock in. So I tried to replace the ignition switch itself. The one I got from MU for a 66 didn't accept either of the ignition cylinders that I have (also for the 66)

The reason I'm trying to replace them is that when I tried to start the car, I cranked it over, and even after I turned the key to off (making sure to hold the ignition cylinder in) the car kept turning over, until I ran over and disconnected the battery cable. It did this a couple times. Any idea what could cause this?

The car is all stock, in terms of the ignition. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

mr-fixit · Jun 16, 2008

Sounds lke your starter solenoid is stuck. Give it a couple taps on the top with a hammer. It is located on the inner fender panel near the battery. The positive cable of the battery goes to it. If that works, you should replace it.

mustangman70 · Jun 16, 2008

So is the car not stopping running? or is the starter not disengaging? Sounds like a bad solinoid to me too.

Tim65GT · Jun 16, 2008

Next time, instead of removing the battery cable, try to remove the wire from the "S" terminal on the solenoid. If it is still trying to turn over then the solenoid is stuck. If it stops, then the Ign switch is stuck.

jcode68 · Jun 16, 2008

Could also be wires touching on the back of the ignition switch. Make sure they are properly insulated and there are no pieces missing from the back of the switch which would separate and insulate wires on the post from the other wires connecting to the switch. It sounds to me like you might be missing some pieces to your switch assembly since the cylinder will not stay in when you pull the key out.

TC00GT · Jun 16, 2008

mustangman70 said:
So is the car not stopping running? or is the starter not disengaging? Sounds like a bad solinoid to me too.

Well the few times it happened, the car didn't fire, so it was just turning over and over, like I was holding the key in the start position. It doesn't do it every time. A stuck solenoid sounds like it fits. Is it common to be replacing these things often? I seem to replace that and the voltage regulator like every year. I co-worker of mine who has a 65 vert does the same thing. Like every spring, we head to autozone for our yearly voltage regulator and solenoid.

TC00GT · Jun 16, 2008

Tim65GT said:
Next time, instead of removing the battery cable, try to remove the wire from the "S" terminal on the solenoid. If it is still trying to turn over then the solenoid is stuck. If it stops, then the Ign switch is stuck.

Do you mean remove the battery cable from the solenoid instead of the battery? Which side is the 'S" side? If I remember corectly, there is the positive battery cable, and 2 other ring terminals conencted to that side, and the other side of the solenoid has the wire to the starter. Is that correct?

enyawix · Jun 16, 2008

The ignition switch is sticking or bad solinoid. If you remove the small wire from the solinoid and it still happens you have a bad solinoid. If you remove the small wire and it stops you have a bad ignition switch.

TC00GT · Jun 16, 2008

enyawix said:
The ignition switch is sticking or bad solinoid. If you remove the small wire from the solinoid and it still happens you have a bad solinoid. If you remove the small wire and it stops you have a bad ignition switch.

I assume I would remove the wire while the car is turning over to test this, is that what you mean? Sorry, I just want to make sure I understand this. I'm a little unclear on how the solenoid functions I guess.

GNGREN · Jun 16, 2008

While the car is still turning over you pull the wire in the "S" terminal possition off of the solinoid. It should be the small wire closest to the radiator support. It it stops turning over the switch would be where I would look. If it doesn't stop after you pull the wire off, the solinoid is sticking, try and hit the top of the solinoid and see if it will disconnect. I usually smack it with the handle of a big screw driver or pair of plyers (Whatever I have in my hand).

Basic way the solinoind works....

The solinoid is a big sucking coil. When the circuit is completed by turning the key to the start possition, it it creats a magnetic field pulling a set of contacts in to send power to the starter and ignition. When the key is released to the run position it kills power to the "S" terminal on the solinoid making the coil drop out to the starter but holding the ignition in. When you turn the key to the off possition it kills the power on the ignition wire.

Anybody feeel free to correct me, I Know the theory and how it works I just ain't to good at explaining it.

TC00GT · Jun 16, 2008

GNGREN said:
While the car is still turning over you pull the wire in the "S" terminal possition off of the solinoid. It should be the small wire closest to the radiator support. It it stops turning over the switch would be where I would look. If it doesn't stop after you pull the wire off, the solinoid is sticking, try and hit the top of the solinoid and see if it will disconnect. I usually smack it with the handle of a big screw driver or pair of plyers (Whatever I have in my hand).

Basic way the solinoind works....

The solinoid is a big sucking coil. When the circuit is completed by turning the key to the start possition, it it creats a magnetic field pulling a set of contacts in to send power to the starter and ignition. When the key is released to the run position it kills power to the "S" terminal on the solinoid making the coil drop out to the starter but holding the ignition in. When you turn the key to the off possition it kills the power on the ignition wire.

Anybody feeel free to correct me, I Know the theory and how it works I just ain't to good at explaining it.

That makes sense, I forgot about the 2 terminals in the front of the solenoid. I'll give that a try, hopefully that will help me figure out that problem. Now if I cna just figure out why the ignition cylinder keeps falling out... Thanks.

D.Hearne · Jun 16, 2008

The problem could very well be low battery voltage instead of the solenoid being bad. Give the battery a full charge and then see if the solenoid sticks.

enyawix · Jun 16, 2008

if the battery was low it would not turn over he would just get a click instead

D.Hearne · Jun 17, 2008

enyawix said:
if the battery was low it would not turn over he would just get a click instead

Nope, not true. The solenoid will stick when the battery has enough juice to turn the starter, then when it gets low enough while cranking it, the solenoid will stick. Seen it happen many times. It'll sit there and crank till the battery goes dead.

TC00GT · Jun 17, 2008

D.Hearne said:
Nope, not true. The solenoid will stick when the battery has enough juice to turn the starter, then when it gets low enough while cranking it, the solenoid will stick. Seen it happen many times. It'll sit there and crank till the battery goes dead.

That's interesting, because when I jump started the car, it took a few shots for it to fire up, and the solenoid never stuck those few times, only when it was trying to turn over on it's own. I'll give the battery a good charge and test the solenoid. Thanks.

I just picked up a new battery charger, so I'll throw it on. I bought the battery last August, I only drove the car for a couple days (after sitting for 8 years, I got it running so I could use it in my wedding) then I stored it for the winter. I kept the battery on a tender for most of the winter. the battery should still be ok after a good charge right? I don't know how much a battery can take after being drained so often and not recharged. any idea?

enyawix · Jun 17, 2008

D.Hearne said:
Nope, not true. The solenoid will stick when the battery has enough juice to turn the starter, then when it gets low enough while cranking it, the solenoid will stick. Seen it happen many times. It'll sit there and crank till the battery goes dead.

Lets test what you say. A solenoid is a relay and can be triggered by a 9v battery.

the frame of the solenoid is pin 85.

the "S" is pin 86 or the switch.

the big post are pins 87 and 30

when power in on pin 86 or "S" pins 87 and 30 are connected.

A 9v battery will give you a click! just will not start the car. a multimeter will tell you if the solenoid is stuck. When the solenoid is triggered the multimeter will read resistance between the two big post.

Sorry if I went a little geek to prove a point.

Hardtop68 · Jun 17, 2008

If low battery, solenoid will click once and starter motor will not turn or turn slowly not firing up the engine. If very low battery, solenoid will rattle.

For the things you have mentioned I would check these two things:

1.- Voltage feed. If solenoid if sticking your engine will keep turning as you say. Borrow a friend solenoid and test if it keeps doing the same thing. You can use a test light and check if the solenoid is sticking. Check for battery voltage on the solenoid post going to the starter motor.
2.- The ignition switch wires are shorting or miswired.

Regarding the ingnition switch, there should be a little hole to remove the cylinder. Maybe the cylinder is OK but the piece where it latches ir worn or broken, not securing the cylinder in place when you pull out the key. I would remove the whole assembly for a closer look.

Hardtop68 · Jun 17, 2008

Deleted

jcode68 · Jun 17, 2008

Hardtop68 said:
2.- The ignition switch wires are shorting or miswired.

My money is still on this...

D.Hearne · Jun 17, 2008

enyawix said:
Lets test what you say. A solenoid is a relay and can be triggered by a 9v battery.

the frame of the solenoid is pin 85.

the "S" is pin 86 or the switch.

the big post are pins 87 and 30

when power in on pin 86 or "S" pins 87 and 30 are connected.

A 9v battery will give you a click! just will not start the car. a multimeter will tell you if the solenoid is stuck. When the solenoid is triggered the multimeter will read resistance between the two big post.

Sorry if I went a little geek to prove a point.

You can "Geek" all you want, the fact still remains that when you try to crank an engine with a low battery, the solenoid will stick while cranking, even after the battery's voltage is too low to then make the solenoid engage the starter (if you tried it while the battery's voltage was too low at that point) A 9V battery doesn't have sufficient amperage to engage an automotive solenoid or starter. I've seen this happen many, many times in my 30+ years of wrenching. Take any battery, drain enough juice from it, then try to start an engine (remove the coil wire to avoid it starting for the test) Keep crankin till the starter drags down and 9 times out of ten, the solenoid will stick open and the only way you'll have to disengage the starter is to remove the battery cable.

Car won't stop turning over

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