Car won't turn off

So I park my car at work the other day and when I turn the key to turn the car off the key comes out of the ignition and the car is still running.

I've looked on here already for answers and I know its not my lock cylinder or my ignition switch because they both look fine, which leads me to believe that it's the two plastic rods in the steering column.

I took the wheel off and the lock cylinder out and I've read that you have to remove the two bolts that hold the tilt part of the column on, problem is I can only take the right bolt out because there isnt enough room on the left hand side of the column to be able to get a socket or wrench in there to remove the bolt. Do I have to somehow manage to pull the whole column out of the car? If I do can someone please give me some info on how to do this? Not being able to drive my stang is killing me and I really don't want to have to pay some mechanic a few hundred bucks to fix something that I'm pretty sure I could fix on my own.
 
There is a FREE recall on Ford ignition switches. They overheat and sometimes catch fire.

Copy down you VIN number and call the Ford dealer nearest you. Tell them you want to see if the ignition switch recall for Fords & Mustangs was done on your car. They will ask for the VIN number & check it against the master database. If it isn't in the datbase, then you can schedule an appointment to have the switch replaced for free. The TSB is #95S28, and don't let them tell you that they don't do that anymore...
 
jrichker said:
There is a FREE recall on Ford ignition switches. They overheat and sometimes catch fire.

Copy down you VIN number and call the Ford dealer nearest you. Tell them you want to see if the ignition switch recall for Fords & Mustangs was done on your car. They will ask for the VIN number & check it against the master database. If it isn't in the datbase, then you can schedule an appointment to have the switch replaced for free. The TSB is #95S28, and don't let them tell you that they don't do that anymore...

That is true, but the dealer won't fix HIS problem for free. I know that he's on the right track with the plastic rods. It won't turn the car off, but if you kill the engine, the ignition stays on, but the lock cylinder will still work the starter. :shrug: Anyway, I have rebuilt a few columns. Are we talking about an SN95 here or 87-89? Either way, you need to remove the air bag (if equipped), steering wheel, trim, and put that thing in a vise. Preferably a BIG vise. In order to replace those two piddly pieces of plastic, you need to COMPLETELY strip the column, including detaching the tilt part from the stationary part. Watch out for the tilt springs! I believe there are two plastic rods, and they cost ~$25 together. If you need more help, let me know. It would suck to pay the dealer for like 2-3 hours for this ****. Oh, and don't tear out your column until you have the rods, b/c nobody stocks them.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Actually my car is an SN95. I have already pulled the wheel and lock cylinder but my problem is I can only remove the right side bolt from the tilt part of the column the left hand side's bolt is too close to the dash and I can't get a torx bit in there at all to try to get it out. I was wondering if there is a way to remove the whole column without taking the tilt off. Then I would be able to remove the bolt and hopefully get the two plastic rods out.
 
There are 4 nuts and on studs that hold the column to the dash, 13mm i think. they are pointing down, two on each side of the column. There is also a 10mm bolt that clamps the steering shafts together, it's right at the floor. Make sure you unplug the wiring of course too. And when you take off the airbag clockspring, put some tape on it so it stays in the same position as when you removed it. I assume you had the wheels straight before you took everything apart....
 
It's designed weird. :scratch: The lock cylinder is attached to a gear, which slides a plastic rod with gear teeth on it, in and out. The plastic rod is actually two rods, because of the tilt column. So they are connected together. What broke is the link between the two rods, so the ignition switch stays in the 'Run' position. When the key is turned to Off, the rods are not connected, so it won't pull back the ignition switch to shut off the car. But, if you turn the key to the Start position, the first rod will push on the end of the second rod, giving you Start. So you can start the car, but can't shut it off, except by pulling the coil plug (to stop the engine) and the negative battery cable (to shut off power).

I used to work at a Ford dealer, and I have only done one of the repairs, but it stuck in my mind because it was so unique, I guess.
 
superhuaman said:
It's designed weird. :scratch: The lock cylinder is attached to a gear, which slides a plastic rod with gear teeth on it, in and out. The plastic rod is actually two rods, because of the tilt column. So they are connected together. What broke is the link between the two rods, so the ignition switch stays in the 'Run' position. When the key is turned to Off, the rods are not connected, so it won't pull back the ignition switch to shut off the car. But, if you turn the key to the Start position, the first rod will push on the end of the second rod, giving you Start. So you can start the car, but can't shut it off, except by pulling the coil plug (to stop the engine) and the negative battery cable (to shut off power).

I used to work at a Ford dealer, and I have only done one of the repairs, but it stuck in my mind because it was so unique, I guess.

luckily, that has never happened to me. i had 2 ignition switch failures though (2 separate cars)- one wouldn't stay running when you let off the key, and the other some accessories (the heater and stereo iirc) wouldn't work sometimes, but would work others.

:nice:
 
jadedinpa said:
luckily, that has never happened to me. i had 2 ignition switch failures though (2 separate cars)- one wouldn't stay running when you let off the key, and the other some accessories (the heater and stereo iirc) wouldn't work sometimes, but would work others.

:nice:

Wow. I think the SN95's have this problem only because of the tilt column. The 90-93 Mustangs all have fixed columns, and the previous stangs with tilt only had a tilt wheel if I remeber right. The part with the lock cylinder was still stationary. I just hope Ford fixed this problem with the plastic rods, because as far as I know, all 94-04 stangs use the same basic steering column design. I guess we'll start to see more of this as those cars get older.
Oh yeah FatLefty, one more thing, when you put in the new plastic rods, make sure you lube everything good with Ford Teflon grease. It is light blue in color, and looks like cake frosting (Yummy!). I think its like $20 for a can (same size as an icing container) though, so maybe you can find some at the auto parts store or borrow from a dealer.