Centerforce Clutch Issue Resolved THANKS ANTHONY05GT and TOPLESS STANG

I had a problem with a recent Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch DF611679

The car wouldn't want to shift above 5000rpm except with a full granny shift.

I was getting nowhere with centerforce tech support.

My friend Topless Stang sent me a link to one of Anthony 05GT's posts.

I PM'd him and we went back and forth for a day or so.

With this new found information that the part was redesigned in hand I called back Centerforce and they were still denying that anything was wrong with these clutches till I mentioned Anthonys' name.

That's when everything changed. They sent me another clutch overnight which I installed on thursday and on Saturday I went all the way to the finals at Fun Ford Weekend in Epping NH. in the Street Ford class.
So a big THANK YOU to both of them.:nice:
 
  • Sponsors (?)


You're welcome! I knew they'd move if you had the right information. It costs them money to admit a bad design.

I would like to say again that the newest Centerforce dual friction clutch is the best package available now. I know because I can actually shift at high rpm's.
 
This is great information, along with all the helpful stuff posted previously by anthony05gt. For someone like me who is in the market for a new clutch, this info is priceless.

Thanks to all for sharing the advice!

Tom
 
I just installed the above mentioned Clutch and have the SAME problem.. the higher the RPM's the harder it is to shift. Is there an updated clutch i can get from centerforce or is there just a mod i have to do because this 3000 rpm shifting is driving me nuts!!
 
If your clutch begins to engage at about 2" from the floor and is fully engaged by the halfway point you have the crap version. They have redesigned the whole package. The new version has the clutch beginning to engage at 3-4" from the floor and fully engaged by about 3/4 of the way from the floor.
 
You have to call Midway Industries and raise hell. Tell them that you are aware of the re-engineering of the clutch package and that you are stuck with the crap version. Tell them that it's a lot cheaper for them to eat a few clutch packages than to have their reputation tarnished. They won't admit to any of this unless you are persistant. The squeeky wheel gets the grease. Ask for the warranty dept. and if they don't cooperate ask for the supervisor. Read as much on this Centerforce clutch problem as you can find on the forums and get your facts straight before calling.
 
Awesome, ive forwarded this thread to an editor on a magazine called American Car World who sponsors the race series i am in AND also has a 10 second Fox body Stang and he is going to call Centerforce with this info and tell them he is going to write a bad review if they do not send me a GOOD clutch. He was doing a TECH article on changing the clutch on a S197 mustang and i doubt that Centerforce would want readers seeing that..
 
The following was sent to Roger @ Centerforce:

"I believe Justin Sharp called you earlier regarding an '06 Mustang Centerforce clutch swap we did last Friday, which we're consequently having problems with. Justin has mentioned the pedal is very low to the floor and changing gear is a problem above 3,000rpm.

We're not sure whether we have the best version of the clutch, given information we've sourced via a Mustang forum, where other Centerforce clutch buyers have experience similar problems.

Because this is for a magazine feature, I want to make sure this works out right for the owner, for us and, ultimately, for Centerforce. I have attached two pics of the clutch taken during the feature, which hopefully will allow you to identify the clutch type. I look forward to hearing from you."


and this was his response:

"Sorry for the delay in returning your email. Thank you for the pictures which helped identify the approximate date in which this assembly was built. Since we released this clutch assembly, we have made a change/improved upon the the linear throwout bearing travel needed to release this assembly. I asked Justine to make sure that all the air in the hydraulic system is out by bleeding the system. We did a install of this clutch prior to releasing the assembly to the public in a 2005 mustang. This particular mustang had provisions to bleed the hydraulic system. We discovered when bleeding the hydraulic system we were able to connect the hydraulic line prior to bolting up the bellhousing, we were able to push the hydraulic throwout bearing back by hand and bleed the system as necessary. If you are experiencing a low clutch engagement system, I would try bleeding the hydraulic system with a phoenix bleed or pressure bleeder. If the clutch pedal engagement point is the same as stock, possibly changing to the improved clutch system will cure the release problem. Keep me informed via email with your next step.
Best regards,
Roger


:shrug:
 
we inquired about this phoenix bleeder system and got this response:

"The internal concentric slave cylinder/throwout bearing has a hydraulic line that exits the bellhousing and connected up to a block which had provisions to bleed the hydraulic system. Do you know if the 2006 Ford mustang has provisions to bleed the system. Whenever a disconnecting is made to the hydraulic system, it's almost impossible not to get air into the hydraulics. The way a phoenix bleeder system work can be viewed using this e-mail address www.phxsyss.com/
you can also search other bleeding system/techniques using www.google.com I don't know for certain whether this vehicle has provisions to bleed the system, however, I would think it should because any time a dis-connection is made it's possible to get air in the hydraulics.
Best regards,
Roger"
 
I know on my '05 there is a bleeder right at the end of the hydraulic line at the tranny. It's virtually impossible to get to, but it can be done with a 1/4" drive ratchet, long extension and an 11mm swivel socket. I've found the clutch will self bleed just by jacking up the driver's side of the car about 8"-10" and pumping the pedal very slowly for about 5-6 minutes. The problem with the first released DF clutch was the throwout brg and diaphram were too far apart. The newer version has the parts much closer.
 
If your pressure plate has a weight between every diaphram finger then you need to get rid of that garbage. The better version has fewer weights and a new design which brings the diaphram coser to the throwout brg.
 
here is a photo of the current clutch.. is it good or bad?
 

Attachments

  • Clutch 2.jpg
    Clutch 2.jpg
    75.7 KB · Views: 256
Let's see a picture of the pressure plate. You know, the orange thing we can barely see next to your clutch in the pic you posted. Take a pic of it with the smooth side down just like it's sitting there in the pic.