Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch

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The number I hear is 600hp. But that's an estimate. I imagine the real number should be in lb-ft, as torque is what the clutch holds. If you are running tires that will break loose before 500 lb-ft of torque can be applied, than I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Hmm, I'm will be running:

351w 408ci Stroker
AFR 205cc Heads
Flowtech Induction Custom Cam
850 Carb
Victor Jr Intake
1 3/4" Headers
Either 2.5" or 3" Exhaust

I was thinking about a RAM Dual Friction clutch, b/c they say they can withstand an excess of 900 ft/lbs and still provide feather-light clutch engagement. However, they are very expensive, so I'm trying to see if I can get away with using a Centerforce Dual Friction cluch.

As far as tires, I'm running Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 275/40/17 tires in the rear.
 
I run the Centerforce DF.
Pedal is nice and light.
I don't have a great deal of engine, so I can't comment on that.

I checked your link to the Ram.
That thing is a dual disc unit, not just a dual friction.
I don't see any weights either like the CF.
I think that Ram is a whole different sort of setup.
The CF has weights that spin outward as rpms increase to put more pressure on the disc. That is the CF claim to fame.
Personally I like it.
I have had some really strong clutches before, and pedal pressure can get crazy.
Not so with the CF.
 
Just a heads up...
Centerforce markets several different clutch lines.
From stock replacement to the Dual Friction (being the top of the line)

The DF is the only one with the weighted clamps.

Edit:
I notice now they have an ultra-light version made mostly of aluminum.
Runs right at 2x the price of the regular DF! (650.00)

I use the 11"
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...908331+4294908282+4294925081+115&autoview=sku
ctf-df611679_w.jpg
 

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My CF experience after 2 years of use with a similar motor--Light pedal, great street manners, a dream to drive. Most people swear by them.

There is also a group of racers that have had problems with them and will never go back.

Once I started running it real hard on the track (after 30+ runs with DOT slicks), it grazed over and started to loose its effectiveness and would slip some between gear changes. Problem got worse over time. Still ran great otherwise without the slicks. This DF unit is now sitting on the shelf as track usage is now a major concern for me, especially since I have mounted real drag slicks for the next trip.

If you are going to stay mostly street, the DF will work for you, and I totally recommend it for a car without slicks. If you are going to have a track only car, look at the sintered disk stuff from Mcleod. If you have a dual usage street/strip car, there is no real clear answer as to what will work best.
 
I like the idea of the light pedal given by the ability of the weights to clamp hard under load.
I just wonder if that clutch disc is really up to hard use.
If it can't handle slicks and glazes up, then maybe the CF pressure plate could be combined with a high quality disc for better results... ???

I know of alot of brand x owners that swear by kevlar discs for hard use.
They can chatter on soft take offs in daily street driving, but are said to be killer stable for hard launch.
So that brings me to wonder if the weighted plate might be the perfect combo with a kevlar disc.

Just a thought.
 
I like the idea of the light pedal given by the ability of the weights to clamp hard under load.
I just wonder if that clutch disc is really up to hard use.
If it can't handle slicks and glazes up, then maybe the CF pressure plate could be combined with a high quality disc for better results... ???

I know of alot of brand x owners that swear by kevlar discs for hard use.
They can chatter on soft take offs in daily street driving, but are said to be killer stable for hard launch.
So that brings me to wonder if the weighted plate might be the perfect combo with a kevlar disc.

Just a thought.

The weight thing is pretty much a marketing gimmick. They are supposed to help the plate clamp up better at higher RPM's.

Have you ever had a clutch that slipped only at higher RPM's?

Bad clutches pretty much slip at takeoff and in the lower engine rpm ranges when lots of torque is needed in order to get the vehicle moving. Once you are in higher RPM range the additional forces that those weights are supposed to create are not really needed to keep the clutch assembly clamped up.

Other companies (such as Spec) offer various clutch disc facings for use with their diaphragm clutches. They have 5 basic options as far as the disk goes. As you get a more aggressive disc material, the chances of chatter increase (as does the removal of the little cushioning springs found on the more street oriented discs.)

There are independent companies that have experience at matching various brands of discs and pressure plates. Most can give pretty good results, at a fair price.
 
The weight thing is pretty much a marketing gimmick. They are supposed to help the plate clamp up better at higher RPM's.

Have you ever had a clutch that slipped only at higher RPM's?

Bad clutches pretty much slip at takeoff and in the lower engine rpm ranges when lots of torque is needed in order to get the vehicle moving. Once you are in higher RPM range the additional forces that those weights are supposed to create are not really needed to keep the clutch assembly clamped up.

Other companies (such as Spec) offer various clutch disc facings for use with their diaphragm clutches. They have 5 basic options as far as the disk goes. As you get a more aggressive disc material, the chances of chatter increase (as does the removal of the little cushioning springs found on the more street oriented discs.)

There are independent companies that have experience at matching various brands of discs and pressure plates. Most can give pretty good results, at a fair price.

Not to start a flame war here but most clutches (Borg-Beck and Long) have used weight assisted fingers for 40 years.
You may know more than all those guys but I don't. And I HAVE had clutches that slipped at higher rpm.
 
I run the Centerforce DF.
Pedal is nice and light.
I don't have a great deal of engine, so I can't comment on that.

I checked your link to the Ram.
That thing is a dual disc unit, not just a dual friction.
I don't see any weights either like the CF.
I think that Ram is a whole different sort of setup.
The CF has weights that spin outward as rpms increase to put more pressure on the disc. That is the CF claim to fame.
Personally I like it.
I have had some really strong clutches before, and pedal pressure can get crazy.
Not so with the CF.
I've had one since the 1st month they were out. After decades of having to choose between a drive-to-work clutch and a Saturday night special clutch I will never run anything other than the Centerforce. And their 'claim-to-fame' is the sintered iron surface next to the flywheel and fiber surface next to the p-p. Ther have been centrifigual assist p-p's for as long as I can remember.
 
Has anyone here tried a McLeod Street Twin Clutch?

I'm trying to decide between the RAM Street Dual Clutch and the McLeod Street Twin clutch. One advantage to the McLeod is that it can be purchased with a 0 oz imbalance (my crank is internal balance) where as the RAM would need to be special ordered for 0 oz imbalance. I have decided that I want to go with a twin disc clutch setup because it will offer more than enough holding capacity for wherever I want to go, which could possibly be forced induction somewhere along down the road, and the pedal effort will still be silky smooth and not an on-off switch.