Changing on the oil.

[plainwrecknate]

The v8's two oil plugs?

I just got my 91 5.0 about three months ago and this was my second time to change the oil (a lot of out of town trips). I had it changed at a shop the first time but this time I wanted to do it myself so I got all the stuff, oil, filter, air filter. I got it all changed, no problem. Then I was reading the threads here and a Fox Stang book I bought while I was getting rid of the old oil, and it mentioned 2 plugs/pans. Since I've never changed oil before, I had my older brother help me out and he just told me to do the bigger one. I don't really know where the second one is even, is that the pan right under where the filter is? I didn't think of that one because there's a bar right under that bolt so I looked past it. Have i contaminated the new oil by doing this? Should I invest in changing everything again, or could I wait maybe 1k-2k miles instead of the 3k?

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

[Euphoric306]

well for one youve got too much oil in ur pan now, if u put in 5 quarts... that could mess up something depending on how much was in the engine after u "drained" it

yea it contaminated the new oil... get everything changed again, u could maybe lived for 2k on the filter but change the oil at least

 

[plainwrecknate]

I only put 4 quarts in. After doing the 4 I let it sit, and then checked the dipstick and it was in that grid near the top of being full so I didn't add the last quart. I'll change everything this afternoon. Can you anyone point me in the direction of that other pan though? Is it the one right under the filter?

 

[HISSIN50]

If you used expensive oil (i.e. synthetic) you are probably ok running it for a bit. Do try and ascertain if you overfilled and correct that. Using the front drain works well for draining out a little bit of oil in my experience.

Otherwise, if using cheaper oil, I might do as said by Blah and change it all out.

As an aside (might be reason enough to change it out), the factory dipstick can be off and read low (mine read at the top of the full hatch marks after 4 quarts including the filter).

If so, change all the oil and filter (you dont know how much was retained in the filter exactly), put 5 quarts in, run it to circulate the oil and check it in the morning before starting it. Remark the dipstick with a new full mark. Use that as your reference.

Good luck and welcome to the boards!

 

[HISSIN50]

I only put 4 quarts in. After doing the 4 I let it sit, and then checked the dipstick and it was in that grid near the top of being full so I didn't add the last quart. I'll change everything this afternoon. Can you anyone point me in the direction of that other pan though? Is it the one right under the filter?

You posted while I was pecking.

The front drain plug is the one in the front of the pan, facing the anti-sway bar (that big round metal bar running transversely). It points down at about a 45* angle.

Good luck.

 

[plainwrecknate]

I used Valvoline Durablend. The guy at napa kept telling me to get this instead of a full synthetic, like Mobil 1, like I wanted. But it all worked fine, except for that second plug, heh. I'm going to go a head and change everything out though. Probably go with the full synthetic this time though, I drive 2000+ mile trips monthly and would like to wait a little longer on the changes.

You posted while I was pecking.

The front drain plug is the one in the front of the pan, facing the anti-sway bar (that big round metal bar running transversely). It points down at about a 45* angle.

Good luck.

Thanks for letting me know about the dipstick and where that plug is. Now that I know that's what I was looking at, I don't the shop drained it when I got it changed last time. It was on tight and didn't look as if it had been removed recently.

thanks again blah and hissin!

 

[Euphoric306]

no problem... but just so you know, it is the same oil pan.. it has dual sumps to clear the subframe and k member i believe

 

[89lxsport50]

Don't put synthetic in it if it has been using regular oil up until now. It will cause leaks.

 

[HISSIN50]

Don't put synthetic in it if it has been using regular oil up until now. It will cause leaks.

I would not word it that strongly. It might reveal leaks on an older motor with older seals. No one can know for sure w/o trying it - some folks report no extra leaks. And I would trade a couple leaks for extra protection in an extreme climate, etc.

 

[89lxsport50]

I would not word it that strongly. It might reveal leaks on an older motor with older seals. No one can know for sure w/o trying it - some folks report no extra leaks. And I would trade a couple leaks for extra protection in an extreme climate, etc.

I should have said, it could cause leaks. Personally, I wouldn't switch from dino oil to synthetic on a 14 year old motor. I'm no expert on the subject, but I wouldn't take the chance. Just my .02.

 

[THC420]

Don't put synthetic in it if it has been using regular oil up until now. It will cause leaks.

I hear this so much from so many people, yet it is SO untrue. I changed my car over from dino oil to mobil 1 synthetic at 180,000km's.

My car now has 225,000 km's on it and it doesnt leak or burn a drop of oil.

 

[larrendeuce]

I remember back in high school my friend had a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse. He changed the oil a couple of times and everything was fine. Then we decided since it was low miles, something like 43,000 he should try synthetic. I don't remember which it was though. Shortly after the change he spun a rod bearing and had the whole motor replaced. Cause was determined to be a lack of oil(leaked out maybe?) Two weeks after the motor was finished he was hit by a drunk driver and the car was totaled. Today he drives a 2001 Mustang V6.

 

[sunil6784]

I love synthetic, pick up a few ponies, better protection, no leaks on my 70,000 mile motor.

 

[vristang]

I remember back in high school ... Shortly after the change he spun a rod bearing and had the whole motor replaced. Cause was determined to be a lack of oil(leaked out maybe?)

I wouldn't be too quick to blame this on synthetics.


I recently picked up a couple of quarts of Mobil 1 for when I change the oil in the stroker. I think I remember reading on the back of the bottle that Mobil 1 was safe for all types/ages of engine seals. Maybe just pro-Mobil 1 propaganda

 

[CBZGT50]

It is propaganda from either haters or cheap azzes. I only use moble FULL synth in BOTH of my Cobra's and I know the previous owners went to jiffy lube before I took over. Nothing like going from Valvoline to Moble 1 full synth. So far after two years, I still have no leaks. I have never had a leak on any of my five mustangs, even at high milage.

The spun bearing, wasn't the oil's fault. A spun bearing is operator fault due to poor maintenence or high RPM.

 

[larrendeuce]

It is propaganda from either haters or cheap azzes. I only use moble FULL synth in BOTH of my Cobra's and I know the previous owners went to jiffy lube before I took over. Nothing like going from Valvoline to Moble 1 full synth. So far after two years, I still have no leaks. I have never had a leak on any of my five mustangs, even at high milage.

The spun bearing, wasn't the oil's fault. A spun bearing is operator fault due to poor maintenence or high RPM.

I believe it was both poor maintenece and high rpm. Its possible it happened at the same time he switched to synthetic, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

 

[HISSIN50]

In the old days, synthetics (the first versions) did not necessarily mix well with dino juice. These days not so.

There is only ONE way to know if a particular motor will demonstrate leakage and that is to swap over and try it.

BTW, why am I watching a cartoon of a guy leaning out a car window with a bat, as if to homer off a mailbox?