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Changing on the oil.

  • Thread starter Thread starter plainwrecknate
  • Start date Start date Aug 15, 2005
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plainwrecknate

New Member
Jul 21, 2005
92
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Fort Morgan, CO
Aug 15, 2005
#1
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #1
The v8's two oil plugs?

I just got my 91 5.0 about three months ago and this was my second time to change the oil (a lot of out of town trips). I had it changed at a shop the first time but this time I wanted to do it myself so I got all the stuff, oil, filter, air filter. I got it all changed, no problem. Then I was reading the threads here and a Fox Stang book I bought while I was getting rid of the old oil, and it mentioned 2 plugs/pans. Since I've never changed oil before, I had my older brother help me out and he just told me to do the bigger one. I don't really know where the second one is even, is that the pan right under where the filter is? I didn't think of that one because there's a bar right under that bolt so I looked past it. Have i contaminated the new oil by doing this? Should I invest in changing everything again, or could I wait maybe 1k-2k miles instead of the 3k?

Thanks for the help in advance.
 

Euphoric306

New Member
Apr 5, 2004
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Aug 15, 2005
#2
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #2
well for one youve got too much oil in ur pan now, if u put in 5 quarts... that could mess up something depending on how much was in the engine after u "drained" it

yea it contaminated the new oil... get everything changed again, u could maybe lived for 2k on the filter but change the oil at least
 
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plainwrecknate

New Member
Jul 21, 2005
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Fort Morgan, CO
Aug 15, 2005
#3
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #3
I only put 4 quarts in. After doing the 4 I let it sit, and then checked the dipstick and it was in that grid near the top of being full so I didn't add the last quart. I'll change everything this afternoon. Can you anyone point me in the direction of that other pan though? Is it the one right under the filter?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Aug 15, 2005
#4
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #4
If you used expensive oil (i.e. synthetic) you are probably ok running it for a bit. Do try and ascertain if you overfilled and correct that. Using the front drain works well for draining out a little bit of oil in my experience.

Otherwise, if using cheaper oil, I might do as said by Blah and change it all out.

As an aside (might be reason enough to change it out), the factory dipstick can be off and read low (mine read at the top of the full hatch marks after 4 quarts including the filter).

If so, change all the oil and filter (you dont know how much was retained in the filter exactly), put 5 quarts in, run it to circulate the oil and check it in the morning before starting it. Remark the dipstick with a new full mark. Use that as your reference.

Good luck and welcome to the boards!
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Aug 15, 2005
#5
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #5
plainwrecknate said:
I only put 4 quarts in. After doing the 4 I let it sit, and then checked the dipstick and it was in that grid near the top of being full so I didn't add the last quart. I'll change everything this afternoon. Can you anyone point me in the direction of that other pan though? Is it the one right under the filter?
Click to expand...
You posted while I was pecking.

The front drain plug is the one in the front of the pan, facing the anti-sway bar (that big round metal bar running transversely). It points down at about a 45* angle.

Good luck.
 
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plainwrecknate

New Member
Jul 21, 2005
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Fort Morgan, CO
Aug 15, 2005
#6
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #6
I used Valvoline Durablend. The guy at napa kept telling me to get this instead of a full synthetic, like Mobil 1, like I wanted. But it all worked fine, except for that second plug, heh. I'm going to go a head and change everything out though. Probably go with the full synthetic this time though, I drive 2000+ mile trips monthly and would like to wait a little longer on the changes.

HISSIN50 said:
You posted while I was pecking.

The front drain plug is the one in the front of the pan, facing the anti-sway bar (that big round metal bar running transversely). It points down at about a 45* angle.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Thanks for letting me know about the dipstick and where that plug is. Now that I know that's what I was looking at, I don't the shop drained it when I got it changed last time. It was on tight and didn't look as if it had been removed recently.

thanks again blah and hissin!
 

Euphoric306

New Member
Apr 5, 2004
905
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0
Aug 15, 2005
#7
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #7
no problem... but just so you know, it is the same oil pan.. it has dual sumps to clear the subframe and k member i believe
 
8

89lxsport50

10 Year Member
Feb 25, 2003
550
5
39
Franklin Tennessee
Aug 15, 2005
#8
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #8
Don't put synthetic in it if it has been using regular oil up until now. It will cause leaks.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Aug 15, 2005
#9
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #9
89lxsport50 said:
Don't put synthetic in it if it has been using regular oil up until now. It will cause leaks.
Click to expand...
I would not word it that strongly. It might reveal leaks on an older motor with older seals. No one can know for sure w/o trying it - some folks report no extra leaks. And I would trade a couple leaks for extra protection in an extreme climate, etc.
 
8

89lxsport50

10 Year Member
Feb 25, 2003
550
5
39
Franklin Tennessee
Aug 15, 2005
#10
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #10
HISSIN50 said:
I would not word it that strongly. It might reveal leaks on an older motor with older seals. No one can know for sure w/o trying it - some folks report no extra leaks. And I would trade a couple leaks for extra protection in an extreme climate, etc.
Click to expand...

I should have said, it could cause leaks. Personally, I wouldn't switch from dino oil to synthetic on a 14 year old motor. I'm no expert on the subject, but I wouldn't take the chance. Just my .02.
 
T

THC420

Banned
Dec 18, 2001
202
0
0
Ontario, Canada
Aug 15, 2005
#11
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #11
89lxsport50 said:
Don't put synthetic in it if it has been using regular oil up until now. It will cause leaks.
Click to expand...

I hear this so much from so many people, yet it is SO untrue. I changed my car over from dino oil to mobil 1 synthetic at 180,000km's.

My car now has 225,000 km's on it and it doesnt leak or burn a drop of oil.
 

larrendeuce

Member
Sep 13, 2003
649
1
19
Southern NJ
Aug 15, 2005
#12
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #12
I remember back in high school my friend had a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse. He changed the oil a couple of times and everything was fine. Then we decided since it was low miles, something like 43,000 he should try synthetic. I don't remember which it was though. Shortly after the change he spun a rod bearing and had the whole motor replaced. Cause was determined to be a lack of oil(leaked out maybe?) Two weeks after the motor was finished he was hit by a drunk driver and the car was totaled. Today he drives a 2001 Mustang V6.
 

sunil6784

Member
Mar 31, 2005
620
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18
Boston, MA
Aug 15, 2005
#13
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #13
I love synthetic, pick up a few ponies, better protection, no leaks on my 70,000 mile motor.
 

vristang

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
4,933
101
124
Seattle
Aug 15, 2005
#14
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #14
larrendeuce said:
I remember back in high school ... Shortly after the change he spun a rod bearing and had the whole motor replaced. Cause was determined to be a lack of oil(leaked out maybe?)
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be too quick to blame this on synthetics.


I recently picked up a couple of quarts of Mobil 1 for when I change the oil in the stroker. I think I remember reading on the back of the bottle that Mobil 1 was safe for all types/ages of engine seals. Maybe just pro-Mobil 1 propaganda
 

CBZGT50

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
171
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0
St Louis area
Aug 15, 2005
#15
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #15
It is propaganda from either haters or cheap azzes. I only use moble FULL synth in BOTH of my Cobra's and I know the previous owners went to jiffy lube before I took over. Nothing like going from Valvoline to Moble 1 full synth. So far after two years, I still have no leaks. I have never had a leak on any of my five mustangs, even at high milage.

The spun bearing, wasn't the oil's fault. A spun bearing is operator fault due to poor maintenence or high RPM.
 

larrendeuce

Member
Sep 13, 2003
649
1
19
Southern NJ
Aug 15, 2005
#16
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #16
CBZGT50 said:
It is propaganda from either haters or cheap azzes. I only use moble FULL synth in BOTH of my Cobra's and I know the previous owners went to jiffy lube before I took over. Nothing like going from Valvoline to Moble 1 full synth. So far after two years, I still have no leaks. I have never had a leak on any of my five mustangs, even at high milage.

The spun bearing, wasn't the oil's fault. A spun bearing is operator fault due to poor maintenence or high RPM.
Click to expand...


I believe it was both poor maintenece and high rpm. Its possible it happened at the same time he switched to synthetic, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Aug 15, 2005
#17
  • Aug 15, 2005
  • #17
In the old days, synthetics (the first versions) did not necessarily mix well with dino juice. These days not so.

There is only ONE way to know if a particular motor will demonstrate leakage and that is to swap over and try it.

BTW, why am I watching a cartoon of a guy leaning out a car window with a bat, as if to homer off a mailbox?
 
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