i need a new oil pan mine is rusty and probably a rear main seal too.my question is what is the easyest way to get the oil pan off?
changing the oil pan ?
- Thread starter KILLER EX
- Start date
the98stang
Active Member
Directly quoted from my Haynes manual (for 94-03 mustangs):
"The manufacturer's procedure calls for the supporting the engine from above while disconnecting and lowering the front suspension crossmember to gain the necessary clearance, a difficult job for the home mechanic. The procedure below does not require lowering the suspension."
Then it goes on with the procedure:
1. disconnect battery
2. remove the air cleaner duct assembly
3. remove the wiper arms and module
4. remove the weather strip and plastic covering from the cowl
5. remove the crankshaft position sensor shield (if equipped)
6. attach an engine support fixture to the engine lifting eyes adjacent to the exhaust manifolds (the engine support fixture can be rented)
7. Raise the car and put it on jack stands
8. Remove the oil level dipstick and disconnect the oil level sensor on the side of the oil pan
9. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
10. if your car has an auto tranny, disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the radiator
11. remove the starter motor wire harness and ground strap
12. Remove the large engine mount-to-crossmember nuts from the front engine mounts
13. Remove the transmission and the flywheel/drive plate.
14. Raise the engine a little at a time with the support fixture, keeping the engine relatively level and watching for interference with any engine compartment components. When the engine is raised about 2 inches, place short lengths or 2X4 lumber between the motor mounts and the crossmember for extra safety.
15. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts, including the pan-to-bellhousing bolts (v6 only).
16. Seperate the pan from the engine block carefully. Don't pry between the engine block and pan or damage to the sealing surfaces may result and oil leaks could develop. Instead, dislodge the pan with a large rubber mallet or a wood block and a hammer.
Damn, that should be a sticky lol. Hope that helps...
Tanner
"The manufacturer's procedure calls for the supporting the engine from above while disconnecting and lowering the front suspension crossmember to gain the necessary clearance, a difficult job for the home mechanic. The procedure below does not require lowering the suspension."
Then it goes on with the procedure:
1. disconnect battery
2. remove the air cleaner duct assembly
3. remove the wiper arms and module
4. remove the weather strip and plastic covering from the cowl
5. remove the crankshaft position sensor shield (if equipped)
6. attach an engine support fixture to the engine lifting eyes adjacent to the exhaust manifolds (the engine support fixture can be rented)
7. Raise the car and put it on jack stands
8. Remove the oil level dipstick and disconnect the oil level sensor on the side of the oil pan
9. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
10. if your car has an auto tranny, disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the radiator
11. remove the starter motor wire harness and ground strap
12. Remove the large engine mount-to-crossmember nuts from the front engine mounts
13. Remove the transmission and the flywheel/drive plate.
14. Raise the engine a little at a time with the support fixture, keeping the engine relatively level and watching for interference with any engine compartment components. When the engine is raised about 2 inches, place short lengths or 2X4 lumber between the motor mounts and the crossmember for extra safety.
15. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts, including the pan-to-bellhousing bolts (v6 only).
16. Seperate the pan from the engine block carefully. Don't pry between the engine block and pan or damage to the sealing surfaces may result and oil leaks could develop. Instead, dislodge the pan with a large rubber mallet or a wood block and a hammer.
Damn, that should be a sticky lol. Hope that helps...
Tanner
Kilgore Trout said:
Any idea how to clean the rust off easily? I know sanding would work but is there an easier way? Mine has some rusty scrapes from my car being low and I sprayed it with some black paint one time when I changed my oil but I'd like to get the rust off and re-paint it. It's just a PITA laying on the ground ....
thanks for the replies. my pan is very rusty and i am afraid it will rot through at some point so i figured while it is off the road for the winter i would just replace it.
the98stang
Active Member
KILLER EX said:
Yea rust is baaaaad sh1t. Unfortunetely the pan is damn hard to remove. I can't believe you have to pull the tranny for that
...
You must live close to the ocean for your oil pan to be rusted that bad. Gloucester is on the Atlantic Ocean. And the salt that is thrown on the roads in the winter time doesn't help either. Has your Mustang been driven all year round by the previous owner? If so, that explains why the oil pan is badly rusted.KILLER EX said:
the mustang was not driven year round it mostly sat .it has not been driven in 2 years.i think letting it sit does more harm than driving
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