cheap cam+Lifters?

65'Pony · May 12, 2007

I have a collapsed hyd. lifter in my 289 and I was gonna swap in a new cam and lifter set to pep up my 289 a bit. Im on a really tight budget right now so I wanna spend less than $150 on a cam/flat tappet lifter combo. Can anyone suggest anything for a 1965 289 with exaust, a C-4, and a 600 holley?

bnickel · May 12, 2007

summit has a kit that is less than 100 bucks for a .448/.472 lift cam that should work great for your car. it's not the hottest cam around but is a definite upgrade from a stock 289 cam and it's not so radical that the car will shake all over the place not let you use your power brakes (if so equipped) pretty nice little cam really and you'll still get decent mileage from it.

bnickel · May 12, 2007

here's the one i'm talking about

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-K3600&autoview=sku

73 bucks, can't beat that price with a stick for cam and lifters, hell i think i paid that much or more for the last set of just lifters i bought!!!! BTW, this cam is made for summit by speed pro. i have this cam's bigger brother with .472/.496 lift in my 351w and it's pretty rowdy for an otherwise totally stock engine and trans with only 3.25 gears, in fact i could actually use a slightly higher stall speed convertor but the stock one works ok.

D.Hearne · May 12, 2007

I used their same .448/.472 cam grind but in a 400M and it worked great. Even with the stock 2 bbl intake, a Holley 500 2bbl and headers and the stock 8 to 1 compression ratio. I totally agree with bnickel it will be perfect in a stock 289. Other choices in that price range would be Crane's Energizer line from Summit.

65'Pony · May 12, 2007

Do I need to change out my cam bearings if I pull the old cam and lifters out? I don't wanna pull my engine out just yet, because im planning on rebuilding it in abour three or four months.

D.Hearne · May 12, 2007

No, the cam bearings will be fine. The only reason they're changed in a rebuild was the hot tank process to clean the block ate em up.

bnickel · May 12, 2007

D.Hearne said:
No, the cam bearings will be fine. The only reason they're changed in a rebuild was the hot tank process to clean the block ate em up.

or of there was some kind of catastrophic faliure that caused debris to chew the cam bearings up.

chromedog · May 12, 2007

ford racing has a couple cams pretty reasonable through summit... i got the b331 i think it was, and the summit brand lifters for a little over 100.00

ratio411 · May 12, 2007

Just make sure to be very careful taking the cam in/out of the engine.
If you bump a bearing with the sharp edge of a lobe, you can damage it!

The Summit cam is a good recommendation.
They have other sizes too, but the .472" lift is right on the edge of needing screw in studs, so don't pick one with more lift.

Also, the same company that makes the cams for Summit makes the Cams for Edelbrock. These are the same cams, just in different wrappers.
Dave

bnickel · May 12, 2007

ratio411 said:
Just make sure to be very careful taking the cam in/out of the engine.
If you bump a bearing with the sharp edge of a lobe, you can damage it!

The Summit cam is a good recommendation.
They have other sizes too, but the .472" lift is right on the edge of needing screw in studs, so don't pick one with more lift.

Also, the same company that makes the cams for Summit makes the Cams for Edelbrock. These are the same cams, just in different wrappers.
Dave

yep, ford racing, summit, e'brock and a few others as well all made by speed-pro. i went straight to the source for mine and got teh speed pro cam from a local parts store i do most of my business with.

SadbutTrue · May 12, 2007

Specifically, looks like the cam the first guy mentioned is the exact same one as Edelbrock's Performer cam. Should be solid...

D.Hearne · May 12, 2007

chromedog said:
ford racing has a couple cams pretty reasonable through summit... i got the b331 i think it was, and the summit brand lifters for a little over 100.00

The B cam is a hydraulic roller, not what you'd call a budget swap into a non roller block. The lifters for this are over $400. Not to mention the custom pushrods.

D.Hearne · May 12, 2007

ratio411 said:
Just make sure to be very careful taking the cam in/out of the engine.
If you bump a bearing with the sharp edge of a lobe, you can damage it!

Dave

I've never worried about nicking the cam bearings, you're talking about a wide soft friction bearing here, a nick or two won't hurt anything in my opinion and have never had anything bad happen in this instance. Just don't get rough pulling the old cam and installing the new one.

ron67fb · May 13, 2007

There are cam install/remove tools on the market which is basically a screwdriver handle you bolt onto the cam. I just bolt on the cam gear and use that as a handle.

cheap cam+Lifters?

65'Pony

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