cheap horsepower mods

go with 12* timing, remove the silencer, get a cold air kit or at least a k&n filter
sythetic oil,gear lube, and ps fluid
water wetter,180* stat , 3.73 or 4.10 gears(what they can't see they can't know) gears are the single cheapest mod that will give you the biggest bang for your buck.

try that and go from there

Get a little shot of nitrous just tell them it is for cooling the intake or something.

port your intake. very cheap and should get you 15-20 iv heard

deadlast said:

port your intake. very cheap and should get you 15-20 iv heard

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and he is gonna take the intake off, send it off to be ported, and put it all on without his parents knowing how?



Get a H or X pipe and catback exhaust and tell them its for sound quality and has no performance gains at all. Call ahead and then even have the muffler place tell them that if they dont believe you. Like others said: get a K&N filter and remove the air silencer. That should be the first thing. A new MAF and TB are easy boltons that you can put on while they are at work one day. get a 70-80mmMAF calibrated for 19# injectors and a 65mmTB and EGR plate to match. Also, bolt on a set of underdrive pullies.

Sneaky Pete, Sneaky Pete!!! *couldn't resist"

Previous posts are good indicators. Seriously, I have seen some pretty clever hiding spots for N20.

Id recommend 14 degrees timing at least.. not 12

bump timing, pulleys and remove everything you can do without.

we just had this same thread last month. dont mean to sound like an ass but SEARCH

Scorcher2005 said:

and he is gonna take the intake off, send it off to be ported, and put it all on without his parents knowing how?



Get a H or X pipe and catback exhaust and tell them its for sound quality and has no performance gains at all. Call ahead and then even have the muffler place tell them that if they dont believe you. Like others said: get a K&N filter and remove the air silencer. That should be the first thing. A new MAF and TB are easy boltons that you can put on while they are at work one day. get a 70-80mmMAF calibrated for 19# injectors and a 65mmTB and EGR plate to match. Also, bolt on a set of underdrive pullies.

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or... when its gone for one week, make up an excuse on why your not driving, and keep you car locked. im sure theyll figure out that loud sound is not just for show.

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.



*1.) I got a metal flange adapter from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was over a year ago. Summit Racing may also have one too.

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