checkin spark plugs with removing fuel rails?

ADRENLN · Oct 4, 2006

can this be done? i have never checked the plugs on this car. mainly want to make sure none of them are going to back and destroy my fox heads. i be so damn mad if that happend because of ford!

BurningRubber · Oct 4, 2006

If you are still using the stock fuel rails, no they do not need to be removed. The drivers side is real easy, passengers side you need to remove the air intake and some hoses, but need not touch any fuel related stuff. Youll need some extensions also, but I never needed any swivels or anything.

Thats also providing that your aftermarket heads arent physically different than the stockers on the outside.

the98stang · Oct 5, 2006

http://www.bullittarchive.com/WebHelp/BullittArchive.htm

there ya go bud.

if you put anti-seize on the plugs, use a VERY VERY light coat and put it on the threads ONLY. Torque it to 13 lbs too...

ADRENLN · Oct 5, 2006

thanks guys! yea the pass side looks like a pita. thanks for the link

the98stang · Oct 5, 2006

ADRENLN said:
thanks guys! yea the pass side looks like a pita. thanks for the link

NP

Also make sure the engine is STONE cold when you change the plugs or torque the originals. Let it sit over night.

nwapache · Oct 5, 2006

don't use anti-seize, just torque them to 13 lbs....and check them every 6k miles for proper torque

Mike97gt · Oct 5, 2006

nwapache said:
don't use anti-seize, just torque them to 13 lbs....and check them every 6k miles for proper torque

I agree no need for anti seize, these plugs don't seize to the head just put them in and recheck the tourqe every 3k-6k miles.

MBDiagMan · Oct 5, 2006

The use of copper based anti sieze is NOT for the purpose of preventing thread siezure. It is for the purpose of transferring heat. If you choose to use it, use a THIN coat and DO NOT get it on the business end of the plug, on the threads only.

Regardless of your choice to use or not use anti-zieze, USE A TORQUE WRENCH and torque to 13 ft./lbs. If you do this, there is no need to check torque.

There is no need to remove the fuel rails, but you may have to twist an injector connector out of the way. After removing the COP or plug wire end, depending on which version you have, blow out the debris in the spark plug well using compressed air BEFORE removing the plug.

If you have COPS, be especially carefully with the COP screw on the drivers side front. It is very easy to cross thread this one for some reason.

Also, for the best chance of having no thread pulling problems, only remove the plugs when the engine is COLD, preferably overnight cold, but allow at least 30 minutes after shutdown.

Good luck.

stangGT97 · Oct 5, 2006

MBDiagMan said:
Also, for the best chance of having no thread pulling problems, only remove the plugs when the engine is COLD, preferably overnight cold, but allow at least 30 minutes after shutdown.

30 minutes? My engine stays hot for at least 2-3 hours after shut down, depending on how long i have been driving the car. I wouldn't ever recommend touching the plugs unless the car has been sitting over night, or the motor is 100% stone cold to the touch. And antisieze is put on the extended service platinum plugs to insure they come out easily after being in 60k miles, but thats about all its good for.

rattmeis · Oct 5, 2006

I used a universal joint between the spark plug socket and an 8" extension on my 3/8" ratchet, worked perfectly, and didn't have to swear at all!

the98stang · Oct 5, 2006

Checking the plugs every 3k miles might be overkill but I guess it's better safe then sorry.

Like I said, a very light coat of anti seize if you insist. 13 lbs from the torque wrench...

hotmustang331 · Oct 5, 2006

I changed mine in about a total of around 30 minutes....its very simple. And thats gapping them and everything.

I use liberal amounts of antisieze..only on the threads though. Never had a problem in 52,000 miles....not one problem with this car. We also use anti sieze in my 66s aluminum heads...no problems there either.

As long as none of the threads go into the combustion chamber, I doubt any of that crap will get in the motor. And even if it did, its like a powder stuff when it dries....shouldnt hurt anything. But I dont reccomend aplying it to low on the threads.

bdcardinal · Oct 5, 2006

MBDiagMan said:
If you have COPS, be especially carefully with the COP screw on the drivers side front. It is very easy to cross thread this one for some reason.

im glad someone else noticed this. last few ive done have come out funny and gone in worse. i put them in correct, drop in, turn counterclockwise a half turn, then start turning. i always thought it was something i was doing.

Brute03 · Oct 5, 2006

yea those COP bolts can be a pita sometimes, right now one of mine is just spinning in the hole and wont back out

MBDiagMan · Oct 6, 2006

stangGT97 said:
30 minutes? My engine stays hot for at least 2-3 hours after shut down, depending on how long i have been driving the car. I wouldn't ever recommend touching the plugs unless the car has been sitting over night, or the motor is 100% stone cold to the touch. And antisieze is put on the extended service platinum plugs to insure they come out easily after being in 60k miles, but thats about all its good for.

You might notice that in my statement I indicated that cooling overnight was best.

stangGT97 · Oct 6, 2006

MBDiagMan said:
You might notice that in my statement I indicated that cooling overnight was best.

I did notice that, just saying that if over night isn't possible, 30 minutes will not cut it.

MBDiagMan · Oct 7, 2006

Sorry stangnet, I must not have read your post thoroughly enough.

That said, although I HIGHLY recommend not touching plugs unless it has set overnight, I have changed a number of these with only 30 minutes cooling time with no trouble. It's not the most comfortable job you will ever do, especially on an August Texas day, but it will work if you are a risk taker.

hotmustang331 · Oct 7, 2006

^ Who is stangnet? You mean stangGT97?

checkin spark plugs with removing fuel rails?

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