Clutch cable problems

Is the point of engagement right on the floorboard? If so, adjusting the clutch's friction point would be the place to start.

If the point of engagement is relatively high up on the pedal, the clutch itself might have issues.

You have a cheap auto-store replacement cable that has stretched out. Get a Ford OEM cable. If you need an extended cable for some reason, you can go with a '95+ cable and cut off the plastic piece at the firewall to make it work. I had to use one to keep the cable away from my turbos.

Ford cables and Steeda cables are good quality, all of the rest aren't. I went through the pain of 3 auto-store replacements with different brands and within a short period of time, I adjusted them to the max and had a terribly tough pedal and ended up stretching them out.

Do not wait long because you are damaging the tranny every time you shift.

Chris

Clutch adjustment
Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works.

Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

I cut a slot in some 1" flat washers and put them between the firewall and the firewall adjuster, then re adjusted the cable at the tranny. Had to play with diffrent thickness to get it right, but it solved my problem.