Clutch grabs at the very top. Slips high gears.

C

click

New Member

Nov 13, 2003

142

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0

Jun 4, 2009

#1

• Jun 4, 2009

• #1

Hello guys. More clutch trouble for me.

So starting off in first gear it engages nearly at the top. Gears 2-5 I can't step on the gas pedal or else the clutch slips and the engines revs. The cable has slack of it which I thought would lower the engagement? The fork when the pedal is at rest (all the way up) is up against bellhousing wall.

I have a Ford Racing quadrant, the Ford Racing adjustable cable and no FWA. I am not sure what to do. I have tried tighten and loosening the cable with no luck. The clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, TOB, cable, and quadrant were all replaced maybe 10k miles ago by a certified mechanic (my brothers friend) and the cable seems to be routed properly from what I've read.

Here's some pics and a video to better illustrate.


<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://img.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v242/clickx/Cars/DSCN1971.flv">

Thanks for your time.

 

Adam95GT

New Member

Aug 14, 2006

2,564

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Burlington, NJ

Jun 4, 2009

#2

• Jun 4, 2009

• #2

can you see if the fork is sitting on the pivot ball correctly?

 

C

click

New Member

Nov 13, 2003

142

0

0

Jun 5, 2009

#3

• Jun 5, 2009

• #3

Yea it looks like it is. I'll look again tomorrow. It's tough cause I don't have anybody do press the clutch pedal while I'm under there to see if it's moving properly.

 

HGFireHazard

Member

Apr 10, 2005

460

0

17

Michigan

Jun 5, 2009

#4

• Jun 5, 2009

• #4

The more slack you have the lower your engagement point will be. However, with a properly adjusted cable the engagement point should be in a position that is closer to the top of the pedal release.

I don't see a sig with any mods, are you heavily modded? Do you have any oil that you can see showing that your rear main seal may be leaking and has contaminated the clutch disc? Other than that the only problem I can think of is that the pressure plate isn't releasing properly causing the slip. Is this a new problem or has it existed since the clutch was installed?

Hope you get it figured out, we'll help the best we can.

 

C

click

New Member

Nov 13, 2003

142

0

0

Jun 5, 2009

#5

• Jun 5, 2009

• #5

Just basic bolt ons. No engine mods. No oil coming from the rear main seal. I agree with the more slack the lower the engagement should be but I have a ton of slack and extremely high engagement to the point in gears 2-5 I never have full engagement and it slips if I give too much throttle. The problem is new. When the clutch was installed it was fine. I'm thinking I may just need to do a new clutch kit again. Screw this King Cobra. What would you guys recommened? Zoom?

 

WhiteCobra95

10 Year Member

May 2, 2006

634

177

74

Jun 5, 2009

#6

• Jun 5, 2009

• #6

It sounds like your clutch is either toast or contaminated to me. If there's slack in the cable when you're off the pedal, the pressure palte, flywheel and clutch disc are somehow not grabbing. Your clutch disc could be history or maybe some oil got in there like the post above. It could also be an assembly issue like the fork isn't setup correctly.

 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member

May 20, 2006

2,051

20

99

J-Ville, FL

Jun 6, 2009

#7

• Jun 6, 2009

• #7

Oil would not cause the fork to be sitting against the bellhousing all the way back WHILE still causing the throw out bearing to be sitting against the pressure plate!

Here's my theory: The mechanic went ahead and replaced your pivot ball, but either he didn't screw it in all the way or it was loose and has vibrated out over time. Now, logic would suggest that the pivot ball stud would rather screw inward than out, but these cars defy logic time and time again. So what's happening is the pressure plate has become your "new" pivot point causing the end of the fork to push back and against the bellhousing.

Either way, whatever has caused the tension in your clutch system has also prematurely worn out your clutch. So while you're in there replacing the clutch you can check everything out.

 

C

click

New Member

Nov 13, 2003

142

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0

Jun 6, 2009

#8

• Jun 6, 2009

• #8

Thanks guys. Guess it's time to drop the tranny and do work.

 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member

May 20, 2006

2,051

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99

J-Ville, FL

Jun 7, 2009

#9

• Jun 7, 2009

• #9

I love how you worded that..."Do Work"! It's like ahhhh $h!T do I have to?!?!

 

TrueBlue95GT

Member

Sep 29, 2003

966

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16

Connecticut

Jun 7, 2009

#10

• Jun 7, 2009

• #10

check how tight the pressure plate bolts to flywheel are also. If they backed out, it could do the same thing as well as be very dangerous...I don't care how certified a mechanic is, some cut corners and don't use loctite.

 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member

May 20, 2006

2,051

20

99

J-Ville, FL

Jun 8, 2009

#11

• Jun 8, 2009

• #11

TrueBlue95GT said:

check how tight the pressure plate bolts to flywheel are also. If they backed out, it could do the same thing as well as be very dangerous...I don't care how certified a mechanic is, some cut corners and don't use loctite.

Click to expand...

+1, good call! Loctite is such cheap insurance when it comes to drivetrain fasteners!