Clutch Quad
- Thread starter Chuckster88
- Start date
JonJon
Founding Member
When you push your clutch pedal in, it causes the clutch quadrant to pivot and pull on the clutch cable. The clutch cable is connected to the clutch fork/release fork.
The rest is explained well by howstuffworks.com
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch2.htm
The rest is explained well by howstuffworks.com
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch2.htm
JonJon
Founding Member
Oh, the quadrant has hooks where the end of the clutch cable are held. That is why there are double hook quadrants and even triple hooks. I believe they are there for more adjustability (if you have other aftermarket clutch accessories) and maybe for quicker clutch release/engagement.
yeah those hooks change the ratio.. so you will get a softer or harder clutch too push..
BTW get a quad and firewall adjuster if your a stick.. the stock quad sucks ass..
BTW get a quad and firewall adjuster if your a stick.. the stock quad sucks ass..
JonJon
Founding Member
Both shops I've been to recommended keeping the stock quadrant because it's self adjusting. I kind of wish I kept it stock as I've been having a bitch of a time getting the TOB to stay quiet.MikeZ28 said:
I only replaced everything because I was having weird pedal vibrations after my clutch install. Then later to find out it was a bent input shaft so I could've kept the adjuster/quad stock.
JonJon said:Both shops I've been to recommended keeping the stock quadrant because it's self adjusting. I kind of wish I kept it stock as I've been having a bitch of a time getting the TOB to stay quiet.
I only replaced everything because I was having weird pedal vibrations after my clutch install. Then later to find out it was a bent input shaft so I could've kept the adjuster/quad stock.
john that stock self adjuster is never the correct adjustment.. i drive a lot of other stangs at work... and the auto adjuster is always too loose.. thats most of the reason for the T/O bearing issues..
shops don't like the aftermarket non auto one.. because it's a extra step they have too do... (adjusting it)
if your tob is noisy then bring the adjustment tighter untill the noise goes away.. then get in the car and put it in first gear with the engine running.. slowly let of the pedal and feel where it engages.. you should have atleast 7/8 of a inch free play before the car starts moving... if you dont you will gring the crap out of the syncros on fast upshifts...
i have seen cars come in with the clutch pedal vibrating with the stock quad.. this is because the adjustment is so far off that the t/o beaing is 100 percent off the presuure plate.. ford recomends quad replacement with another POS stock quad when this happens...
trust me the stock quad is horrible..
JonJon
Founding Member
I never had problems with the stock quad until I had the clutch replaced and somehow, incidentally the input shaft got bent. The pedal would shake and wobble like crazy so I changed the quad/adjuster and it stopped some of the shaking. Eventually the input shaft got fixed and now my TOB just won't shut up on some days. I use the clutch pedal adjuster to slowly put pressure (pressing down on the clutch pedal) to quiet it but then I can smell the clutch burningMikeZ28 said:
I can't get it fine tuned enough.
maybe your TOB is too far gone... i have adjusted a few cars with the firewall adjuster and have had no problems doing it.. but i have yet seen th stock quadrant work with any aftermarket clutches... the pedal is always too low...
JonJon
Founding Member
The installer said the TOB was in great shape so that's why he didn't replace it. I don't know why he didn't ask me, I would've told him to replace itMikeZ28 said:
I assumed a clutch swap included TOB. Foolish of me.My pedal was actually higher than stock after FRPP HD clutch, another reason I got aftermarket quadrant/adjuster.
always install a new TOB when doing a clutch.. BTW because somebody works on cars don't mean they know what they are doing... and your sure you had a bent input shaft??? and it was drivable... a vibrating clutch pedal 9-10 times is due too the clutch adjustment being way off...
JonJon
Founding Member
He was recommended by a few Mustang guys in the regional board here.MikeZ28 said:
Something was definately wrong and not clutch adjustment. He put the car on a lift and when you looked at the pressure plate, you could see it wobble. So I asked him if it was an improper install, like improper torquing of the pressure plate? He said he really would rather not take it apart again yet and that he'd been doing clutches for 16+ years and really doubted that was the problem. He said he checked everything else and reluctantly, a week later, took apart the clutch and said everything was perfect. He even said the clutch still looked brand new. That's when he told me he thinks it was the input shaft and dropped the tranny off somewhere to be worked on
This is all over the phone (Except the part where we looked at the pressure plate) since his shop was 40 miles away and I obviously had no car. He was a great guy though, except with returning my calls. Busy guy.
.... which now that i actually think about it, how the hell would the input shaft have any effect on the pressure plate wobbling IN NEUTRAL???
i'm not car savvy enough, maybe i'm misunderstanding something
JonJon said:He was recommended by a few Mustang guys in the regional board here.
Something was definately wrong and not clutch adjustment. He put the car on a lift and when you looked at the pressure plate, you could see it wobble. So I asked him if it was an improper install, like improper torquing of the pressure plate? He said he really would rather not take it apart again yet and that he'd been doing clutches for 16+ years and really doubted that was the problem. He said he checked everything else and reluctantly, a week later, took apart the clutch and said everything was perfect. He even said the clutch still looked brand new. That's when he told me he thinks it was the input shaft and dropped the tranny off somewhere to be worked on
This is all over the phone (Except the part where we looked at the pressure plate) since his shop was 40 miles away and I obviously had no car. He was a great guy though, except with returning my calls. Busy guy.
.... which now that i actually think about it, how the hell would the input shaft have any effect on the pressure plate wobbling IN NEUTRAL???
i'm not car savvy enough, maybe i'm misunderstanding something
i think you got butt raped ont his one... it sounds too me like he messed up the clutch install and found a way too blame it on somthing else...
ok this is why that sounds BS too me. if only the input shaft was bent then it would be undriveable... the pressure plate is spline fit onto the input shaft so if the input was warped the flywheel would have too be too... how much did he charge you too "FIX" this problem... if you could see it wobble this car must have been undriveable...
JonJon
Founding Member
It was $150 for tranny work and $100 labor for moving the tranny or something like that. He didn't charge for diagnosing. something like that. i was reluctant to pay at first but he convinced me it wasn't his fault, else he wouldn't charge me if it was his fault. i really liked him, it's just that i didn't have my car for ~2 weeks and I had to pay for thatMikeZ28 said:
anyways, the car DID drive but the clutch pedal would shake pretty bad. i don't really know how to describe the pressure plate except that it was wobbling. a friend had HIS friend who was a ford tech look at it, he was the one that recommended asking about if the pressure plate was torqued correctly and if it was properly aligned to the input shaft or whatever. he didn't think it could be a bent input shaft and also said that the input shaft is VERY hard to bent.
btw, thanks for you knowledge 
i was really pissed off about the whole situation back thenSimilar threads
