My car's been not running for 6 months now. Finally got codes pulled. Code 543 is all that came up. Fuel pump secondary circuit failure. Anybody know where I should look first? Apparently it's a fault on the fuel pump circuit somewhere between the battery and the PCM. But that's all greek to me...
code 543 fuel pump circuit fault
- Thread starter im2damncool
- Start date
Have you stalled the car or tripped the inertia switch any time since the battery was last disconnected or the codes cleared? The FP monitor can pick this up for those reasons (never assume it to be so, but this is often a ghost code).
Good luck.
Good luck.
I don't think so, but it's been so long since it even started that I can't say what happened before that. That was a LOT of beers ago. Actually the battery has been disconnected numerous times in the last few weeks while I've been messing with things so I guess it's a fresh code???
I think you've replied to my other questions about checking for spark and fuel pressure. I've found that I have both of those. And I realized the reason I wasn't able to pull any codes before is because I had disconected and not fully re-connected the main computer cable. (jack-assery) Anyway, it's a slow learning process for me and what I know at this point is:
1. the car turns over but won't start.
2. I have spark at the spark plugs (screwdriver/manifold reddish spark)
3. I have fuel squirting out of the schrader valve (they want a lot for a fuel pressure gauge for my '94 5.0 so I've just tried this)
4. in an effort to get it to start I've replaced the distributor cap and the fuel pump and of course checked the fuses.
5. The inertia switch in the trunk is in the correct position but I don't know how to tell if it's actually properly engaged or working
I want to take a girl from work out and really want to get this thing running soon. But am a total novice. UUUUuuuugggghhhhh !!!!!!
I think you've replied to my other questions about checking for spark and fuel pressure. I've found that I have both of those. And I realized the reason I wasn't able to pull any codes before is because I had disconected and not fully re-connected the main computer cable. (jack-assery) Anyway, it's a slow learning process for me and what I know at this point is:
1. the car turns over but won't start.
2. I have spark at the spark plugs (screwdriver/manifold reddish spark)
3. I have fuel squirting out of the schrader valve (they want a lot for a fuel pressure gauge for my '94 5.0 so I've just tried this)
4. in an effort to get it to start I've replaced the distributor cap and the fuel pump and of course checked the fuses.
5. The inertia switch in the trunk is in the correct position but I don't know how to tell if it's actually properly engaged or working
I want to take a girl from work out and really want to get this thing running soon. But am a total novice. UUUUuuuugggghhhhh !!!!!!
2. Red spark is no good. If the battery is fully charged, throw a spare ignition coil on there if you have one (half the EEC-IV Fords out there use the same coil).
3. If you have the cheddar, a diagnostic fuel pressure gauge is a great tool to have and you'll use it in the future. They're 30-40 bucks at local parts stores. Just like you said, fuel squirting out of the a Schrader valve at 20 PSI is nearly as impressive as if it came out at 35 PSI.
If the fuel pump works and the Schrader valve can repeatedly squirt fuel, the inertia switch should be closed (working). If it pops, you will have no fuel delivery to the lines.
It is possible that you have a relay issue inside the CCRM. If you find that you do not have the pump priming, I wrote an easy to understand diagnostic tech note awhile back that I can post (it covers testing the wiring for both fans, the FP relay and the EEC relay as I recall).
Good luck.
Doesn't sound like you need to check any wiring right now.
Spark tester on the cheap: Take an old plug and set it with the threads sitting on the upper intake. Pull a plug wire off a cylinder's plug and install the plug wire into your spare plug. Now test spark. Using a spare plug allows you to see the quality of spark over the correct gap and it's cheap.
If a spark is anything but nice and blue, there are issues. A spark should look awesome at 1 ATM, considering that normally it's being suscepted to a lot of pressure, turbulence and media.
I would not forget about that code but I would monitor it and see if it reoccurs.
Good luck.
Spark tester on the cheap: Take an old plug and set it with the threads sitting on the upper intake. Pull a plug wire off a cylinder's plug and install the plug wire into your spare plug. Now test spark. Using a spare plug allows you to see the quality of spark over the correct gap and it's cheap.
If a spark is anything but nice and blue, there are issues. A spark should look awesome at 1 ATM, considering that normally it's being suscepted to a lot of pressure, turbulence and media.
I would not forget about that code but I would monitor it and see if it reoccurs.
Good luck.
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