Still having issues with car not starting. Have posted twice before on related issues (Coil Bad? & Erratic TPS) that have been fixed but now onto code 96.
After I replaced the coil last week I noticed far more spark coming from my coil wire than before but car still wouldn't start. Playing with it today and pressed the fuel pressure valve and got mostly air. Primed it a few times by turning the key on & off but still got air. Gas tank is definitely low so I put a gallon in the tank and it started right up! I ran around the block at various speeds and it ran great. Got back home, turned it off and now it will crank but not start again. Ran codes and got 15, 21 / 96. (yes, I added more gas to make sure that wasn't the problem!)
15 is likely due to my battery dying a month or so ago and even though I have a new one in the car it hasn't started in over 3 months with the exception of today. I could be wrong but I think after driving for a couple of days this should clear. If I remove the SCT chip the code will go away.
21 could just be due to the fact that it's cold out right now. Testing in 50 degrees or so...
Code 96 - First off, I am now getting fuel at the Schrader valve - no more air. With key in On position I can hear the fuel pump start up. Lasts about 2 seconds (as it always has) then cuts off. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and when the key is turned on pressue jumps immediately to 38-39 psi. As soon as the pump turns back off pressure drops to 29 psi then continues to fall slowly to under 20 psi. I jumpered the fuel pump and ground in the test connector and the pump comes on and stays on. Fuel pressue stays at 38-39 psi while pump is running. Green/yellow wire has full volts at relay; Pink/black wire has full volts at relay. I even tried cranking the car with the fuel pump jumpered to stay on but it still didn't start.
One more thing. While the car has been sitting for over 3 months there hasn't been much gas in the tank. After driving it and trying to get it to start again as I primed the pump (key on & off) I could hear somewhat of a grinding noise coming from the pump. But as it did it a few more times it went away and sounded smooth again.
I have a spare fuel pump but really don't want to have to drop the tank and replace it just to see if this is the problem. I've read through the various checklists put out by jrichker, who I thank tremendously for getting this far, but before I run back through them all again wanted to see if anyone had suggestions based on some of the testing I have done.
After I replaced the coil last week I noticed far more spark coming from my coil wire than before but car still wouldn't start. Playing with it today and pressed the fuel pressure valve and got mostly air. Primed it a few times by turning the key on & off but still got air. Gas tank is definitely low so I put a gallon in the tank and it started right up! I ran around the block at various speeds and it ran great. Got back home, turned it off and now it will crank but not start again. Ran codes and got 15, 21 / 96. (yes, I added more gas to make sure that wasn't the problem!)
15 is likely due to my battery dying a month or so ago and even though I have a new one in the car it hasn't started in over 3 months with the exception of today. I could be wrong but I think after driving for a couple of days this should clear. If I remove the SCT chip the code will go away.
21 could just be due to the fact that it's cold out right now. Testing in 50 degrees or so...
Code 96 - First off, I am now getting fuel at the Schrader valve - no more air. With key in On position I can hear the fuel pump start up. Lasts about 2 seconds (as it always has) then cuts off. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and when the key is turned on pressue jumps immediately to 38-39 psi. As soon as the pump turns back off pressure drops to 29 psi then continues to fall slowly to under 20 psi. I jumpered the fuel pump and ground in the test connector and the pump comes on and stays on. Fuel pressue stays at 38-39 psi while pump is running. Green/yellow wire has full volts at relay; Pink/black wire has full volts at relay. I even tried cranking the car with the fuel pump jumpered to stay on but it still didn't start.
One more thing. While the car has been sitting for over 3 months there hasn't been much gas in the tank. After driving it and trying to get it to start again as I primed the pump (key on & off) I could hear somewhat of a grinding noise coming from the pump. But as it did it a few more times it went away and sounded smooth again.
I have a spare fuel pump but really don't want to have to drop the tank and replace it just to see if this is the problem. I've read through the various checklists put out by jrichker, who I thank tremendously for getting this far, but before I run back through them all again wanted to see if anyone had suggestions based on some of the testing I have done.