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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Convertible motor problems!

  • Thread starter Thread starter mo_dingo
  • Start date Start date Jan 28, 2004

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Jan 28, 2004
#1
  • Jan 28, 2004
  • #1
Well, since I can still drop the top every once in a while during winter, I wanted to fix it. Here is the situation.

The top would go up, but I had to "help" it a little to start with. After that, it would go all the way up on it's own. But sometimes I had to really struggle to get it started.

Anyway, I took out the back seat, and examined the motor/lines/cylinders. The passenger side cylinder is leaking slightly. Both the top and bottom lines had ATF on them.

I refilled the pump, and tried raising/lowering the top to get an exact location of the leak. Nothing. The leak must be too small to leak immediately.

So, after I filled the pump, the top was 10x harder to raise. I don't think I can do it by myself now anymore.

I assume I need to bleed the system. But how the heck do I bleed the air out?

There are 4 lines in the system. One that attaches to the bottom of the cylinder, and one that attaches to the top of the cylinder. Both cylinders are exactly the same. Both top lines from both cylinders come together into a t-junction, then go to the pump. Same for the bottom lines.

I removed the valve that attaches to the pump from the top lines. I then ran the pump w/ the pump plugged up, and no fluid came out of the top lines!!! What is going on.

I assume the pump pumps fluid from the bottom, which pushes the cylinder up. Wouldn't I need the top lines disconnected to bleed the system? Why am I not getting anything out of it. I did leave the rubber fill plug IN the pump while I was attempting to bleed the system.

If anyone has any instruction on how to bleed the system correctly, I would greatly appreciate it. Or, if the system does not require bleeding, is my pump bad?
Thanks!!
Scott
 

Slow5.0

Active Member
Feb 13, 2003
2,554
0
46
Portland, OR
Jan 29, 2004
#2
  • Jan 29, 2004
  • #2
I can help you out because I had same problem like you , I have to lifted left side little bit than top go it self ,
Problem is top cylinder , my is broken on top(plastic piece) so I change with one from junk yard , and forks like new now , about bleading , there is only one way for that , when you put oil(meckron III same oil like tranny oil) leave plun out of reservoair , and a few times take top down and up I did 15 tomes than put more oil and did a few times more and don't put too much oil in reservoair ,when oil start come out thats level
I hope so this helps

Ernie
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Jan 29, 2004
#3
  • Jan 29, 2004
  • #3
Do I leave the motor mounted to the bracket while bleeding the system? Or do I need to tip the motor so the filler hole is pointing up?

So leave the rubber plunger out of the pump, raise the top up and down until tranny fluid comes out of the hole, then put the rubber plunger back in, and i'm done?

Thanks Ernie!!!
Scott
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Jan 29, 2004
#4
  • Jan 29, 2004
  • #4
ttt
 

Slow5.0

Active Member
Feb 13, 2003
2,554
0
46
Portland, OR
Jan 29, 2004
#5
  • Jan 29, 2004
  • #5
Ok , here is what I do , I lifted up right side of motor (side where is rubber plunger) left side I leave in bracket than I fill little bit oil , than I lower that side and I bleeding the system , I fill up oil two times than I filled up 3rd time and I lowr right side into bracket than oil start come out and I just plug rubber plunger into motor reservoair and yes rubber plunger have to be out while bleeding the system, This is only option, and I find this insrtuction at Ford dealer and works great

Ernie
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Jan 30, 2004
#6
  • Jan 30, 2004
  • #6
Thanks Ernie! I appreciate it very much. I couldn't find anything in the haynes or chilton manuals on this!

I'll post back when I do this friday night. I wanted to be able to drop the top saturday. It's going to be in the high 60's, low 70's tomorrow afternoon.

:OT: The bottom seat cushions are a PITA to remove. I needed a frickin prybar!!!
Scott
 

Slow5.0

Active Member
Feb 13, 2003
2,554
0
46
Portland, OR
Jan 30, 2004
#7
  • Jan 30, 2004
  • #7
You welcome , you know ,many people / guys here help me a lot ,so now is my turn to help somebody if I can

About the bottom seat cushions , there are two plastic white buttons(or whatever you call) under bottom seat one on each side , you will see,than push that "buttons" and lifted up cushions, and thats it
 

mustangt562

Member
Jan 22, 2004
226
0
16
Long Beach
Jan 30, 2004
#8
  • Jan 30, 2004
  • #8
install instructions

a guy on the corral i think its 'shawn95gtrag' posted the entire installiation and disassemble of the pistons with digi pics. he really did a great job.

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=434956&highlight=shawn
 

Slow5.0

Active Member
Feb 13, 2003
2,554
0
46
Portland, OR
Jan 30, 2004
#9
  • Jan 30, 2004
  • #9
I havd same problem like this guy from Corral.net , broken top cylinder mouns/bracket
 
J

jh0

New Member
Aug 14, 2008
3
0
2
Oct 7, 2011
#10
  • Oct 7, 2011
  • #10
mustangt562 said:
a guy on the corral i think its 'shawn95gtrag' posted the entire installiation and disassemble of the pistons with digi pics. he really did a great job.

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=434956&highlight=shawn
Click to expand...

Here's the updated link How To: Replace convertible top lift cylinder - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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