Cooling Fans staying on all the time.....errrr

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NC_Mustang_Man

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May 21, 2007

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Jun 6, 2007

#1

• Jun 6, 2007

• #1

Well I fixed the AC problem and right after I leave the shop the check engine light comes on, so I was like well heck the car is running fine, I figured it was the O2 sensor or something, well I drove it the next day and it would come one after the car was running for about 5 mins. Then the next day it never came on, so now 2days later and its not came on again, beats the piss outta me. But I have noticed something my cooling fans running from about 15 seconds after the car is cranked until I shut it off, they didn't used to do that, it just started happening after the check engine light went off. So I was wondering what could be causing this issue, I have read about other guys having problems with this, just wondering what could be the issue. I tried to use a cheap scan tool my buddy has and it wouldn't make a connection with the car, keep reading connection error, I take it that the scan tool was messed up. But like I said the car runs great I just know those fans shouldn't be running non stop.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Jun 6, 2007

#2

• Jun 6, 2007

• #2

Look to see if your ECT circuit is open. This will make the fan come on non-stop with the key on as a system safeguard (since it doesnt know the engine temps otherwise).

Good luck.

 

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NC_Mustang_Man

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May 21, 2007

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Jun 6, 2007

#3

• Jun 6, 2007

• #3

I will check it out and go from there.

Thanks

 

Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005

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Jun 6, 2007

#4

• Jun 6, 2007

• #4

sounds like the scan tool might have been for an obd-2 car. you'll need an obd-1 scanner--Advance and/or Autozone will scan the codes for you for free.

i also have a slight hunch that the shop you took it to may have hardwired your fans to come on w/ your a/c (even the high-speed fan comes on w/ Max A/C)... but that's just a hunch...


but yeah, i'd check what JT said, then get the codes pulled--that's the easiest and cheapest thing to start w/ when it comes to the Check Engine light.

 

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NC_Mustang_Man

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May 21, 2007

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Jun 6, 2007

#5

• Jun 6, 2007

• #5

Just to clear things up, I just ran it by a local shop this afternoon and he had a cheap little actron scan tool and it was an OBD I scan tool, I hooked it up, his scan tool just wouldn't make a connection with my car. My local Advance or Autozone done away with OBD I checks and only check OBD II cars now, I know its stupid and I have no clue why they did. The fans never messed up till after the check engine light came on, which I know on F-Body's which I am much more knowledge about, when the check engine light comes on the fans will come on automatically. The fans always kicked on when they were suppose to prior to the check engine light situation, now they run non stop when the car is running but the check engine light is off. The fans run regardless, ac on or no ac on. I fix the AC, it was just a low pressure switch. Then the check engine light came on for a couple days off and on, and it has been off for 2 days now. But now the dang fans run all the time. Punisher Im not trying to be jerk, but you talked to me like I was a idot, I do have some knowledge, this is my first SN95 and (Im kinda out in no mans land with this car, nothing like a foxbody in my eyes)it will prob be my last,


Also the car was never worked on at all, this is the first issue I have had with it, my vechiles does't go to any shop unless Im getting my truck greased, I do all my wrenching myself, Im just far from an expert with electrical.

 

Blackened302

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Jun 6, 2007

#6

• Jun 6, 2007

• #6

NC_Mustang_Man said:

Punisher Im not trying to be jerk, but you talked to me like I was a idot, I do have some knowledge, this is my first SN95 and (Im kinda out in no mans land with this car, nothing like a foxbody in my eyes)it will prob be my last,


Also the car was never worked on at all, this is the first issue I have had with it, my vechiles does't go to any shop unless Im getting my truck greased, I do all my wrenching myself, Im just far from an expert with electrical.

Click to expand...

i wasn't trying to undermine you.

i was simply pointing out that there is often confusion regarding whether our cars are obd-1 or 2 because they have both connections.

other than that, i can't see where else you would take offense..

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Jun 7, 2007

#7

• Jun 7, 2007

• #7

I'll back Paul up on this - we don't know eachother personally and there have been countless threads about morons at stores trying to pull codes from the OBD-II port. Now whomever is the first to post on a thread like this always has to ask, and half the time, indeed someone was trying to pull codes from inside the car. Take no offense by it (Paul would give me the same advice if I posted your dilemma, and people even kinda know me. It's just an automatic reply).

I'm sure you're familiar with answering similar questions about it on F-bodies too (that BS where OBD-I cars after '93 needing a scan tool, IIRC). We love quirks.

Anyhow, keep trying for those codes bud. It's nice to have a little help with this EFI stuff (I know I take all the assistance I can get).

Please clarify: do you have aftermarket fans? I saw you reference fans but we only have one (two speed) fan in OEM form. I thought it might just be a carryover from the thought of two fans from your F-body but we should be sure.

Absent code info, I guess I would start checking fan wiring if that's the biggest issue right now. Have the car below 200*F and the AC off. Look for ground at CCRM Pin 17 when the fan is on (but it should not be). If there's no ground signal at Pin 17, look for 12 volts at CCRM Pin 14. If neither is present but your fan is on, check CCRM pins 1 and 2 for power. If no power, check CCRM pins 6 and 7 for power. The former is low speed and the latter is high speed. If Pins 14 and 17 are dead but either 1 and 2 or 6 and 7 have power, that suggests a latched relay inside the CCRM.

Those quick tests should give us a direction to go.

Good luck bud.

 

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NC_Mustang_Man

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May 21, 2007

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Jun 7, 2007

#8

• Jun 7, 2007

• #8

I wasn't mad at Paul, I understand the situation, hard to clear everything up about the problem unless you are here at the time, we are just communciating through words. Im going to find someone tomorrow to pull the codes for me, and hopefully it will tell me something. BTW would the low pressure switch have anything to do with the fans running all the time, I heard that on 4.6s that it could be an issue, just wondering. Also sorry it a factory fan, I don't know why I said fans, I guess Im still stuck in my F Body world....HAHA

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Jun 7, 2007

#9

• Jun 7, 2007

• #9

NC_Mustang_Man said:

I wasn't mad at Paul, I understand the situation, hard to clear everything up about the problem unless you are here at the time, we are just communciating through words. Im going to find someone tomorrow to pull the codes for me, and hopefully it will tell me something. BTW would the low pressure switch have anything to do with the fans running all the time, I heard that on 4.6s that it could be an issue, just wondering. Also sorry it a factory fan, I don't know why I said fans, I guess Im still stuck in my F Body world....HAHA

Click to expand...

The LPCS should not affect the cooling fan.
The systems are not nearly as intermingled on our cars (vs OBD-II 4.6's).

 

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NC_Mustang_Man

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May 21, 2007

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Jun 7, 2007

#10

• Jun 7, 2007

• #10

Well I went up to a mechanic house I know and used his scan tool tonight, it was mearly a couple EGR codes, say the system was inoperative, found a hard vaccum line to the egr system broke right in half, I fixed it, but I can't say if the fans are still running or not cause the car was still warm when it was cut off and cut back on, so therefore I won't know until I crank the car tomorrow. If they are still running Im going to check through the system and hopefully it will show me something, I leave for the beach a week for tomorrow and I hope I can get this situation fixed before that trip, Im just not wild about driving around with the fan on all the time.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Jun 8, 2007

#11

• Jun 8, 2007

• #11

When you yanked codes, did each fan speed cycle at the beginning of the test?

Did I ever post (here or on the Corral or in a PM) which CCRM wires I would test to see if a relay is latched?

There are worse things than having the fan on all the time (some folks wire it up that way). The only kicker is that if it's high speed, it can take a toll on the fan motor and if it's low speed, the car can run hot when it's pretty hot outside.

Good luck.

 

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NC_Mustang_Man

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May 21, 2007

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Jun 8, 2007

#12

• Jun 8, 2007

• #12

yeah the fans cycled when we yanked the codes

 

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NC_Mustang_Man

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May 21, 2007

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Jun 8, 2007

#13

• Jun 8, 2007

• #13

Well I got the fan situation fixed, it was that high pressure switch, it was messed up, took it back and got one from a bone yard off a 94 GT, yanked it myself, and it worked perfect(fans didnt run until the car reached right a 205,I put a guage in her today) and the ac still worked great too. Took me forever to do troulbe shooting through all data but it finally paid off. I also have another question, with the Check Engine light setting the codes for the EGR system someone put a delete pulley on it, I didnt noticed it, and Im not pulling vaccum from the red line going to the EGR, I know the check engine light being on isnt a big issue esp. for those codes, but just wondering what I could do to fix it?

Thanks for all the help so far

 

HISSIN50

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Jun 9, 2007

#14

• Jun 9, 2007

• #14

NC_Mustang_Man said:

I also have another question, with the Check Engine light setting the codes for the EGR system someone put a delete pulley on it.........

Click to expand...

Please clarify. I think you accidentally have the EGR and A.I.R (smog) systems confused. They are completely separate systems.

If it is truely an EGR code and the vac is related to it, See if there is vacuum going to the EGR solenoid. The solenoid has manifold vac going to it at all times. It uses a signal from the computer to dump the solenoid and provide the EGR valve itself with vacuum.

If this is simply about a lack of vacuum to the AM1 and AM2 (for the A.I.R. system/smog pump), just make sure the vacuum connections are air tight. Since the AIR pump isnt doing anything, those solenoids are worthless right now. You just dont want a vac leak from 'em.

Good luck.

 

reddy351

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Jun 13, 2006

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Jun 9, 2007

#15

• Jun 9, 2007

• #15

Wow! Hissin! Just, wow!!!!

 

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NC_Mustang_Man

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May 21, 2007

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Jun 9, 2007

#16

• Jun 9, 2007

• #16

I was reffering to someone putting a delete pulley where the smog pump was, Codes are 311 and 314 inoperative on both sides. I aslo noted I wasn't pulling vaccum, I will just have to track down the vaccum leak.