Could this be a starter problem?

[dec322]

My car has been having problems starting. Here are the problems:

Jan. 1, 2007 my car wouldn't start back up when I went to the gas station. I'd turn the key and get a click (one). Then I would have no power (no lights or anything). I took the battery in and it checked out. I then put a screwdriver on the starter solenoid (from ignition to positive) and it started turning over. Then it cranked right up.

About a month ago it wouldn't start. I turned the key and it would click once. Then no power. Using a screwdriver on the soleniod wouldn't work so I replace the solenoid and it cranked (second soleniod in 9 months).

2 weeks ago. Same problem so I checked the cables and everything was fine and tight. I then tried the soleniod trick and it didn't work. I moved the battery cables around to get power after trying to start it (after each try I would take the neg cable off and put it back on to restore power in the car) and tried to start it. Nothing. Try the screwdriver again and it worked.

Yesterday. Won't start. I would click once and then no power. I tried the screwdriver trick and would get some sparks from the positive terminal on the battery. I hooked up some jumper cables and tried to start it but all I would get was some clicks....kinda fast but relatively short.

I don't have any electrical tools (voltmeters) or anything but I can get some if I need to in order to find out the problem.

I might just have to pull the starter and get it tested.

 

[HISSIN50]

The starter is not where I would look at first. It really sounds like a primary side electrical issue. Cables often rot from the inside out - I'd consider renewing the positive battery cable, neg cable and adding an extra motor ground.

I have used a jumper cable in parallel with existing cables to find the deficient one. It is very often the negative battery cable or connection.

Random thoughts.

Good luck.

 

[dec322]

The starter is not where I would look at first. It really sounds like a primary side electrical issue. Cables often rot from the inside out - I'd consider renewing the positive battery cable, neg cable and adding an extra motor ground.

I have used a jumper cable in parallel with existing cables to find the deficient one. It is very often the negative battery cable or connection.

Random thoughts.

Good luck.

Man, Hissin, you always come in my threads and usually solve the problem. Thanks man!

I have already added an extra ground when I put in the 3g alt. But the other cables might be pretty old. If I do replace the cables, should I put the negative grounding at the same spot or is there a better place to put it?

Please explain the "jumper cable in parallel" idea.

 

[HISSIN50]

I'd route the new cables to the same locations as they are originally. Before you spend money on cables, the 'parallel' part can help narrow things down perhaps.

Grab a jumper cable (just one cable - with an aligator clip on each end).

To test my battery ground cable: I put the jumper on my negative battery cable at the terminal and on the engine. Now if the car magically starts from just doing that, I know that the cable I'm paralleling (neg cable) is deficient.

You can do the same thing (albeit very carefully, being worried about a short) with the positive cable. A jump from the positive battery cable to the battery lug of the solenoid works.

You can also parallel your starter cable (from the starter lug on the solenoid to the starter itself).

This is kind of a cheater way of pretending to replace each cable without having to do so.

One more note: I have used just the aligator clip on a jumper cable to test a battery post to battery terminal connection. Just using one jaw: I open the aligator jaw and put one half on the actual battery post and the other half of the jaw on the metal part of the battery cable. If the car magically starts now, you know that you probably have a bad battery connection (power is going through the aligator clip instead of trying to go through the crappy battery connection).

This can really narrow things down so you only need to replace one cable, or really really clean-up one connection. It all takes about 5 minutes.

I hope that kinda made sense.

Good luck.

 

[dec322]

Well, I did as you said a few interesting things happened.

I skipped the negative battery cable and hooked up the battery to a solid ground using the jumpercables. When I turned the key everything worked but all I got was a clicking/grinding noise (starter?).

I then attached the jumper cable to the battery and the negative cable (bypassing the terminal). The car turned over and started (briefly) but as it tried to run the starter continued to try to engage. I pulled the key out and the car continued to turn over. I then pulled the ignition wire off the soleniod but it continued to turn over until I disconnected the battery. Considering that I disconnected the ignition wire and it still tried to turn over, does this mean my soleniod is screwy or is it my ignition switch?

I never got it to run b/c the starter was grinding if I tried to start it while it was turning over by itself.

 

[superhuaman]

if you pulled the little wire off the solenoid, and it kept cranking, then the solenoid is bad. it is easy to ruin solenoids by having bad battery cables. the battery cables will drop voltage (like 12 volts in, 10 volts out, for example). the lower voltage means the starter will draw more amps (like 300 instead of 200, for example). this will put more electrical stress on the starter, battery, and solenoid. sometimes the solenoid will weld itself together.

 

[HISSIN50]

I'd agree about the solenoid. Been there and done that on other vehicles. I'd ensure the battery has a full charge (I should have stated that in my last post as it's the basis for the other tests being valid in the first place).

You will likely have to swap the solenoid out for another.

Good luck.

 

[dec322]

I guess I'll first have to test the battery. The sucky part is that I just replaced this soleniod about 3 weeks ago. I actually had to buy two b/c I broke one of the pegs off by tightening it too much (I was in a hurry).

Today I just touched the negative cable to the battery and it is still trying to turn over if its connected.

I'm thinking my plan will be to replace the soleniod and negative battery cable and terminal. The cable's covering is brittle enough that I can peel it back without using any tools. It also says ford all over it (possibly original).

 

[HISSIN50]

Sounds good. Your solenoid is latched - it will likely keep doing what it's doing (I had a sport bike solenoid do that too).

Some of the parts store solenoids don't seem to hold up too well (if that's what you have).

Good luck.

 

[dec322]

Some of the parts store solenoids don't seem to hold up too well (if that's what you have).

It is what I have. Where should I buy one? Ford?

 

[HISSIN50]

The Ford solenoids do seem to hold up a bit better. Since waiting for something to arrive from an online vendor might not be feasible, another parts-store solenoid might have to suffice (hopefully with a warranty of some sort. ). I honestly don't know what a local dealership charges.

Even if using a parts store unit, I'd still inquire about a Ford unit in case the newest one fails. The online savings might pay for a parts store solenoid anyhow.

 

[dec322]

The Ford solenoids do seem to hold up a bit better. Since waiting for something to arrive from an online vendor might not be feasible, another parts-store solenoid might have to suffice (hopefully with a warranty of some sort. ). I honestly don't know what a local dealership charges.

Even if using a parts store unit, I'd still inquire about a Ford unit in case the newest one fails. The online savings might pay for a parts store solenoid anyhow.

$36 bucks for a ford one. Its worth it to me.

 

[getusummm]

I usually go to napa and get one that is rated for continous duty. They will last much longer than the standard one. Napa has a book with all of their electrical components in it. Just go through until you find one that is rated for 12 volts continous duty and has the connections you need. Here is one for example: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...54140&Description=Solenoid+Switch+-+Universal