Yep. Dropped the tank and pulled the pump completely out. It is still out. Don’t want to reinstall if the pump is bad. I want to try to test it before it goes back in.
Fuel Crank/No-Start Issue
- Thread starter dzolalaw
- Start date
Internal pop-off? I’m not certain if that was mentioned. Is that something on the pump that I can check?
The internal check valve on the pump. You should be getting slightly less than battery voltage at the pump with just the key on. If you are getting that then yeah I would suspect the pump going out.
Mcmahst
5 Year Member
It appears it’s a new pump but purchased like over a year ago? For what it’s worth, since it’s a Aeromotive 340 Stealth pump, I would contact the original seller and see what they can do. That’s not an inexpensive setup and while it may be our if warranty, if it failed, it would be no bueno to me if they blew me off. Usually, if something good happens to you, you tell 3 people; 10 people if something bad happens.
If you do decide to go back to the seller, I would be interested in their response.
If you do decide to go back to the seller, I would be interested in their response.
Do you have a fuel pressure guage? If not rent one from auto zone or get a cheap one from harbor freight for 40 bucks. Hook it up to your pump output, drop it in your tank and see what the pressure is right at the pump. That'll tell ya for sure.
Alternately, you could put the pump in a small container full of gas and run temp power/ground to it if you feel comfortable doing it that way.
Something like this. I dont see a barbed type fitting in this particular kit, but you could use the Tee fitting. Cap off one side of the Tee. Clamp the other side to the pump output with the short section of rubber hose and the hose clamps.
https://www.harborfreight.com/basic-fuel-injection-service-kit-64939.html
Ok, so the internal hose looked perfect upon inspection. However, I wanted to actually watch and see if something was leaking. So I rigged up a setup where I could plug the pump into the car and watch as it primes. When I did this I did notice that there is a slight leak at the hose connection immediately out of the pump. It’s a small leak and intermittent. The first couple times I turned the key you could see the slight leak and then after five or six times it stopped leaking. The piece will be replaced, thank you for putting me onto that! With that said, before I replace and put back in do you think a leak that slight could be the only problem or is there likely a pump and or adequate power supply issue? Voltmeter readings appear to be within range.
Mcmahst
5 Year Member
I think you said initially, you had 20 PSI at the prime. That sounds low to me, but my experience is with Specrta pumps.
Yes. That was the spike in pressure before it rapidly dropped. Prior to the intake swap the pressure was always around a solid 40ish without the drop.
Will do. I ordered a couple pressure kits to try and test it off the car to see if the pump functions properly after replacing the hose.
Thank you everyone. Keep u posted.
Thank you everyone. Keep u posted.
The good news: I now have fuel pressure. I ended up replacing the pump, hanger and all hoses and wiring with brand new stuff. Holding pressure perfectly now.
Thank you to everyone who helped.
The bad news: I still have a crank/no start issue.
Any recommendations on next step? I assume spark.
Thank you to everyone who helped.
The bad news: I still have a crank/no start issue.
Any recommendations on next step? I assume spark.
I agree.. A youtuber called " 2vintage" buys motorcycle, quads, and side by sides that NOBODY can get running of which he fixes......
He is methodical with taking one step at a time... I have seen him get a DOA from a dealer that cannot get it running and he works his way through " spark, fuel, and compression" to make them run again....
I purchased a code reader but it says the car has to be at running temperature before it can provide accurate readings. Since I anm in a crank no start predicament I obviously can’t get it up to running temp.
So instead, for now I have been going down the crank no start list as you suggested. I tested the MSD 6AL and it’s working properly. I pulled the MSD Coil and bench tested both the primary and secondary circuits with my multimeter, it appears ok. HOWEVER, when it is plugged into the car, using an incandescent test light, i turn the key to the on position and nothing. I crank and nothing. I’m not sure why the coil would pass the ohms testing but when plugged into the car I get nothing. Can this be a bad coil or is it something else? I can buy a new coil etc but I want to be able to figure these things out without throwing parts at it just because I can. These cars are old and if I’m going to be able to enjoy it I have to be able to diagnose problems when they arise.
Really appreciate the help. Thank you
89ripper
Founding Member
Per the checklist it says to bypass msd and return to stock configuration in order to troubleshoot. Are you able to do this? I had nothing but problems with those and had to eliminate mine to get my car running right YMMV
I will bet a dollar that your May Suddenly Die (MSD) is likely the issue.
Do you know what it would take to put stock components back on the car?
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