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Fuel Crank/No-Start Issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter dzolalaw
  • Start date Start date Aug 20, 2024
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dzolalaw

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Aug 6, 2016
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#21
  • Aug 24, 2024
  • #21
Mcmahst said:
just to clarify, you checked the hoses inside the fuel tank, right?
Click to expand...
Yep. Dropped the tank and pulled the pump completely out. It is still out. Don’t want to reinstall if the pump is bad. I want to try to test it before it goes back in.
 
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dzolalaw

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Aug 24, 2024
#22
  • Aug 24, 2024
  • #22
Noobz347 said:
At this point, yeah... I would start suspecting the pump if you have no fuel leaking anywhere (including into the intake).

I think somebody already mentioned the internal pop-off in this thread.
Click to expand...
Internal pop-off? I’m not certain if that was mentioned. Is that something on the pump that I can check?
 

Noobz347

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#23
  • Aug 24, 2024
  • #23
dzolalaw said:
Internal pop-off? I’m not certain if that was mentioned. Is that something on the pump that I can check?
Click to expand...



Post #4
AeroCoupe said:
I believe the fuel pump has an internal check valve.
Click to expand...


No. You would need to replace the pump.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#24
  • Aug 24, 2024
  • #24
The internal check valve on the pump. You should be getting slightly less than battery voltage at the pump with just the key on. If you are getting that then yeah I would suspect the pump going out.
 
Reactions: General karthief

Mcmahst

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Aug 24, 2024
#25
  • Aug 24, 2024
  • #25
It appears it’s a new pump but purchased like over a year ago? For what it’s worth, since it’s a Aeromotive 340 Stealth pump, I would contact the original seller and see what they can do. That’s not an inexpensive setup and while it may be our if warranty, if it failed, it would be no bueno to me if they blew me off. Usually, if something good happens to you, you tell 3 people; 10 people if something bad happens.

If you do decide to go back to the seller, I would be interested in their response.
 

nicholase

I lubed and pushed, until it was all the way in
May 21, 2024
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#26
  • Aug 24, 2024
  • #26
dzolalaw said:
Yep. Dropped the tank and pulled the pump completely out. It is still out. Don’t want to reinstall if the pump is bad. I want to try to test it before it goes back in.
Click to expand...

Do you have a fuel pressure guage? If not rent one from auto zone or get a cheap one from harbor freight for 40 bucks. Hook it up to your pump output, drop it in your tank and see what the pressure is right at the pump. That'll tell ya for sure.

Alternately, you could put the pump in a small container full of gas and run temp power/ground to it if you feel comfortable doing it that way.

Something like this. I dont see a barbed type fitting in this particular kit, but you could use the Tee fitting. Cap off one side of the Tee. Clamp the other side to the pump output with the short section of rubber hose and the hose clamps.


https://www.harborfreight.com/basic-fuel-injection-service-kit-64939.html
 
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dzolalaw

Member
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Aug 24, 2024
#27
  • Aug 24, 2024
  • #27
dzolalaw said:
Yep. Dropped the tank and pulled the pump completely out. It is still out. Don’t want to reinstall if the pump is bad. I want to try to test it before it goes back in.
Click to expand...
Ok, so the internal hose looked perfect upon inspection. However, I wanted to actually watch and see if something was leaking. So I rigged up a setup where I could plug the pump into the car and watch as it primes. When I did this I did notice that there is a slight leak at the hose connection immediately out of the pump. It’s a small leak and intermittent. The first couple times I turned the key you could see the slight leak and then after five or six times it stopped leaking. The piece will be replaced, thank you for putting me onto that! With that said, before I replace and put back in do you think a leak that slight could be the only problem or is there likely a pump and or adequate power supply issue? Voltmeter readings appear to be within range.
 

Mcmahst

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#28
  • Aug 24, 2024
  • #28
I think you said initially, you had 20 PSI at the prime. That sounds low to me, but my experience is with Specrta pumps.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#29
  • Aug 24, 2024
  • #29
Can you put a fuel pressure gauge with your test setup?
 
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dzolalaw

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Aug 25, 2024
#30
  • Aug 25, 2024
  • #30
Mcmahst said:
I think you said initially, you had 20 PSI at the prime. That sounds low to me, but my experience is with Specrta pumps.
Click to expand...
Yes. That was the spike in pressure before it rapidly dropped. Prior to the intake swap the pressure was always around a solid 40ish without the drop.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#31
  • Aug 25, 2024
  • #31
Replace the hose between the pump and hanger and try it. If not then it’s drop the tank again. Aeromotive is typically good stuff so I would lean on the side of it being the hose.
 
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dzolalaw

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Aug 6, 2016
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Aug 25, 2024
#32
  • Aug 25, 2024
  • #32
Will do. I ordered a couple pressure kits to try and test it off the car to see if the pump functions properly after replacing the hose.

Thank you everyone. Keep u posted.
 
Reactions: General karthief, Mcmahst and limp
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dzolalaw

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Sep 13, 2024
#33
  • Sep 13, 2024
  • #33
The good news: I now have fuel pressure. I ended up replacing the pump, hanger and all hoses and wiring with brand new stuff. Holding pressure perfectly now.

Thank you to everyone who helped.

The bad news: I still have a crank/no start issue.

Any recommendations on next step? I assume spark.
 
Reactions: Mcmahst

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
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Sep 13, 2024
#34
  • Sep 13, 2024
  • #34
Pull codes and work your way through the crank no start check list. If you have done both of those then you should find the issue.
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#35
  • Sep 13, 2024
  • #35
AeroCoupe said:
Pull codes and work your way through the crank no start check list. If you have done both of those then you should find the issue.
Click to expand...
I agree.. A youtuber called " 2vintage" buys motorcycle, quads, and side by sides that NOBODY can get running of which he fixes......
He is methodical with taking one step at a time... I have seen him get a DOA from a dealer that cannot get it running and he works his way through " spark, fuel, and compression" to make them run again....
 
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dzolalaw

Member
Aug 6, 2016
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Sep 15, 2024
#36
  • Sep 15, 2024
  • #36
AeroCoupe said:
Pull codes and work your way through the crank no start check list. If you have done both of those then you should find the issue.
Click to expand...
I purchased a code reader but it says the car has to be at running temperature before it can provide accurate readings. Since I anm in a crank no start predicament I obviously can’t get it up to running temp.

So instead, for now I have been going down the crank no start list as you suggested. I tested the MSD 6AL and it’s working properly. I pulled the MSD Coil and bench tested both the primary and secondary circuits with my multimeter, it appears ok. HOWEVER, when it is plugged into the car, using an incandescent test light, i turn the key to the on position and nothing. I crank and nothing. I’m not sure why the coil would pass the ohms testing but when plugged into the car I get nothing. Can this be a bad coil or is it something else? I can buy a new coil etc but I want to be able to figure these things out without throwing parts at it just because I can. These cars are old and if I’m going to be able to enjoy it I have to be able to diagnose problems when they arise.

Really appreciate the help. Thank you
 

89ripper

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#37
  • Sep 15, 2024
  • #37
dzolalaw said:
I purchased a code reader but it says the car has to be at running temperature before it can provide accurate readings. Since I anm in a crank no start predicament I obviously can’t get it up to running temp.

So instead, for now I have been going down the crank no start list as you suggested. I tested the MSD 6AL and it’s working properly. I pulled the MSD Coil and bench tested both the primary and secondary circuits with my multimeter, it appears ok. HOWEVER, when it is plugged into the car, using an incandescent test light, i turn the key to the on position and nothing. I crank and nothing. I’m not sure why the coil would pass the ohms testing but when plugged into the car I get nothing. Can this be a bad coil or is it something else? I can buy a new coil etc but I want to be able to figure these things out without throwing parts at it just because I can. These cars are old and if I’m going to be able to enjoy it I have to be able to diagnose problems when they arise.

Really appreciate the help. Thank you
Click to expand...
Per the checklist it says to bypass msd and return to stock configuration in order to troubleshoot. Are you able to do this? I had nothing but problems with those and had to eliminate mine to get my car running right YMMV
 
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dzolalaw

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#38
  • Sep 15, 2024
  • #38
Unfortunately I do not have the stock parts so I have to bypass that part. Purchased it with this stuff on it.
 

Noobz347

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#39
  • Sep 15, 2024
  • #39
dzolalaw said:
Unfortunately I do not have the stock parts so I have to bypass that part. Purchased it with this stuff on it.
Click to expand...

I will bet a dollar that your May Suddenly Die (MSD) is likely the issue.

Do you know what it would take to put stock components back on the car?
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
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#40
  • Sep 15, 2024
  • #40
Pull codes. The only thing it will tell you is that the ECT is not in range so ignore that.
 
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