Crank, No Start, No power on output of inertia switch

I've got a 94 GT. One day it was running fine and a few hours later it did not want to start. It just cranks and cranks.

I went to a buddies house to take some parts off his 95 Cobra (it was running) to test on mine, so i wouldn't have to buy any parts. I swapped out the dizzy, coil, and icm and none of this worked.

I show 39lbs of fuel on my fuel rail gauge.

When I swapped the dizzy, i set the timing wrong and I had a large backfire (sounded like a shotgun). Re-stabbed the dizzy and timing is correct and no more backfire.

I then went on to see if I could hear the pump. Unfortunetly, I got a TREPerformance 255 pump and those are super quite. I only hear the clicking of the relays but not sure if I can hear the pump prime. I then proceeded to check voltage at the ccrm and inertia switch.

The input side of the inertia switch (DGN/YLW) shows 9.7 volts (likely cause of my battery discharging from all the cranking and no charging). The output side (while connected to the switch) shows 0 volts. I proceeded to pull the connector and bypass the switch. After jumping the input and ouput of the connector, I no longer get voltage on either side. If I remove the jumper from the output side, I get 9.7 volts again on the input side.

Is this signs of a bad ground somewhere? or maybe the pump? The diagram I have shows that there are 2 wires to the pump. A PNK/BLK that converts to BRN/PNK and goes to the inertia switch and a GND wire.

Am I missing something? I also swapped out the CCRM but still nothing.

This is the diagram I'm using.

Definitely not the pump, as I finally heard it after closing the doors. Maybe it is no spark but I don't have anyone near by to help me test that. I am gonna try swapping the EEC.

Having some odd results.

The GT finally fired up. I just ended up re-stabbing the dizzy several times and finally turned over but was hesitating. While my cousin was cranking the motor, I was moving the dizzy and it finally turn on.

I set the timing to 10° w/o the spout but it doesn't want to stay on (idle jumps from sub-500 to 1000 rpms). I also swapped back and forth between the IMC that was "supposedly" bad and another one I have from a parts car and it does the same.

The one thing I notice is that if I set the timing to 0 on the balancer and the rotor pointing to the #1 terminal, it will not start up. That is when I have to move the dizzy while its being cranked to turn on. When I install the dizzy, I make sure that the mark (indention) on the base of the dizzy matches up with the indention on the block where the dizzy seats.

Any ideas why some of this is going on?

I tried to install my friends dizzy again but I cannot get it to line up the same as mine. When my rotor is pointing to around 1 o'clock, my friends is pointing to 12 o'clock. I can never get them to point the same.