Did anyone else have IAC failure shortly after doing the copper cap mod

[squares98]

mine stopped working today and the car wont hold an Idle. Am I the only one?

 

[40th GT]

I did it on mine and have no problems with it whatsoever. It's been about half a year now.

But then again, I have an 04 with 9000 miles so the IAC is young.

 

[FalconGuy016]

I have the copper cap mod and it's probably more restrictive than it should be, but I'm still fine. But it's only been a few months.

 

[squares98]

my IAC only has 9000 miles on it too. I tapped it with the end of a screwdriver and at least it stays on now, but it idles at like 500rpm, will idling that low hurt anything(Im gonna fix it tomorrow)

 

[40th GT]

my IAC only has 9000 miles on it too. I tapped it with the end of a screwdriver and at least it stays on now, but it idles at like 500rpm, will idling that low hurt anything(Im gonna fix it tomorrow)

When I was experimenting what size hole I should drill into the pipe cap, I started out too small and mine idled at 500rpm or so. It definitely smelled like the car was running rich and the motor sounded like it was straining.

But if you're gonna fix it tomorow, it won't hurt anything.

 

[squares98]

I took out the cap and it idles the same(or lack thereof)

 

[tdaily2]

i had the same problem since ther weather started to drop and then it thou a code all you will need to do is rest the comp and you will be good to go

 

[road rage]

did the copper thing a year ago and im fine (83000 miles)

 

[tomustang]

did you wait till the puter reset?

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Soooooo fitting --------->

 

[scalder]

My IAC failed about 1K after doing this...so no more copper plug for me!

 

[FalconGuy016]

To be honest it doesn't seem healthy to my engine and I would really like to take it out. But I tried that once, and that sucked. I have gotten so used to quick shifts with my shifter and RPM drop combined that when I went back to stock I drove like crap.

But the engine can idle lower than I'd like, and can hit nasty lows with A/C and defroster. When started up, the engine is suppose to warm itself with a higher idle at around 1000-1100 RPM in cold weather (like now, for me) and I'm finding myself doing that manually by adding a little gas. When I engine brake there is a significant increase in the amount of drivetrain slack it seems and it bounces around even more than it already does. I would guess to attribute that to the lower idle power which would otherwise smooth that out.

And it sounds like it's murdering my A/C clutch, but luckily I won't need that for a while.

Since the IAC is electronic, I was wondering if someone could put a little code in a tuner somewhere so we can safely adjust this.

 

[triggz]

i've got like 40k on mine w/ the copper cap

 

[stang96blkgt]

When I engine brake there is a significant increase in the amount of drivetrain slack it seems and it bounces around even more than it already does. I would guess to attribute that to the lower idle power which would otherwise smooth that out.

Since the IAC is electronic, I was wondering if someone could put a little code in a tuner somewhere so we can safely adjust this.

WTF, "Engine brake", what is it a Mac truck?

 

[triggz]

WTF, "Engine brake", what is it a Mac truck?

You're thinking of a jake brake.

Engine braking is using the natural resistance of the engine to rev and gearing down to decelerate.