Disc Brake Conversion, Part II

[RangerJoe]

Ok, a few weeks ago I told yall about me finding a 2004 V6 that I was going to rob the brakes, spindles, etc., MC & BB off of. So today I went and did it. The guy running the yard is from Nigeria, which apparently hindered our communication over the phone...he told me $175 for everything (Cheap!), but when I got there he wanted almost $400! No way I said, and after a few minutes of negotiating, I got everything for $200. So I came out pretty good.

Looks like the car had a brake job not long before being wrecked...it has brand new looking Duralast Gold brake pads all the way around and the rotors apear to be pretty smooth. The bad:

1) They cut the brake lines, so I need new ones. I read somewhere that I can buy braided lines that already have the adapaters made in for the swap. Anyone have any recommendations for lines? Trying to stay relatively cheap here.
2) The rotors are heavily surface rusted. I took a mild wire wheel to the rears when I got home and cleaned them up pretty well, but they definetly don't have that "just turned/machined" surface. Is this a sufficient way to clean them up? Remember, they look like they were recently turned, there is really no wear on them.
3) Someone painted the calipers and brackets, so they look like crap. Can I wire wheel them too? Paint stripper? Any recommendations are welcome.

Thats about it for now. Got to find some 31 spline axles and then wheels before starting the swap. Just going to work on cleaning things up for now.

Thanks in advance!
Joe

 

[Mustang5L5]

The MC fittings are incorrect. I believe they are both the same size. You will need an adapter to make it work with fox lines.


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk

 

[RangerJoe]

The MC fittings are incorrect. I believe they are both the same size. You will need an adapter to make it work with fox lines.


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk

Mike, am I making this harder on myself by using the v6 booster? They cut the hardlines going into the MC, so I have the fittings still attached. I'm assuming I could use the 04 v6 fittings with my hardlines, I would just have to reflare my stock hardlines.

 

[txstang84]

I bought lines from Maximum Motorsports...they're expensive, but they fit directly and they're chafe-proof s/s braided lines.

 

[txstang84]

Ok, a few weeks ago I told yall about me finding a 2004 V6 that I was going to rob the brakes, spindles, etc., MC & BB off of. So today I went and did it. The guy running the yard is from Nigeria, which apparently hindered our communication over the phone...he told me $175 for everything (Cheap!), but when I got there he wanted almost $400! No way I said, and after a few minutes of negotiating, I got everything for $200. So I came out pretty good.

Looks like the car had a brake job not long before being wrecked...it has brand new looking Duralast Gold brake pads all the way around and the rotors apear to be pretty smooth. The bad:

1) They cut the brake lines, so I need new ones. I read somewhere that I can buy braided lines that already have the adapaters made in for the swap. Anyone have any recommendations for lines? Trying to stay relatively cheap here.
2) The rotors are heavily surface rusted. I took a mild wire wheel to the rears when I got home and cleaned them up pretty well, but they definetly don't have that "just turned/machined" surface. Is this a sufficient way to clean them up? Remember, they look like they were recently turned, there is really no wear on them.
3) Someone painted the calipers and brackets, so they look like crap. Can I wire wheel them too? Paint stripper? Any recommendations are welcome.

Thats about it for now. Got to find some 31 spline axles and then wheels before starting the swap. Just going to work on cleaning things up for now.

Thanks in advance!
Joe

1) I was guessing above on the lines you needed-did you mean the lines from the chassis to front calipers? Those were the ones I was talking about...

2) Is it just really nasty scale or heavy pitting? Honestly, I'd probably just drive them...they only way to get rid of the scarring left behind by oxidation will be to resurface...

3) You can try stripper, but just try to keep it away from the seals...you can use the wire wheel with the same caution...good prep and cleanliness of course will make whatever new paint you use, stick.

Good luck!

 

[txstang84]

I don't know what the best deal is these days, but I bought my 31 spline axles as a kit from Summit a few years ago-I think they're Superior axles, and they came with new studs and bearings, and it was only like $229, IIRC

 

[RangerJoe]

1) I was guessing above on the lines you needed-did you mean the lines from the chassis to front calipers? Those were the ones I was talking about...

2) Is it just really nasty scale or heavy pitting? Honestly, I'd probably just drive them...they only way to get rid of the scarring left behind by oxidation will be to resurface...

3) You can try stripper, but just try to keep it away from the seals...you can use the wire wheel with the same caution...good prep and cleanliness of course will make whatever new paint you use, stick.

Good luck!

Yes, I was talking about the ones from calipers to hardlines. I have looked on MM website, I just wasn't sure if I was looking at the right thing. Thanks for the clarification. I may resurface the rotors, we'll see. They are not heavily pitted, but they are oxidized. Thanks for the suggestions on the paint stripper....that was what I was worried about. I was afraid the stripper would eat certain materials. Guess I will be doing the stripping by hand. I priced axles a few years ago but never bought them...just like everything else, they have gone up in price. Most are around $250-260 now...going to Atlanta in April for the NMRA race, going to see if I can find a used set. Thanks again for all the help!

Joe

 

[txstang84]

Summit has their brand stuff for $220 when I looked the other day...I suspect they're probably made by superior or something of equal quality...