Do I Have The Correct Parts For An Maf Conversion?

You would need some EEC connector pins to add the wires to the 60 pin connector. Thats about it.

MASS air conversion instructions from http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html FREE

The pins seem to be hard to find. Maybe someone else has a working link to help you. The sites oldfuelinjection.com and rjminjectiontech.com seem to have dropped off line. They had them, but I don't have another source.

Step 1.) Read the http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html. Print it out and have it handy when you do the conversion work.
You will need to remove the center red plastic piece from the computer wiring harness connector to move some of the wires around and add the wires (with pins) for the Mass Air wiring harness. Hopefully your Mass Air wiring harness came with pins already crimped on the wires.


Wire side 60 pin computer wiring harness connector


Computer side 60 pin computer wiring harness connector.






Dump the computer codes after the car is running to make sure all the wiring is properly done. Post any codes you get and I will try to help you.

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10




Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.

fiveologyracing.com has a mass air wiring kit that includes the mass air connector, VSS, and fuel pump relay wiring. and the pin connectors you need plus wiring instructions for $39.00. I have used this kit on my mass air converted 87.
Without your VSS and fuel pump relay wired into your mass air ECM you will show a code 29 for VSS sensor failure and code 95 for a fuel pump secondary circuit failure. I always had those codes until I purchased that wiring kit and added it to my mass air conversion. The VSS wired into the mass air ECM keeps your car from stalling when coming to a stop. A problem I also had until I wired the VSS in.

They are the pins that Jrichker spoke of, (the ones that are hard to find) in his post reply . They are the pins that need to be connected to the wiring so you can pin them into your EEC Harness.

This is what we are trying to describe, a male pin that goes on the end of the wire. They are crimp on pins, and it works best if you have the correct crimp tool.

View attachment 116794

See http://www.winzerusa.com/?__event=b... Fleet:Terminals&speckey_Type=Male%20Terminal
You'll have to do some measuring to get the right diameter pin, or find the technical description of the pin.

Fuel pump relay is located under the drivers seat. Glad to help you out.

jrichker said:

This is what we are trying to describe, a male pin that goes on the end of the wire. They are crimp on pins, and it works best if you have the correct crimp tool.

View attachment 116762

See http://www.winzerusa.com/?__event=browse_catalog&cat=Home:Electrical:Automotive & Fleet:Terminals&speckey_Type=Male%20Terminal
You'll have to do some measuring to get the right diameter pin, or find the technical description of the pin.

Click to expand...

He doesnt need male PINs for the wires, he needs female.

liljoe07 said:

He doesnt need male PINs for the wires, he needs female.

Click to expand...

Female pins are the ones that come with the fiveology mass air conversion wiring kit.

liljoe07 said:

He doesnt need male PINs for the wires, he needs female.

Click to expand...

Sorry, the male pins were the first ones I could find a picture of. You are correct in that he needs the female pins.