Dropping Oil pan

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Aug 14, 2005

#1

• Aug 14, 2005

• #1

Okay I am so ****ing pissed off right now. I have undone the oil pan and inserted the oil pump driveshaft properly into the block. Now the problem is that damn gasket, I cannot get it in place properly there is no room for me to get it lined up, especially on the rear main cap. Now I undid the power steering ram cylinder to get more clearance and it got me a touch, I also undid the thick crossmember, but I am not able to get the pan low enough to clear the rear main cap to get the pan off. It keeps contacting the fittings and such. Should I undo one of the tie rods or something it looks simple enough (just a pin and a nut) but am worried it opens another can of worms.

 

1

10secgoal

Active Member

Dec 1, 2003

2,801

3

49

San Diego

Aug 14, 2005

#2

• Aug 14, 2005

• #2

Eh, I caused the same problem in mine when I added the stud girdle. I have to remove the crossmember, and drop the steering linkage. Looks like you just have to continue dropping stuff. I disconnect from the idler arm.

 

B

bnickel

Founding Member

Aug 21, 2002

5,640

3

77

lubbock, texas

Aug 14, 2005

#3

• Aug 14, 2005

• #3

actually the idler arm only has two bolts holding it on and is the easiest way to drop the linkage down far enough

 

Max Power

Active Member

Jul 31, 2003

1,774

1

36

St Paul

Aug 14, 2005

#4

• Aug 14, 2005

• #4

What bnickel said. I didn't have to touch the PS ram, just the crossmember and drop it by disconnecting the idler arm.

 

pabear89

Active Member

Apr 15, 2003

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46

High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H

Aug 14, 2005

#5

• Aug 14, 2005

• #5

bnickel said:

actually the idler arm only has two bolts holding it on and is the easiest way to drop the linkage down far enough

Click to expand...

You forgot to tell him to bungee cord it back to the subframe.

I don't want to be near when it falls back against the pan or his fingers.


PB

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Aug 15, 2005

#6

• Aug 15, 2005

• #6

Yeah I took off the idler arm it was the easiest way. Now nothing fell on me but I did get blinded by grease and dirt when it came loose.

Almost got it started today, I smelled the first bit of exhaust today but still never cranked over. I am having trouble getting fuel to the carb so I put some down the venturis. I am slowly getting some gas up the line but the battery is dies so we have to stop cranking and the gas just works its way back down the line. SOOOOO CLOSE. I am going to buy a battery charger tomorrow and get this **** sorted out so I can fire her up.

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

3,548

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109

Austin TX

Aug 15, 2005

#7

• Aug 15, 2005

• #7

69Rcode_Mach1 said:

I am slowly getting some gas up the line but the battery is dies so we have to stop cranking and the gas just works its way back down the line.

Click to expand...

The bowls should hold more than enough to get her fired, by then the pump should have purged any air from the lines. On a dry Holley I squirted fuel into the bowls from the side "sight plug".

 

G

grego37

New Member

May 12, 2004

576

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0

Fresno CA

Aug 15, 2005

#8

• Aug 15, 2005

• #8

Did you drop the pan and remove the pump just to install the shaft from the bottom?
For the record.
It is correct to install it from the bottom, when using the retaining clip, (especially when its on an engine stand,) but in the car can be a PITA.
you could have just removed the clip and dropped it in from the top, you just have to make sure it engauges in the oil pump hex.
If you're removing you dist. frequently for some reason , then the clip and installing from the bottom is the way to go.
But if its a one time deal and you're putting in your dist. for keeps. its much easier to go from the top.
(caution, if you install without the clip, and you go to pull the dist. make sure the shaft doesnt come up with the dist. then fall into the pan. at that time you'd need to remove the pan to retrieve it)

You do get a pat on the back , for doing it correct.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Aug 15, 2005

#9

• Aug 15, 2005

• #9

Ya I wanted to do it correctly it gives me piece of mind now, just really really really pissed off when I was doing it.

 

G

grego37

New Member

May 12, 2004

576

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Fresno CA

Aug 15, 2005

#10

• Aug 15, 2005

• #10

you can take one or both motor mount bolts out (with the jack supporting the engine) and slowely jack it up some, maybe enough to give you the extra room you need.
Be careful, and use a wood block between the jack and engine location

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

3,548

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109

Austin TX

Aug 15, 2005

#11

• Aug 15, 2005

• #11

grego37 said:

you can take one or both motor mount bolts out (with the jack supporting the engine) and slowely jack it up some, maybe enough to give you the extra room you need.
Be careful, and use a wood block between the jack and engine location

Click to expand...

As you said...be carefull. I am not sure you can do that AND be carefull, good way to lose a hand I am thinking.

 

G

grego37

New Member

May 12, 2004

576

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Fresno CA

Aug 15, 2005

#12

• Aug 15, 2005

• #12

Yes be careful,
But not too uncommon.

Some people have to do this to install/remove headers, change sparkplugs etc. I did it on my car to drop the pan, because I didnt want to remove the rack and pinion .
Instead of a jack underneith , you can support it and jack it up from uptop with a cherry picker or engine hoist. You wont get too much travel because your exhaust and tranny are still part of the picture.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

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37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Aug 15, 2005

#13

• Aug 15, 2005

• #13

Wow you guys are complicating this I just dropped the idler arm and it came right out.