Build Thread Dustys has a new friend

a91what · Oct 14, 2016

Don't get me wrong the learning curve is steep. However 90% of your time is spent just on the idle algorithm this is the single most difficult part. I can tell you however that I managed to get a nice steady stable idle with an e303 cam right around 800 RPM. With the stock cam or something much more friendly than the e303 the idle is much easier to tune

90sickfox · Oct 17, 2016

Got the hubs and rotors on. Ran into one small snag. The banjo bolts were so long that they kept the pistons from fully retracting just a hair.

I trimmed those SOBs with the grinder and no more problems. I also treated my old lug nuts to a good grinding, too. Took their heads off.

The rear brakes will be done soon.

90sickfox · Oct 17, 2016

RaggedGT said:
I think I need those rotors

It was money well spent

I also found out that an 04 e brake cable will work on a fox with IRS. My e brake is also changed to a 98 though.

90sickfox · Oct 17, 2016

I'm now the proud owner of MSPNP2 @a91what

I've got to get a serial cable to USB adapter. Dusty is almost ready to cruise the streets. I've still got to do some exhaust work.... and the heat wrap, shields and sleeves. Oh....and vacuum lines, a catch can, and an overflow tank. Can't forget a wideband, too.

The money never stops pouring outta my pockets. [emoji19]

90sickfox · Oct 22, 2016

Never would have thought that vacuum lines would take all day. Well all day except for the time at my youngest sons birthday celebration.

Every line got its own zip ties to help keep them on....in case the boost tries to push against them. I also changed out the spring in my wastegate. Found out a c clamp comes in handy putting that thing back together.

My adapter came today for the MSPNP2. Wish I was close to starting it....but I'm not.

I still need a catch can....an overflow bottle...and all the heat protection stuff. Then its time to fill the trans, PS, and coolant.

Tomorrow I hope to set the tps voltage and run the vacuum line to the mega squirt. I don't want to poke a hole in my harness grommet....so I've got to do some thinkin' about it.

Seems like just yesterday this car was hating gt bumpers and jumping off car trailers. Lol

Oh goshmigosh !!! Ford fever is at MIR...guess I'll be at the track tomorrow. [emoji12]

a91what · Oct 22, 2016

Tps voltage does not matter. The MS does not care, you could use the tps off of any vehicle and it would work.

You calibrate it by hitting the tps closed button, then put your foot to the floor and hit the open button. You never have to dick around with that thing ever again.

90sickfox · Oct 23, 2016

a91what said:
Tps voltage does not matter. The MS does not care, you could use the tps off of any vehicle and it would work.

You calibrate it by hitting the tps closed button, then put your foot to the floor and hit the open button. You never have to dick around with that thing ever again.

I should've read this before dickin around with that thing this morning.

I did figure out how to not put a hole in my harness boot. My favorite grommet is on this passenger side too.

It sits about a half inch directly behind the computer so I made this so I wouldn't pinch the vacuum hose...

Its beautiful outside....so I guess its about time to hit Maryland International Raceway.

90sickfox · Oct 23, 2016

One more thing....to anyone that needs to know....this is the jumper in the clutch switch harness. Disconnect the jumper and plug into switch along with a clear connector.

@a91what I don't need the factory MAP sensor do I... Mine has been the wrong part for 12 years. Lol. Ran the part number and it came back to a late 80s early 90s F150 5.0 not an 89 gt 5.0. I'm surprised my car ran as good as it did. The 89 should have had a BAP and not a MAP...or vice versa.

a91what · Oct 23, 2016

Factory map not needed. I use wires like these to hookup other non stock relays and such. The MAF wiring is in a good place I use these most of the time. TAD TAB wiring works well to. But you would have to open the case up and solder jumper in to these pins. The old test connector is easiest spade connectors work very well here, the check engine light wire there can be used for fans and when they come on so will the light on the stock cluster.

90sickfox · Oct 23, 2016

Well, no track for me today. Instead, Steve and I tried to make some headway with MS. We got a lot accomplished until my ecu stopped working. I never had a problem before but my main relay decided to start intermittently working.

Steve even got me to attempt to start this thing....but no bueno.

Got a bunch done in the tune he sent me. Guess I've got to wait....again....smh.

I don't think I'm getting spark either....I'll check it another day.

90sickfox · Oct 24, 2016

Progress is progress.... Lol

I did more checking today and found my TFI is bad....both of them.

One of them rode around for a bunch of years on my carbed convertible. When I took the distributor apart the pickup just about fell apart. That thing was seriously corroded. My other tfi was on a ( 7 years ago ) new MSD distributor. When I took it off to check it the backing plate damn near fell off. Don't know if it was dropped or time sitting took its toll. Needless to say none of them passed the ohms test....not even close.

Guess I'll be TFI hunting....and main eec relay hunting.

90sickfox · Oct 29, 2016

Went out to investigate our TFI modules today. The brand BWD sold by Advance Auto and carquest doesn't come with heat sink grease...it come with useless dielectric grease. It also is cheaply made. The cover on the front ( to cover guts ) is barely glued and isn't sealed for moisture. The Autozone brand Duralast comes with the proper grease and is fully sealed. Both passed ohms testing but the Duralast brand is obviously the better choice. Both are priced the same without discounts.

90sickfox · Oct 29, 2016

I'm super frustrated... I replaced the eecrelay...I have spark and the mspnp2 still intermittently communicates. I checked the 60 pin and harness with my Ford breakout box and have found no problems. This is becoming a real pain in the butt.

I've gone over the settings sent from a91what and all looks good. I retimed the motor....still no start.

Just to think I have a set of brand new long tubes hanging in my shed.

I've got a lot of thinking to do. Seriously, I don't even know if I want this car right now. Might end up on CL for 4500....all spare parts included. I can deal with a lot but this computer communication issue may be the icing on the cake. [emoji35] [emoji107]

90sickfox · Oct 29, 2016

OK...I hate to say it but I'm one of those guys.... the ones that yell and scream and throw tools. Age has made me wiser so I no longer punch thinks harder than my hand.

The communication issue happened to be......remember the Chevy truck power block I used ?....well let's just say some fool didn't tighten the nut.

No car still hasn't started but the pump primes every time....and the ms communicates every time.

Now I just need to track down why it doesn't run. Smh.

And NO !!!! My cars not for sale yet.

I know what will help fix it..... Beer [emoji106] ...and a nip of apple pie.

a91what · Oct 29, 2016

Darn! thought I had a new car........

The no start if you can be any number of things in no way shape or form is the tune I sent you perfect. It is solely meant as a starting point that is all. So here is what I want you to do adjust the throttle blade set screw in this way it holds the throttle open further then recalibrate the TPS. When you try to start the car if it does not start first try removing 10% fuel from the ve table if it does not start after that try adding 15% then another 5 then another 5 if that doesn't work go back to the starting point and remove 15%. Essentially when I built your tune I use the tune on my engine and just reset the required fuel for your injectors.

90sickfox · Oct 29, 2016

a91what said:
Darn! thought I had a new car........

The no start if you can be any number of things in no way shape or form is the tune I sent you perfect. It is solely meant as a starting point that is all. So here is what I want you to do adjust the throttle blade set screw in this way it holds the throttle open further then recalibrate the TPS. When you try to start the car if it does not start first try removing 10% fuel from the ve table if it does not start after that try adding 15% then another 5 then another 5 if that doesn't work go back to the starting point and remove 15%. Essentially when I built your tune I use the tune on my engine and just reset the required fuel for your injectors.

Thanks man ! I'll try it. I posted a data log on your tuner studio thread. Figured its just an adjustment in fuel.

I'm stoked to have heard this thing rumble through the pipes for the first time. In all respect....this POS started !!! Can't wait to post a walk around vid.....then burnout. Lol

90sickfox · Oct 30, 2016

Man oh man !!! Filled all my fluids...ready to rock and roll....then....glanced over at my fuel gauge to see it steadily dropping from 10psi fast. Turn key off and check all connections up front and no leaks. Look under the car and no leaks. Only two options left...a leak in the tank....or an injector stuck open. Wouldn't be bad to diag....but...I have turbo pipes up front and IRS in the rear. Not how I wanted to spend my Sunday.

This thing has been holding 45psi rock steady for months... And now. Smh

Good news is tunerstudio is working great. The weather is nice. Got a burn pile going ( way away from the car ). The beer is cold. It'll be a good day regardless. [emoji106]

90sickfox · Oct 30, 2016

Maybe I'll take the opportunity to upgrade my sending unit. I suspect the cheap hose between the pump and sender pipe. Pro M makes one that has larger diameter feed and return pipes and AN fittings.

I'll go through the normal diag. The brand new Kirban FPR could be bad....the brand new 340LPH pump could be bad....could be an injector....or that dinky hose. Good thing is my fuel lines are bone dry on the outside. One win for me.[emoji469]

See...beer makes me a nicer guy. I'm not even zapping out. [emoji102] [emoji481] [emoji57]

Thanks @Davedacarpainter...you learned me the key to success. [emoji106]

90sickfox · Oct 30, 2016

I can get to all my spark plugs without taking out the down pipe...another win. [emoji469]

All 8 of my plugs are fouled...well at least they fouled evenly. Smh

The Schrader valve for fuel pressure was deleted so I made this...

The pump is putting out. Two primes fills a one liter bottle half way. Three primes and the gauge was pegged past 100psi. It was connected before the FPR. ( directly to feed line ) Can't really tell how well its holding pressure due to a small leak at the connection but wasn't bleeding down fast at all.
Don't want to pull the intake to check injectors....if I do that I might as well buy 60psi ones.

Don't know how to test the fpr other than finding a way to plug the return line.

90sickfox · Oct 30, 2016

Haha.....found the issue...funny how beer works. My brand new Kirban FPR is bad. I noticed it would drop pressure over an extended period of time. This is rediculous because I have a two bolt truck rail.

I rigged my pressure check line and used air pressure to pressurize the rail. Gauge read perfect but pressure dropped quick. I swapped the fpr for a factory explorer one and its holding steady at 30psi....too low for me but let's me know the fpr was dropping pressure not the injectors.

Build Thread Dustys has a new friend

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