Build Thread Dustys has a new friend

90sickfox · Oct 30, 2016

RaggedGT said:
Agreed Dave.. Reading is very fundamental for ones mental growth as well as research and understanding... When the time comes for a fuel pump that puts out more than the stocker I'm using now- well you better believe,I'll be doing some readin'
lol

Sorry for your luck man. Sucks your New fpr is bad-does it come with any warranty?

Don't know about a warranty yet. I bought it from LMR so I'm sure they'll make it right.

90sickfox · Nov 5, 2016

@a91what did you find out why your car was running rich. Ive been reading a ish ton of MS info. With my stock regulator my car starts...you read it right...it started first time the way you had it. Wish I had a wide band 'cause I'd be driving around this morning. [emoji14]
Still waiting for the WB and the new FPR. Thanks again man.

On my way to the JY to grab an injector harness to chop up. I've decided to make a tester just for one injector. The reason for that is because I have a couple guys that want them. If I can duplicate this I could sell them cheap and box them small. The goal is to have a product for under 100 bucks. The limitation will be that it won't be able to simulate rpm. It'll make flow testing and cleaning a lot easier though.

a91what · Nov 5, 2016

90sickfox said:
@a91what did you find out why your car was running rich. Ive been reading a ish ton of MS info. With my stock regulator my car starts...you read it right...it started first time the way you had it. Wish I had a wide band 'cause I'd be driving around this morning. [emoji14]
Still waiting for the WB and the new FPR. Thanks again man.

On my way to the JY to grab an injector harness to chop up. I've decided to make a tester just for one injector. The reason for that is because I have a couple guys that want them. If I can duplicate this I could sell them cheap and box them small. The goal is to have a product for under 100 bucks. The limitation will be that it won't be able to simulate rpm. It'll make flow testing and cleaning a lot easier though.

No... I'm not even sure it's running rich. I know in boost I have a safe tune extra fuel. that's the issue I believe. and cylinder8 looked like it may be experiencing spark loss under boost (maybe). I'm going to do a tuneup and retest in a week or so sir. now my vacuum lines all smell like gas I have no idea what's up with that, my FPR gauge does bounce quite a bit so the regulator may be on the way out.

90sickfox · Nov 8, 2016

Just to overcomplicate a little more.... Bosch lists the LSU 4.2 sensor at 1706 F degrees.... Innovate lists 1300 F and 900 F at the hex. Innovate also sells sensor heat sink bungs....shore it'll cost me another 500 bucks. What's money worth if ya can't spend it ? [emoji385] [emoji385] [emoji385] [emoji385] [emoji385] [emoji389]

90sickfox · Nov 12, 2016

Hopefully, I can get some stuff done today...

90sickfox · Nov 12, 2016

Now I have to figure another way to run wires into my car....without drilling new holes or damaging factory harness grommets. Thus takes some thought.....and I'm out of beer.

I'm like a lot of other folks....been through hacking a car up already. Now I refuse to drill holes and do things that are irreversible. The core support was a given....the car made that decision for me. Lol

I used to use the harness grommet behind the fender on the drivers side....but these harnesses are getting expensive.

The steering column boot is a no go. I won't be doing that again.

The little grommets I usually use aren't big enough for this...

So I'm on my way to the store to get some thinking juice.[emoji481]= [emoji362]

Davedacarpainter · Nov 12, 2016

90sickfox said:
Now I have to figure another way to run wires into my car....without drilling new holes or damaging factory harness grommets. Thus takes some thought.....and I'm out of beer.

I'm like a lot of other folks....been through hacking a car up already. Now I refuse to drill holes and do things that are irreversible. The core support was a given....the car made that decision for me. Lol

I used to use the harness grommet behind the fender on the drivers side....but these harnesses are getting expensive.

The steering column boot is a no go. I won't be doing that again.

The little grommets I usually use aren't big enough for this...

So I'm on my way to the store to get some thinking juice.[emoji481]= [emoji362]

I like the way you think.....

90sickfox · Nov 12, 2016

Two beers in and my brain started working... Behind the fender there's a grommet for the cruise control. Its got a vacuum line that runs through it....and a harness.

See why my front bumpers not done yet...

Got that bastard out...pulled the harness out if it....drilled the hole a little bigger....and split it down the middle.

Now I also found a way to get my vacuum to a boost gauge. Win for me. [emoji469]

Now on to the wiring. Smh

90sickfox · Nov 12, 2016

So.... I depinned my stock computer harness at the EGO pins 29 and 43. I then repinned it using wire from the 4 cylinder computer harness. One will be taped and labeled...so I don't forget what went there....the other ( pin 29 ) will be my WB input to the mspnp2.

90sickfox · Nov 12, 2016

@a91what I know this has been asked a thousand times ( probably ). The yellow wire from my innovate lc2 goes to pin 29...question is can I also tap that input for my innovate gauge ? The other brown wire, I assume, is not used...or am I wrong ?

a91what · Nov 12, 2016

Tapping into it shouldn't be a problem but I would consult the manufacturer. The brown wire if I'm not mistaken is the narrow band output you can test this by applying power to the unit and reading the output on wide band will have something between 0 and 5 volts narrow band will have between 0 and 1 volt

90sickfox · Nov 12, 2016

a91what said:
Tapping into it shouldn't be a problem but I would consult the manufacturer. The brown wire if I'm not mistaken is the narrow band output you can test this by applying power to the unit and reading the output on wide band will have something between 0 and 5 volts narrow band will have between 0 and 1 volt

You are correct, sir. I watched a few install vids and saw a lot of people tying the reds together to 5amp fuse.....the blacks together to computer ground...white and yellow ( from controller ) to o2 input...and yellow gauge wire to parking lights. The brown wire is NB readout. In tunerstudio the settings get changed.... Luckily mine is already set up. [emoji106]

Sadly, my install must end for the night....its cold as hell outside...and cold beers don't help.

I'll be back at it tomorrow in the AM.

90sickfox · Nov 13, 2016

Well...got everything wired up and....my starter went bad. This thing is 15 years old. This sucks, project is down till next year. I've got Thanksgiving, Vegas, Christmas, New Years, then Albuquerque again, and somewhere in there, a new ( to me ) house.

Well, I tried to get it done this year. [emoji53]

I'll still be piddling with Dusty, but no more hundreds of dollars till at least March.

I had planned to get it running and tie loose ends over the winter.

Now, I've got to think of how I'm going to do this.....[emoji481]

90sickfox · Nov 13, 2016

My shed is 12 x 16 and two full stories tall. I went through everything I could get to and still couldn't find that starter. Smh.

I've been holding on to that thing for at least 15 years. What the hell did I do with that thing ?.... Oh that's right.... I had a friend two years ago with a lifted f150.... He had an emergency....and I helped him out. Oh well.

90sickfox · Nov 19, 2016

Thought I'd put a little starter rebuild info in here. An old man told me that anyone can replace parts....but a real mechanic can take parts apart and fix them.

I decided to tear into my starter just to see how worn it was. Parts stores tend to get over by selling people whole parts when it only needed a small cheap easy to find part to get it up and running.

And I learned a new technique today. When taking out the starter brushes remove the whole motor assembly first....

Make sure to leave the 2 little bolts screwed in the backing plate. It allows the spring pressure to be relaxed. The back cover can now be removed. During reassembly the springs will be the last thing put on before the cover. The composite brush plate is a little flexible and can be slid over to access the spring pockets. Squeeze the springs and slide them in.

How did I learn this technique you ask...? While taking it apart I pulled the brush assembly out...trying to put it on with the springs inside led to one shooting off. It clipped my left rear and ended up somewhere in my driveway.

I searched for 3 hours for that darn thing.....even lost another one in the process. Dang leaves man ! They're everywhere.

Anyway, I'm no stranger to the parts store so they kindly allowed me to remove replacements from a core starter they had. [emoji106]

Everything checked out well, except the solenoid. I've got one on order for 23 bucks...that beats 101+ tax any day.

Hopefully, I'll get another 15 years outta this thing. Everything is getting cleaned up and regreased.....ready for a few more years of service.

90sickfox · Nov 19, 2016

On our starters...1991 and up...the solenoids are usually what goes bad. They tend to give that dead click. Its easy to remove with a t25 torx bit.

The top of the solenoid has two 13mm nuts on top. The one going to the starter motor has to be removed.

The plastic plunger on the bottom of the solenoid has to be slipped into the plastic arm inside the starter body.

This arm is what kicks the gear into the flywheel teeth. At this time its a good idea to move the starter gear up and down to make sure this arm moves with the gear.

Generally, this is the only repair that will ever need to be done to a starter. The brushes do wear but they cause a slow dragging crank. The starter bushings can go bad but they cause the gear to jump off the flywheel ( usually damaging the teeth ). The plastic arm inside the starter housing ( below solenoid ) can break. In that case the starter will spin fast because its not engaged.

If you only get a click, the wiring is good, and the motor can turn by hand ( ratchet wrench ) then I just about guarantee that changing the solenoid will solve your problem- and save you a lot of money. [emoji12]

90sickfox · Nov 20, 2016

Job done.

Everything's been cleaned, greased and tested with my battery charger.

Now back to this turbo tuning stuff. Smh

90sickfox · Nov 21, 2016

Not a lot going on. Cold as hell outside.

My winter project is going to be setting up my dual throttle body intake on my other motor. Hanging the long tubes on it and piddling with a few parts.

I've got 30lb injectors, new pan, and another brand new cam. Maybe, I'll get back into my z spec t5.

Trying to decide whether I should use my 6al2 or my 7al2 on my turbo motor or just leave it be.

I won't be running enough boost to blow out spark anyway.

Does anyone think a turbo 1988 Econoline conversion van would be cool ? Or is it just me ?

90sickfox · Nov 21, 2016

Meet Poppa Smurf ( the kids named him )

90sickfox · Nov 26, 2016

I can't get this damn car to start consistently to save my life. The long tubes are looking better every day. Smh

Its getting cold and I wanna drive dang it !!! Waaah waaah Waaah !!!! [emoji25]

Lol

@a91what and anyone else that can lend some help.....or wants to buy a turbo kit. Smh

This thing makes me feel summer and dummerrer Evey day.

Beer time.... FTS !

Build Thread Dustys has a new friend

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Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

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Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

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Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

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