dyno results

[MyFordsFly]

The guy at the Dyno you went to blew my motor up in 2002.

EJ It is a Dyno Jet there......so like you were saying how could they even get a reading if their tach portion wasn't working correctly??

Well Im thinking they shouldnt have charged him then. The few times we really had issues getting a good tach reading we did what we could for the person at the time, didnt charge them, and made sure they knew we would take good care of them next time they came in.

 

[h8my408]

i dont know, talk about some i left the dyno with a car that had a flat spot so bad it would spin the tires! (bog and then jump to 2500rpms like dropping the clutch)

i think i would have rather spent 600 on a wideband sensor and just street tuned it myself. at least i know what my next mod is: an expensive ass gauge to tune my damn car with.

 

[h8my408]

yeah so im looking at the sheet right now and it only goes to 4.25 (rpmx1000)

so i thought it was 4750 but it was 4250... damn that shop. im getting even more and more irritated as the hours pass...

 

[cobradvm]

i dont know, talk about some i left the dyno with a car that had a flat spot so bad it would spin the tires! (bog and then jump to 2500rpms like dropping the clutch)

i think i would have rather spent 600 on a wideband sensor and just street tuned it myself. at least i know what my next mod is: an expensive ass gauge to tune my damn car with.

Yep - came to the same conclusion - after having the car dyno'd 3 times, and all the dyno guys would do is bump the FP, I gave up on dynos, bought an AEM AF gauge, PMS, and datalogging software and tuned it myself. Shoulda done that from the start.

 

[h8my408]

once again, the only way to do something right is to do it yourself. and there are some great areas here in seattle to do 4th gear pulls...

 

[S351Saleen77]

yeah so im looking at the sheet right now and it only goes to 4.25 (rpmx1000)

so i thought it was 4750 but it was 4250... damn that shop. im getting even more and more irritated as the hours pass...

There are good shops out there. I have had Blood Enterprises do the tuning on my D.F.I. since the have a Mustang Dyno he can load it down and simulate real world driving and get it pretty close. He was also the factory recommended tuner for my D.F.I., I do still have driveability issues and would like to try another place that is good with D.F.I. tuning just to have a fresh look at it. But not all shops are bad. For some reason my wide band 02 reads off from the dynos so it still pays to make sure that is correct before you start tuning.

Thats why I went to T.T. because they said they knew all about my system. Well they ran it once to get a baseline with Bloods tune which was safe but "rich" so he leans it out with one keystroke.......it was a little too lean on the second pull so he made another change which was supposed to richen it up and guess what....it went leaner and so did 6 pistons!! Needless to say I would never recommend them to anybody.

 

[94gsl5.0]

For some reason my wide band 02 reads off from the dynos so it still pays to make sure that is correct before you start tuning.

What wideband are you using? Can you cal it? We have used several different Co. widebands and have found them all to be off to one degree or another. However, The Innovates tend to be spot on and you can recal them.

Also are you using a integral wideband with your ECU or a standalone wideband unit with an analog signal to your ECU? I have found that if you have a dirty signal from the Wideband driver/controller box to the ECU, you can get different voltage readings, which makes for differing A/F readings at the ECU...

 

[Stangler]

I have a Innovate LC-1 on my car, with the XD-16 guage. It is the best money I've spent on the car. I've done all the tuning on it.

Nate

p.s. I've never had my car on a dyno either...

 

[S351Saleen77]

What wideband are you using? Can you cal it? We have used several different Co. widebands and have found them all to be off to one degree or another. However, The Innovates tend to be spot on and you can recal them.

Also are you using a integral wideband with your ECU or a standalone wideband unit with an analog signal to your ECU? I have found that if you have a dirty signal from the Wideband driver/controller box to the ECU, you can get different voltage readings, which makes for differing A/F readings at the ECU...

I have D.F.I. which is stand alone system. It is the Accel Gen 7 D.F.I. so I don't have a ECU. The wideband is an Accel product also made for the system. At the time you couldn't recal it, maybe now they have some software upgrades that I could get and do it.

My point was don't get a wideband and think its right on without checking it on a dyno.....or maybe 2 different dynos. Its cheap insurance if your sensor is saying your rich but your really lean...especially if you have boost......it only took 5 sec at full throttle to blow my motor!

 

[S351Saleen77]

tt

 

[94gsl5.0]

I totally agree with you, you must make sure that the wideband is accurate or else its useless and you will end up blown headgaskets or melted pistons. Been there... not fun.

To clarify my above post I use the term ECU as the be all word for any "black box" that runs the engine. I am currently running a AEM stand alone ECU with a LM-1 wideband with 02 feedback always on. I was running into discrepecies between what A/F the LM-1 Innovate control box was reading and what AEM was translating that into (lm-1 box plugged permanently in to AEM) My logs showed dead rich at 11.5 when i was actually at 12.0. Turns out the analog ground from LM-1 box should be grounded to the analog ground input on the AEM (not the chassis)... then it was almost in synch... to fine tune i played with the gain. Now the AEM sees exactly what LM-1 is telling it. Finding out i was half a point off was very eye opening. Especially when i run the car with constant 02 feedback even under WOT...

I thought maybe there might be a chance your issue could be similar since you were running a standalone ECU with wideband input... However i am not familier with the ACCEL stuff... so it was kind of a shot in the dark.

PS. Tom, the hooker headers fit. Its tight, I see what you mean by them being a bit small though.... lol.

 

[h8my408]

hey stangler, where'd you get the lc-1 and how much did it cost you? i saw that last night while surfing around, and i think i saw $599?

if you ask me i'd say that's the best money ANYONE could buy.

edit: i dont know what that means, so let me rephrase..:
best money anyone could spend!

 

[S351Saleen77]

I thought maybe there might be a chance your issue could be similar since you were running a standalone ECU with wideband input... However i am not familier with the ACCEL stuff... so it was kind of a shot in the dark.

PS. Tom, the hooker headers fit. Its tight, I see what you mean by them being a bit small though.... lol.

Good thought Its something I should look into.

Yeah the headers are just not for a blown 408......but it gets you by until later. I can't wait to get some big tubes on.

 

[Stangler]

hey stangler, where'd you get the lc-1 and how much did it cost you? i saw that last night while surfing around, and i think i saw $599?

if you ask me i'd say that's the best money ANYONE could buy.

edit: i dont know what that means, so let me rephrase..:
best money anyone could spend!

I got my LC-1 through www.DIYautotune.com and the XD-16 guage from Jegs. If I would have known Krazy Koncepts was a dealer, i'd have got them from Jon. The guage was not cheap, but being able to program the LED's to the color I want helps when your running down the track. 10-11.99 is green and 12.00-20.00 is red. When I'm racing, it is very easy to read and if you see red, you get your foot off the gas. ahhh,...Good times.....

Nate