I would like to know if it is worth it - I want to see Numbers here- what your baseline numbers were before tune, and what your tuned numbers were after adjustments - is it worth the 400 i think it's gonna cost me? This thread could be helpful for many people - !! THANKS
Hey Paul, I would dyno tune after you get ur better fuel pump in. I think its totally worth it, just make sure you've got everything done that u want done first.
My pal has a h/c/i 302 with all the extra crap and all the deletes and a charger with 11 psi. I was there for his dyno tune. The first pull was like 330 hp on the wheels. By the time it was done it was 388 hp on the wheels.
You'll find better #'s when dyno tuning a forced induction set up, but yes I could see you finding anywhere from 5-20Hp via dyno tune. However being as $$ strapped as you will be once the swap is done I would wait untill you've had some good wheel time before looking to dyno the car.
Came in and made 256 rwhp and left with 272 rwhp. I just played with timing and FP. I have heard good and bad about tunes, but would say a mild street car without a power adder doesnt need a $400 tune!
On a mild combo you could just pay for the dyno and tune it yourself. Around here it is $100/hr for the dyno with a/f and you can tune all you want yourself. But with more expensive, higher compression, forced induction and the like combos a professional dyno tune is very valuable.
I would drive the car easy for a while. Then after your certain everything is working alright I would play around with fuel pressure and timing till the car feels stong on the street. Then go to a dyno for a couple of base pulls to make sure your AFR is safe. The first time i had my car in for a base pull it was a (NA) stock longblock. It made 221 hp and 270 tq. at the wheels. After i got an adj. FPR I bumped up my timing and pressure and after a couple of weeks of playing around with adjustments and going to the track i went back to the dyno for a base pull again. This time the car made 247hp and 290tq and the AFR was actually a little on the rich side. The dyno shop i went to only charged $60 for 4 pulls. So until i put the charger on I only spent $120 on the dyno just to make sure the tune was safe. My buddy has a very simular set as you do and with his (seat of pants) tuning he made 298 hp on the Dyno jet. After tuning on the dyno he only picked up 3hp and 6lb of tq. The tuner was cool and only charged half price because the car was already set up well and there was not much of an improvment on the dyno.
I assume you are talking about a tune that comes with a piggy back chip. 400.00 is about right for the chip and tune ( on the dyno). I did my 347 n/a first run turned the rollers 297 hp 345 ftlbs torque, 6 pulls later I left with 320 rwhp and 365 ftlbs of torque. Steve suggested a stock fuel pressure regulator and 10 deg of timing all of the adjustments are done in the computer(advance and pulse widths). so i say yes it is worth it. chris
A custom burned chip is really only necessary when u have a power adder or the motor has been stroked. I ran a 347 stroker for 4 years before getting a chip burned and it picked up 20rwhp and 20rwtq, NA. The reason I did it was to prevent a lean condition. The stock computer still thinks it is a 302 motor. It dials in your air/fuel ratio, engine timing and fuel timing delivery to the injectors among other things.
yea what is the diff between dynos? i rode past evolution, the place i'm gonna go, and they have on the wall outside posted that it is a Mustang Dyno - it is like a banner - is this the good one?? i've seen it, it's very nice n expensive looking lol
i don't know the exact differences but i was told that the mustang dyno is better, it factors in more, and it also shows lower numbers (eg. a dynojet may say 300 rwhp, but a mustang dyno will say 275 rwhp)
I picked up 30 rwhp and 35 rwtq from an SCT tune. My car runs a hell of a lot better too, even minus the hp gains. I paid 685 for the chip and dyno time.