EGR value to exhaust header tube issue

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phatwebs

New Member

Jul 10, 2007

31

0

0

Seattle, WA

Jun 14, 2008

#1

• Jun 14, 2008

• #1

Hi folks,

I just did a tune-up by replacing spark plugs and wires. I needed to remove the ~8" metal tube that connects the EGR to the exhaust header. That was a bitch, BTW. However, now I cannot get it to bolt back onto either end. Do you have any advice as to how I can complete this connection? In the meantime, I'll keep trying to thread the damn bolts on.

Thanks,
Paul

 

D

dro

New Member

May 25, 2003

165

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0

Birmingham, AL

Jun 15, 2008

#2

• Jun 15, 2008

• #2

Have you tried putting a thread or 2 on one and and getting the other end positioned on there? Thats how i would do it.

 

P

phatwebs

New Member

Jul 10, 2007

31

0

0

Seattle, WA

Jun 15, 2008

#3

• Jun 15, 2008

• #3

Thanks, dro.

The root cause of why this is so difficult, is the bolt going to the exhaust header is either stripped or corroded. Thus, the threads no longer line up and fit on the bung. I've even added anti-sieze to the threads to help get it on, no luck. I'll need either OEM replacement or customize a new pipe and bolt ends. Looks like the outside diameter of the pipe is .750" and the thread width looks to be ~1". I am having no luck finding high temperature pipe on Summit Racing suitable for this application. I'll try Nappa, too. Any advice?

Thanks,
Paul

 

P

phatwebs

New Member

Jul 10, 2007

31

0

0

Seattle, WA

Jun 15, 2008

#4

• Jun 15, 2008

• #4

Update: It's actually called a Smog Tube, and I found the part here.

Now, I wonder if Nappa can fabricate this for me using high-temp flex pipe instead...

 

chaos254

Founding Member

Jul 27, 2002

467

3

29

NJ

Jun 15, 2008

#5

• Jun 15, 2008

• #5

I'm curious as to why you took that off to do plugs/wires? I can see taking the rubber smog lines off from the smog pump to get better access but not the egr pipe.

 

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phatwebs

New Member

Jul 10, 2007

31

0

0

Seattle, WA

Jun 15, 2008

#6

• Jun 15, 2008

• #6

I have aftermarket shorty headers and I needed to remove the EGR SMOG tube to access spark plug #3.

 

Car Nut

Founding Member

Jul 6, 2000

1,176

1

37

Snellville, Georgia (Atlanta area)

Jun 16, 2008

#7

• Jun 16, 2008

• #7

I need to replace my EGR valve and have decided to have a local shop do the work. No tools I have can get that exhaust tube off of the EGR. Even after soaking with WD-40 for a good while.

Wish I had an actual answer, but maybe it will feel better knowing others have had no luck with it. I have to pass emissions in my area, so the EGR has to stay and I don't want to pay for a new exhaust tube. The less expense overall the better.

Good luck.

 

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phatwebs

New Member

Jul 10, 2007

31

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0

Seattle, WA

Jun 16, 2008

#8

• Jun 16, 2008

• #8

Thanks for the reply. It makes me feel more confident that I am not the only one having this problem.

Yes, I also need to leave the EGR and A.I.R. pump system installed to pass emission here too.

I actually was able to get that thing off after soaking with WD40 and a 1" wrench for a few hours, a little bit at a time. The male and female threads are fouled with anti-sieze lube and need to be cleaned. In the meantime, I used 8" of 400 degree high-temp silicone tube so I can drive it to the shop. There is a "air nail gun sound" coming from the passenger side of the motor, which I suspect is an exhaust leak. Maybe I'll get the car towed instead...

I also figure, while I have the thing apart, to check and clean the EGR and IAC. I may have a shop complete the rest of this, as my hands are shredded now and I want to drive the car with the top down, not work on it. I gotta take advantage of the sunny days and blue skies here in Seattle.

Cheers,
Paul

 

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bayellowstang

Member

Apr 25, 2003

462

0

17

Carlisle, PA

Jun 16, 2008

#9

• Jun 16, 2008

• #9

I wish I could help. I have a 1" intake spacer so my tube was too short to reach anymore. I have been making my own tubes from different types of steel. Trying to find one that doesn't melt isn't easy.

I have also had to make new nuts because of the threads getting gunked up with carbon and anti-seize.

The one thing that I did was use a thread repair tool. It's like a file that has different thread pitches on it. This was enough to get the header threads cleaned up so my nut fit on.

Hope you can figure something out. I know how it is not being able to drive it when you want to.

 

R

RoushTbird

New Member

Jun 6, 2008

59

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0

DFW

Jun 16, 2008

#10

• Jun 16, 2008

• #10

i would never condone illegal actions, however, in the atlanta area there are inspection shops nearby that can "Help" you pass for a small fee. there are tons of them in Tx. Ask your local speedshop for a "Performance State inspection" location.

 

kendoo130

Founding Member

May 30, 2002

244

0

16

Huntington Station N.Y.

Jun 16, 2008

#11

• Jun 16, 2008

• #11

This is what I did-I have an after market intake with a 1/2 spacer. Go to a plumbing supply and get yourself a piece of 1/2 K copper (you can bend K with your hand)-cut your old tube to get old ends off. All you need to do is flare the ends of the new piece of pipe(K copper) and of course you're reusing your old ends if they're not damaged. I reused mine because they were OK. I was going to use a compression fitting if the copper melted-but a year and a half later everythings good to go.

 

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phatwebs

New Member

Jul 10, 2007

31

0

0

Seattle, WA

Jun 16, 2008

#12

• Jun 16, 2008

• #12

bayellowstang said:

The one thing that I did was use a thread repair tool. It's like a file that has different thread pitches on it. This was enough to get the header threads cleaned up so my nut fit on.

Click to expand...

Yes, this is what I plan to do.

I'll also need to dremel-clean the female threads. It hope it goes back on with no problems...

Thanks all,
Paul