Hello,
I am doing a replacement of the compressor/accumulator/evap core and heater core on my 2001 V6 Mustang.
I will centralize my experience to this thread.
HISTORY:
Compressor started smoking. Pulley could still free-turn if compressor not used, and no smoke if Compressor wasn't used, so I could still drive the car and just unplugged the compressor. Figured it was a bad clutch or bearing. Decided to replace the compressor (prob my first mistake, never should have opened the a/c system if it really was just the clutch or bearing)
Took to garage, when they tried to disconnect my Accumulator from the evap core, they had issues. They decided to go crazy on it with a saw and pliers, and ended up ripping off the end of the connection on the evap core. Garage wanted an extra $2000 to put in a new core. I had them put the broken compressor back on (needed the pulley back in place for my serpintine belt) and took the car home, now empty of refridgerant and missing an accumulator. A few pieces that had been removed were also given to me in a bag. Still cost me $300 labor.
I have never worked on the A/C or heater system before and don't usually do repair jobs quite this big, so this was a bit daunting.
This is what I got back from the garage (evap core was still in place though):
Replacement PARTS:
I ordered the following parts from RA:
Four Seasons 5638NK A/C Kit (Includes compressor, Accumulator, Liquid Line - it included some cylindrical pieces that seem to be for aligning the mounting and some Schraeder valves. I will included pictures below, in my questions)
Four Seasons heater core (mine was fine, but figured since I'm in there anyways, might as well put in a new one)
and from Amazon:
a vacuum pump with gauges
ac line/fuel line disconnect kit
trim removal set
nylog blue to lube o-rings
jb weld plastic
penck closed cell neoprene weather stripping to cushion the heater core and evap core
PROCESS:
I followed the youtube video from Thatlowdsg for replacing a Heater core on a 2001 Mustang. This got me through the removal of the dash. Unfortunately as the video is just for Heater core, he does not remove the HVAC box so I just tried to figure that out on my own. Thank you to Noobz347 for answering some of my initial questions that came up during this part.
I am not replacing the consenser because there is corrosion on the bolts holding in my radiator - I snapped the first one I tried, and I don't want to proceed any further - too much risk of making this an even bigger problem.
I did not plan on replacing the high and low side hoses due to cost, and because it would take 5 days to arrive if I order now.
I have not found any good walkthrough videos for replacing the compressor, so I'm unsure what I'm doing in the engine bay.
I am currently at the point where everything is replaced. I am still having issues with the quick connects on the heater hoses, and I haven't recharged the ac system yet, but it is holding a vacuum.
Challenges so far:
- had a bunch of dried leaf shavings in the bottom of the HVAC box and on the evap core. Thought I had lost a drain hose. Noobz347 thankfully informed me there is no drain hose
- old evap core had rubber insulation around it to seal to the hvac box. new evap core doesn't have it. Tracked down some replacement material on amazon. transfered across a plastic support bracket for the long tube on the core.
- releasing the quick connects on the heater hoses was a nightmare
- resealing the quick-connects on the heater hoses is difficult. One already blew off and blew coolant everywhere. Second one seems a bit loose.
5 QUESTIONS THAT HAD ME STUCK:
1. I am supposed to have 8.5 oz of PAG oil in my total system. My compressor came with 3oz loaded, and it states to use it rather than empty it. I have no idea how much PAG oil was removed at the garage as they didn't measure it. The only old components remaining are the condensor, and the high and low hoses - but I flushed the hoses with 99% alcohol and compressed air. How do I guess how much oil remains in the condenser, and how much I should be adding? Following some advise on here, I assumed 0.5oz of oil in the Condenser, so I added 5oz to the system - 3oz into the compressor and 2oz into the accumulator.
2. Do I need to flush the system? The garage work was originally done in early July. So the system was opened almost 2 months ago. The ends of all open connectors were plugged or taped same day they were opened. I took off the high and low side hose and flushed it with 99% rubbing alcohol then blew it out with an air compressor. I did not do anything with the condenser as they don't recommend flushing a parallel flow condenser. Ideally it would be replaced.
3. How do I detach/re-attach the compressor? There is a metal block at the back of the compressor (don't know what it's called but the high and low line connect to it), so I will need to detach that block from the old compressor and attach the new compressor to it. This is done with the bolt at the blue arrow. The bolt at the red arrow is not used. There were no other washers or springs needed, new washers were on the new compresser, just lubricated those with nylog.
4. The kit included two little bags containing some parts - it appears to be a Service Valve Repair Kit with 3 caps, 2 Schraeder valves and 2 other kind of valves and 2 metal collars used as alignment for the compressor. I did not use the replacement Schraeder valves, but the other collars needed to be compressed with pliers and fit into the front bolt mountings of the compressor to act as an alignment for mounting.
5. The Accumulator came with 3 green o-rings and a spring ring, which would replace the ones on the incoming line. I can see where the incoming line connects, and where the line to the evap core connects, but there is a third valve on the accumulator which is for the AC Pressure Switch - had to find that in the bag of stuff I got back from the shop.
Once you get the dashboard off, the youtube video of the heater core replacement doesn't take out the hvac box - instead he just opens it up and rips the heater core out. You can;t do this for the evap core. You need to remove the hvac box. you will need to detach the accumulator rail, as the bolt through the firewall needs to be freed. There are two main bolts in the front of the hvac box, and one underneath. Once the heater hoses and ac lines are detached, pull the hvac box into the car and the tubes will be pulled through the firewall. Keep an eye on the firewall padding that surrounds the hoses and the drain and the accumuator rail bolt. There are 4 screws that undo the access to the heater core, which can be easily removed. However to access the evaporator core, you will need to cut the hvac box open. I used a dremel with the thinnest cutting blade. Then used jb weld plastic to epoxy it back together after - which also required using multiple clamps. The old evap core had dense foam glued to it, sealing the end of the hvac box facing the blower motor. I used some neoprene rubber strips. It was a tight fit getting the new evap core in. The old evap core also had a plastic support bracket for the longer tube. The new evap core was not quite the same size. It took alot of sculpting with a dremel to convert it so fit on the new evap core, and still had to epoxy a couple of spots.
Once hvac box reinstalled, time to install accumulator and connect the lines. couldnt manage to seat the accumulator properly and have the lines connected. once both connections from the accumulaor were connected, the accumulator was basically suspended in air, supported by lines. I struggled to close the bracket around the accumuluator, finally managed to, and tightened it down - adding tension to those lines, which is probably a bad thing.
Followed advice given on this forum for how to properly fill and bleed the coolant, using the bleed valve.
PLAN:
I got the AC components in place and hooked up the vacuum pump. It seems to be holding a vacuum, so that is a success so far. I still need to go to garage, have them vacuum and re-charge the system and add some dye (can't play with R134a refridgerant in Canada).
The current issue I'm dealing with is the hoses going to the Heater core. The quick-connects are giving me issues. I got the car all finished (or so I thought) and took it for a test drive - one of the quick connects burst off of the heater core and sprayed coolant all over the engine. I've replaced the quick-connect clip of that one, and it seems to be firmly connected now. But the 3/4" quick connect beside it has a bit of a wiggle. I replaced the plastic quick-connect clip on that one as well, but it didn't change anything. If I firmly grab the quick-connect and pull really hard, I can pull it off of the heater core.
I'm trying to figure out what to do about it - epoxy the quick-connect together? Replace the heater hose?
It is possible that this 4 Season replacement heater core has a slightly different size on it's tube, or the security ridge around the tube. Which means a new heater hose would still have the same problem.
Update : The tube on the heater core is smaller on the new 4Seasons part. The tip of both tubes is 3/4", which extends back for about 1" where there is a raised lip or ridge, which is what the quick-connect snaps onto. After this ridge, the original core remains 3/4" and then tapers to 5/8" after about an inch. The new 4Seasons core tube drops to 5/8" immediately after the ridge, which is why there is slop in the quick-connect and why I can pull the hose off with my bare hand. So a replacement hose will not fix this problem. Current plan is to wrap the tube with hvac tape to build up the outer diameter to 3/4"
Not sure which part number of for the 3/4" tube (MOTORCRAFT KH1054 or MOTORCRAFT KH1104). I think it's KH1054.
Thanks all.
I am doing a replacement of the compressor/accumulator/evap core and heater core on my 2001 V6 Mustang.
I will centralize my experience to this thread.
HISTORY:
Compressor started smoking. Pulley could still free-turn if compressor not used, and no smoke if Compressor wasn't used, so I could still drive the car and just unplugged the compressor. Figured it was a bad clutch or bearing. Decided to replace the compressor (prob my first mistake, never should have opened the a/c system if it really was just the clutch or bearing)
Took to garage, when they tried to disconnect my Accumulator from the evap core, they had issues. They decided to go crazy on it with a saw and pliers, and ended up ripping off the end of the connection on the evap core. Garage wanted an extra $2000 to put in a new core. I had them put the broken compressor back on (needed the pulley back in place for my serpintine belt) and took the car home, now empty of refridgerant and missing an accumulator. A few pieces that had been removed were also given to me in a bag. Still cost me $300 labor.
I have never worked on the A/C or heater system before and don't usually do repair jobs quite this big, so this was a bit daunting.
This is what I got back from the garage (evap core was still in place though):
Replacement PARTS:
I ordered the following parts from RA:
Four Seasons 5638NK A/C Kit (Includes compressor, Accumulator, Liquid Line - it included some cylindrical pieces that seem to be for aligning the mounting and some Schraeder valves. I will included pictures below, in my questions)
Four Seasons heater core (mine was fine, but figured since I'm in there anyways, might as well put in a new one)
and from Amazon:
a vacuum pump with gauges
ac line/fuel line disconnect kit
trim removal set
nylog blue to lube o-rings
jb weld plastic
penck closed cell neoprene weather stripping to cushion the heater core and evap core
PROCESS:
I followed the youtube video from Thatlowdsg for replacing a Heater core on a 2001 Mustang. This got me through the removal of the dash. Unfortunately as the video is just for Heater core, he does not remove the HVAC box so I just tried to figure that out on my own. Thank you to Noobz347 for answering some of my initial questions that came up during this part.
I am not replacing the consenser because there is corrosion on the bolts holding in my radiator - I snapped the first one I tried, and I don't want to proceed any further - too much risk of making this an even bigger problem.
I did not plan on replacing the high and low side hoses due to cost, and because it would take 5 days to arrive if I order now.
I have not found any good walkthrough videos for replacing the compressor, so I'm unsure what I'm doing in the engine bay.
I am currently at the point where everything is replaced. I am still having issues with the quick connects on the heater hoses, and I haven't recharged the ac system yet, but it is holding a vacuum.
Challenges so far:
- had a bunch of dried leaf shavings in the bottom of the HVAC box and on the evap core. Thought I had lost a drain hose. Noobz347 thankfully informed me there is no drain hose
- old evap core had rubber insulation around it to seal to the hvac box. new evap core doesn't have it. Tracked down some replacement material on amazon. transfered across a plastic support bracket for the long tube on the core.
- releasing the quick connects on the heater hoses was a nightmare
- resealing the quick-connects on the heater hoses is difficult. One already blew off and blew coolant everywhere. Second one seems a bit loose.
5 QUESTIONS THAT HAD ME STUCK:
1. I am supposed to have 8.5 oz of PAG oil in my total system. My compressor came with 3oz loaded, and it states to use it rather than empty it. I have no idea how much PAG oil was removed at the garage as they didn't measure it. The only old components remaining are the condensor, and the high and low hoses - but I flushed the hoses with 99% alcohol and compressed air. How do I guess how much oil remains in the condenser, and how much I should be adding? Following some advise on here, I assumed 0.5oz of oil in the Condenser, so I added 5oz to the system - 3oz into the compressor and 2oz into the accumulator.
2. Do I need to flush the system? The garage work was originally done in early July. So the system was opened almost 2 months ago. The ends of all open connectors were plugged or taped same day they were opened. I took off the high and low side hose and flushed it with 99% rubbing alcohol then blew it out with an air compressor. I did not do anything with the condenser as they don't recommend flushing a parallel flow condenser. Ideally it would be replaced.
3. How do I detach/re-attach the compressor? There is a metal block at the back of the compressor (don't know what it's called but the high and low line connect to it), so I will need to detach that block from the old compressor and attach the new compressor to it. This is done with the bolt at the blue arrow. The bolt at the red arrow is not used. There were no other washers or springs needed, new washers were on the new compresser, just lubricated those with nylog.
4. The kit included two little bags containing some parts - it appears to be a Service Valve Repair Kit with 3 caps, 2 Schraeder valves and 2 other kind of valves and 2 metal collars used as alignment for the compressor. I did not use the replacement Schraeder valves, but the other collars needed to be compressed with pliers and fit into the front bolt mountings of the compressor to act as an alignment for mounting.
5. The Accumulator came with 3 green o-rings and a spring ring, which would replace the ones on the incoming line. I can see where the incoming line connects, and where the line to the evap core connects, but there is a third valve on the accumulator which is for the AC Pressure Switch - had to find that in the bag of stuff I got back from the shop.
Once you get the dashboard off, the youtube video of the heater core replacement doesn't take out the hvac box - instead he just opens it up and rips the heater core out. You can;t do this for the evap core. You need to remove the hvac box. you will need to detach the accumulator rail, as the bolt through the firewall needs to be freed. There are two main bolts in the front of the hvac box, and one underneath. Once the heater hoses and ac lines are detached, pull the hvac box into the car and the tubes will be pulled through the firewall. Keep an eye on the firewall padding that surrounds the hoses and the drain and the accumuator rail bolt. There are 4 screws that undo the access to the heater core, which can be easily removed. However to access the evaporator core, you will need to cut the hvac box open. I used a dremel with the thinnest cutting blade. Then used jb weld plastic to epoxy it back together after - which also required using multiple clamps. The old evap core had dense foam glued to it, sealing the end of the hvac box facing the blower motor. I used some neoprene rubber strips. It was a tight fit getting the new evap core in. The old evap core also had a plastic support bracket for the longer tube. The new evap core was not quite the same size. It took alot of sculpting with a dremel to convert it so fit on the new evap core, and still had to epoxy a couple of spots.
Once hvac box reinstalled, time to install accumulator and connect the lines. couldnt manage to seat the accumulator properly and have the lines connected. once both connections from the accumulaor were connected, the accumulator was basically suspended in air, supported by lines. I struggled to close the bracket around the accumuluator, finally managed to, and tightened it down - adding tension to those lines, which is probably a bad thing.
Followed advice given on this forum for how to properly fill and bleed the coolant, using the bleed valve.
PLAN:
I got the AC components in place and hooked up the vacuum pump. It seems to be holding a vacuum, so that is a success so far. I still need to go to garage, have them vacuum and re-charge the system and add some dye (can't play with R134a refridgerant in Canada).
The current issue I'm dealing with is the hoses going to the Heater core. The quick-connects are giving me issues. I got the car all finished (or so I thought) and took it for a test drive - one of the quick connects burst off of the heater core and sprayed coolant all over the engine. I've replaced the quick-connect clip of that one, and it seems to be firmly connected now. But the 3/4" quick connect beside it has a bit of a wiggle. I replaced the plastic quick-connect clip on that one as well, but it didn't change anything. If I firmly grab the quick-connect and pull really hard, I can pull it off of the heater core.
I'm trying to figure out what to do about it - epoxy the quick-connect together? Replace the heater hose?
It is possible that this 4 Season replacement heater core has a slightly different size on it's tube, or the security ridge around the tube. Which means a new heater hose would still have the same problem.
Update : The tube on the heater core is smaller on the new 4Seasons part. The tip of both tubes is 3/4", which extends back for about 1" where there is a raised lip or ridge, which is what the quick-connect snaps onto. After this ridge, the original core remains 3/4" and then tapers to 5/8" after about an inch. The new 4Seasons core tube drops to 5/8" immediately after the ridge, which is why there is slop in the quick-connect and why I can pull the hose off with my bare hand. So a replacement hose will not fix this problem. Current plan is to wrap the tube with hvac tape to build up the outer diameter to 3/4"
Not sure which part number of for the 3/4" tube (MOTORCRAFT KH1054 or MOTORCRAFT KH1104). I think it's KH1054.
Thanks all.
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