Electrical gremlins (turn signal/column wiring)

t_chelle16

Keeper of the closet key
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May 8, 2002
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Knob Noster, Mo.
I have a feeling I'm not going to get an answer other than "you'll just have to look it over to see if something not right" or "replace the turn signal switch", but I figured I'd ask anyway.

History:
When I first got Murphy (67 with a Grant wheel & adaptor kit), the turn signal switch had a broken spring so the left signal would over cancel and turn on the right signal when I turned. I'd been meaning to fix it, but I kept putting it off because I didn't want to mess with pulling the wheel.

A few months ago, the nut that holds the wheel on (that big 15/16" one) had worked its way loose (had bad u-joints & lots of vibration) and the steering wheel fell off . . . while I was driving. :rolleyes: Anyway, I figured it would be a good time to swap out the switch/wiring. I happened to already have an extra switch that I'd bought brand new for Sadie (also a 67 but with a stock wheel). I drove Sadie with the new switch for close to a year and didn't have any problems, then I parked her and she'd been sitting for about 3 years. So I pulled the switch out of Sadie, but in the process of getting the wires out of the connectors (have to do that to be able to pull it through the column), I messed up a couple of the metal wire ends (that snap into the connectors). I found some at the Ford dealership, but they came with wires already attached so I had to just splice them onto the ends of the existing wires. I got the switches swapped out and the wires spliced in, but there's a couple minor problems:

1) When I have the turn signal on (either left or right, it does it with both), once the wheel gets to a certain angle, the signal will stop flashing & stay on. Turn the wheel just a little in either direction of that spot, and it starts flashing again. One of the turns I go around when leaving work is at that exact angle and it's just incredibly annoying.

I looked at the switch today and the only thing I can find that seems broken is the little ring in the middle with the nubs that cancel the signal. There's a little spring loaded pin on one of the nubs that's supposed to fit in a little slot on the back of the wheel so that it turns with the wheel:
Not a mustang switch, but it's the best pic I can find on the net that shows it:
turnsigswitch.jpg


On my switch, that pin is a little loose and can get pushed to the side so it isn't entirely in the slot on the wheel. But I don't see how that can be causing the problem. Or if it is somehow causing the problem, I don't see how I can replace just that little part rather than the whole switch ($$$).


Problem #2 - When I turn the car off, if the steering wheel is turned at one specific angle (not the same angle as problem 1), either the tach light (aftermarket tach mounted to the column), or the seatbelt warning light, or both will flash like the turn signals, or the needle on the tach will jump a little like the turn signals (don't think I've ever seen the needle jump at the same time when the lights were flashing). Again, turn the wheel just a little, and it won't do it.

At first, I was thinking that maybe where I'd spliced a couple wires, one had managed to poke out a little and was sticking into one of the wires for the tach or seatbelt light, but I made sure all the wires weren't touching under the dash and it was still doing it. I also looked at my shop manual to see if maybe they were all on the same fuse, but they're not. Unless someone wired up my car completely different than the shop manual, all 3 things are on different fuses.

So, any suggestions (preferrably other than replacing the entire switch again)?

-Chelle
 
Geez, you got some weird indications...

When you routed the new switch wires through the column was there any resistance that may have caused the wires to chafe on the metal? Its possible one is grounding, but you are describing two signal wires intermittently touching.

You said U-joints: You have a tilt wheel?

That loose pin you were describing: Does it move enough to touch any of the signal light switch contacts?
 
Those two pins are for the horn button/contactor. They need to be greased with lubriplate else they make a huge racket and consume themselves.

A new turn signal switch will fix your problem. I have been unable to salvage used ones in the past. If I remember right, the new pieces are under $30.

Good luck.
 
By u-joints, I meant the universal joints on the driveshaft. There was no grease left in them and one of the caps had no bearings left so there was quite a bit of vibration at highway speeds. It's fixed now, though.

The little pin isn't the horn contacts (I see how my circle was a bit misleading). Here's a new pic:
turnsigswitch01.jpg


Does it move enough to touch any of the signal light switch contacts?
I'll have to look again, but I don't think so. I'm pretty sure the turn signal contacts are both underneath the turn signal cam so there's no way it can touch them.

I did have some problems getting the wires down through the column because I made the mistake of splicing the new wire ends on before I installed the new switch which made thicker, stiffer sections. So I guess I could have some bare spots in there.

I kind of had a feeling I'd just end up having to replace the whole switch (the whole thing is about $70). Since it's just more of an annoyance right now, I thihk I'll just wait until I'm ready to rewire the whole car or something really breaks, whichever comes first.

-Chelle
 
In case anyone is curious, the problem magically solved itself. I never could see anything that would be causing either problem so I just put it all back together (and I tested it immediately afterwards and it was still doing it). Then I went to disassembling the interior to fix the floor, install new carpet, paint the dash, etc. The car was off the road for about 2 weeks. When I got it back together and started driving it again, there was no sign of either problem. :shrug:

-Chelle