• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Electrical Electrical ground question

  • Thread starter Thread starter AnthonyA1234
  • Start date Start date Sep 14, 2023

AnthonyA1234

5 Year Member
Aug 17, 2020
671
111
63
Florida
Sep 14, 2023
#1
  • Sep 14, 2023
  • #1
this may be a dumb question but I’m getting my car painted including the engine bay and unscrewed all the engine grounds so that the area can be painted. I’m wondering what I need to do to get the everything grounded properly when I put it back together. Right now from the factory the part of metal that the ground wire touches is painted so is it the threads that does the ground?
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
5,990
4,113
183
Claremore, OK
Sep 14, 2023
#2
  • Sep 14, 2023
  • #2
That is correct. Clean the threads with a tap and you will be good to go.
 
Reactions: AnthonyA1234

AnthonyA1234

5 Year Member
Aug 17, 2020
671
111
63
Florida
Oct 31, 2023
#3
  • Oct 31, 2023
  • #3
AeroCoupe said:
That is correct. Clean the threads with a tap and you will be good to go.
Click to expand...
Got another dumb question for you lol. I’m doing a wire tuck right now and need to make some new grounds. I’ll attach a pic below, it’s the starter solenoid screws and a ground cable. Can I just use self tapping screws to mount them and will that be a good enough ground? Or do I have to grind the chassis down to bare metal?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7330.webp
    589.6 KB · Views: 131

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
5,990
4,113
183
Claremore, OK
Oct 31, 2023
#4
  • Oct 31, 2023
  • #4
I think you already know the answer. The better your ground and 12V+ connections the better the electrical system will work. If you are contemplating using one of the self-tapping screws that will mount the solenoid I would not advise using it unless it is going into metal thicker than a single layer of sheet metal. The connection needs to be tight and secure so think some kind of locking washer so the connection does not back off. I will usually put the ground loop on the bolt or screw last with a flat washer before it and a lock washer between the screw or bolt head and the flat washer. You want the ground wire loop on bare metal so the connection to the body/chassis is as good as it can get. After you tighten the screw or bolt down I would suggest you use something like NO-OX gel to keep the connection from corroding.
 
Reactions: General karthief and AnthonyA1234

AnthonyA1234

5 Year Member
Aug 17, 2020
671
111
63
Florida
Oct 31, 2023
#5
  • Oct 31, 2023
  • #5
AeroCoupe said:
I think you already know the answer. The better your ground and 12V+ connections the better the electrical system will work. If you are contemplating using one of the self-tapping screws that will mount the solenoid I would not advise using it unless it is going into metal thicker than a single layer of sheet metal. The connection needs to be tight and secure so think some kind of locking washer so the connection does not back off. I will usually put the ground loop on the bolt or screw last with a flat washer before it and a lock washer between the screw or bolt head and the flat washer. You want the ground wire loop on bare metal so the connection to the body/chassis is as good as it can get. After you tighten the screw or bolt down I would suggest you use something like NO-OX gel to keep the connection from corroding.
Click to expand...
Ok will do, so after I grind the metal down and hook everything up, I can just apply that gel over the starter solenoid screw areas and the other ground loop and that alone will keep it from rusting?
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
5,990
4,113
183
Claremore, OK
Nov 1, 2023
#6
  • Nov 1, 2023
  • #6
So I have never done anything but screw a starter solenoid down and they have worked for years so I would not worry about those connections. If you are going to use one of the solenoid screws to attach a ground wire then I would be more inclined to use the gel. Depending on how large the ground wire is I switch to a bolt vs a screw for added clamping force. Typically when I get past 12 ga wire is when I make the switch but its just a preference.
 
Reactions: AnthonyA1234

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
Oct 4, 2020
5,477
2,907
173
Florida
Nov 1, 2023
#7
  • Nov 1, 2023
  • #7
You could opt for one of these grounding studs...... I bought one but have not made up my mind where to install it.... I do wish I would have done this when the dash and heater box were out.....

JL Audio Master Ground Lug – CE Auto Electric Supply

ceautoelectricsupply.com
 
Reactions: General karthief

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,267
17,954
224
Massachusetts
Nov 1, 2023
#8
  • Nov 1, 2023
  • #8
The screw into the metal is good enough. Of course, more bare contact area will improve the connection, especially if any rust/corrosion present on the screw and/or threads into the metal.

Look at it this way, each time you make an electrical connection, take your time to make it tight and with the best contact you can make. Doing that work now will help prevent issues down the road
 
Reactions: AnthonyA1234 and General karthief

AnthonyA1234

5 Year Member
Aug 17, 2020
671
111
63
Florida
Nov 1, 2023
#9
  • Nov 1, 2023
  • #9
Thanks guys! I’ll do a Home Depot run today and pick up some hardware and finish up the drivers side tuck today and I’ll hook my engine back up so I can test it out before I start the passenger side tuck. Appreciate the help.
 

evintho

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 12, 2003
683
246
73
Santa Rosa, CA.
Nov 1, 2023
#10
  • Nov 1, 2023
  • #10
A ground bar is the way to go. All ground wires to the ground bar then the bar grounded directly to the frame.



I welded a 1/4" plate to the frame with 2 studs. One for the ground bar and one for the Neg batt cable.

 
Reactions: qikgts, Kid wita 5oh and AeroCoupe

qikgts

Active Member
Nov 12, 2001
117
58
38
FLORIDA
Nov 1, 2023
#11
  • Nov 1, 2023
  • #11
That's a real nice job evintho. Super clean work in both pix!

​

 
Reactions: evintho

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
43,207
21,388
234
Box behind Walmart
Nov 1, 2023
#12
  • Nov 1, 2023
  • #12
I just wanted to add about the grounds:

A little dielectric grease on the threads and mating surfaces with a light coat of bare metal, wipe clean with alcohol or brake cleaner on a rag and then primer/paint over the top but... My engine bay is no where [near] as clean as the one above.
 

AnthonyA1234

5 Year Member
Aug 17, 2020
671
111
63
Florida
Nov 1, 2023
#13
  • Nov 1, 2023
  • #13
Just finished the job and started the car and everything worked like normal.

On a side note, do any of you guys know how to remove the ignition coil plug wires from the plug? I see some tabs on the connecter side of the plug but I tried pushing them and pulling the wires and it didn’t work. I want to remove the plug so I can run the cable through a small hole in the fender apron and then just reconnect the plug after.
 

evintho

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 12, 2003
683
246
73
Santa Rosa, CA.
Nov 2, 2023
#14
  • Nov 2, 2023
  • #14
I had to lengthen the coil wires on my last swap. The easiest way is simply cut the wires a couple inches past the connector, remove the connector then splice them back together. You'll want to splice them together properly though. Those are two critical wires. I took a couple pics on how to correctly crimp and splice. Firstly, use uninsulated butt connectors. Absent that, you can use the cheap colored insulated connectors, just remove the colored insulators.......







Next, fold one side of the connector over the wire and crimp........





Then fold the other side over that and crimp........





Then as a safety precaution, add a dap of solder and wrap it with a single layer of electrical tape (I like Scotch #88)......



Then finalize it with a length of 3/16" shrink tubing.......





Now with just a little bit of effort, you have a professional, quality connection that'll last a lifetime. All the ground wires in my last post were done this way and I've been doing this for years on all my projects. Never had a connection fail!
 
Last edited: Nov 2, 2023
Reactions: General karthief and limp

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
Oct 4, 2020
5,477
2,907
173
Florida
Nov 2, 2023
#15
  • Nov 2, 2023
  • #15
evintho said:
I had to lengthen the coil wires on my last swap. The easiest way is simply cut the wires a couple inches past the connector, remove the connector then splice them back together. You'll want to splice them together properly though. Those are two critical wires. I took a couple pics on how to correctly crimp and splice. Firstly, use uninsulated butt connectors. Absent that, you can use the cheap colored insulated connectors, just remove the colored insulators.......







Next, fold one side of the connector over the wire and crimp........





Then fold the other side over that and crimp........





Then as a safety precaution, add a dap of solder and wrap it with a single layer of electrical tape (I like Scotch #88)......



Then finalize it with a length of 3/16" shrink tubing.......





Now with just a little bit of effort, you have a professional, quality connection that'll last a lifetime. All the ground wires in my last post were done this way and I've been doing this for years on all my projects. Never had a connection fail!
Click to expand...
Just remember to install the shrink wrap before you crimp the connector......
 
Reactions: 91AOD5.0LX, General karthief and evintho
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Electrical/engine bay harness questions
  • djj62478
  • May 29, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
7
Views
302
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jun 6, 2026
djj62478
Electrical 88 EEC Injectors batch firing ?
  • Dustin 86GT
  • Dec 8, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
10
Views
468
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jan 8, 2026
gkomo
New fuel pump relay
  • Scrapla347
  • Nov 3, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
12
Views
946
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Nov 8, 2025
Scrapla347
Resolved Holley terminator integration into CCRM
  • BrandonMP
  • Feb 25, 2026
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
1
Views
280
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Feb 27, 2026
BrandonMP
G
Electrical Smoking Wiring Issue After GT40 Head Swap
  • Grapes
  • Saturday at 12:07 PM
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
13
Views
170
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Sunday at 4:22 PM
2000xp8
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?