electrical problems

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speedy66

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2000

629

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0

glendale,arizona,usa

Jan 31, 2004

#1

• Jan 31, 2004

• #1

Ok.. i have power to starter and and battery is charged.. all grounds are hooked up... But I have no power at all inside the cab. I can bump the starter from the starter relay.. If I put the key in on position and bump it from the outside.. It should start and run... but now power to switch so no staying on..
Guys im stumped.. Brand new motor.. I want to get it running somebody help me!!!!!!!

 

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speedy66

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2000

629

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0

glendale,arizona,usa

Jan 31, 2004

#2

• Jan 31, 2004

• #2

Oh yeah no power to fuse block

 

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GaPonyFarm

New Member

Jan 2, 2004

663

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0

Columbus, GA

Jan 31, 2004

#3

• Jan 31, 2004

• #3

I would guess that you either don't have all the wires properly connected to the solenoid or you may have a grounding problem at the fuse box...

 

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speedy66

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2000

629

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0

glendale,arizona,usa

Jan 31, 2004

#4

• Jan 31, 2004

• #4

I went to the fuse block and checked the wiring all are connected... What was weird was this morning when i went to start it.. it cranked then power shut off. no power back in side.. i put a volt meter on the wires at the back of the fuse block.. no power there at al.. if the voltage regulator is bad.. would that cause this?

 

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GaPonyFarm

New Member

Jan 2, 2004

663

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0

Columbus, GA

Jan 31, 2004

#5

• Jan 31, 2004

• #5

You need to check the integrity of the wiring harness between your fuse box and your solenoid... also make sure you have a good ground to the fuse box itself. It sounds to me like either a bad ground, broken wire, or bad solenoid... its really hard to tell with your descriptions... Are you able to run a wire from the battery to the coil and start the car? Can you start the car by jumping the solenoid? Do you have headlights or brake lights?

Voltage regulators go bad because its just their time to go... no particular reason.

 

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speedy66

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2000

629

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0

glendale,arizona,usa

Jan 31, 2004

#6

• Jan 31, 2004

• #6

no lights period.. inside or out.. never replaced the harness under the dash.. so who knows...

 

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streetgrande69

Founding Member

Nov 2, 2002

976

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16

Splendora, Tx

Jan 31, 2004

#7

• Jan 31, 2004

• #7

i think i might be some help. lets start with the basics. do you have a diagram? if not thats ok.
we're gonna take the first step in trouble shooting. unplug the the firewall plug with 8 prongs. the brown wire from the starter silonoid goes to it. you want to test and see if your getting power to that prong.

if yes its inside and we can work on that. if no, then its in the engine bay and well work on that also..

start there.

let us know

 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member

May 9, 2001

3,959

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Southlake, TX

Jan 31, 2004

#8

• Jan 31, 2004

• #8

with the crack, Im guessing you blew a fuse or something. A hot source came in contact with a ground.

 

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speedy66

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2000

629

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0

glendale,arizona,usa

Feb 1, 2004

#9

• Feb 1, 2004

• #9

I have power coming into the voltage regulator.. I do not have power at the plug in the firewall.. is the voltage regulator bad?

 

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geegee

Founding Member

Oct 21, 2000

2,015

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near Oklahoma City, OK

Feb 2, 2004

#10

• Feb 2, 2004

• #10

speedy66 said:

I have power coming into the voltage regulator.. I do not have power at the plug in the firewall.. is the voltage regulator bad?

Click to expand...

Primary power comes in on a black-yellow wire at the firewall plug. Inside the car, under-dash, power splits up in the harness at a splice. I would disconnect the plug and check for 12 volts at the lighting harness plug (engine side), next to hood hinge. This wire is hot all the time.

If 12 volts here, check the condition of the plug (male/female pins) and make sure they are clean and not deteriorated. If good, reconnect plug and check the following (splice splits three ways):

a. 12 volts at the ignition switch "Yellow" B+ wire. If you can't probe the switch, lance with shirt collar pin and check. This for switched accessories.

b. 12 volts at the headlight switch. Probe the headlight switch connector and verify 12 volts present on the black/orange wire. This for lighting.

c. 12 volts at the fuse block (black-yellow wire). This for fused accessories.