can anyone help me on how to bypass all the emisons such as egr and air pump solenoids so my check engine light will go off.the car never goes into closed loop because of this
If anything, this is a good reason NOT to rip out all the emissions stuff. You gain 0 hp in addition to all the headaches of a car that just won't run right.
What did you remove? And did you run the check engine codes to see what the car doesn't like?
The solenoids on the fender you can just remove that along with the smog pump but don't forget to plug the vacuum lines and H pipe port. You will get codes 44 & 94 but they won't effect driveability or closed loop.
See that's the thing. Everyone thinks ditching it gains hp. You gain maybe 1/2 hp on the smog pump. Everything else doesn't rob power and ditching the egr can make fuel economy worse.
A common theme on the boards is " help, i deleted my emissions stuff and now my car runs poorly"
well i agree you shouldnt just go ripping emissions out. but as many people have ran into it was like this when i purchased the car.. i know for a fact the car never goes into closed loop and there maybe other problems.the car is 92 lx 5 speed..i had and 88gt with a maf conversion with the same setup as this car only difrence was the 92 has a a9l and the 88 had a x32..the 88 ran good so im trying to figure out my situation over the winter
Fix what's broke for now...Find out what the computer says is wrong.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.